Why Mother dogs May Kill Their Puppies

It is a pet owner’s and a dog breeder’s worst nightmare when a mother dog kills her puppies. Whether the killing is purposeful or accidental, the sight of the dead puppy is enough to cause shock and disbelief. This behavior is, unfortunately, not uncommon in the canine world and it actually has a name: *’’infanticide”* But why would a mother dog kill her puppy? There are many reasons, however, some of them are due to the fault of the breeder. Here are the things to consider

Is She Actually Killing Them?

First of all, it is important to recognize that the mother dog may not necessarily be killing the puppies. Unless you actually see her killing them or acting in an abnormal way, it would be unjust to assume she is doing it. It doesn't necessarily mean that the mother dog killed the puppies if you find a puppy dead, many things could have gone wrong.

Normal Puppy and Mother Interaction

Puppies normally nurse and spend 90% of their time sleeping during their first week. During the first week, the mother should exhibit a lively interest in her puppies. She will stimulate them to eliminate by licking their bottoms and ingesting their waste and sometimes in a large liter doing this may prove to be too enormous for her.

One Way to Help

If the dog has a large litter, you can help by getting a cotton ball, wet it with warm water, and gently pass it on the pup’s bottom after they nurse. This is a way you can mimic the mother’s tongue and help the puppies excrete.

Do not use anything other than a cotton ball and be very gentle. Never rub.

Questions to Ask

Is the puppy’s room temperature ideal? It should be around 85 degrees for their first few days and never less than 70°F. This means you will have to use a heat lamp, and possibly, a heating pad. If you have questions about general puppy care and wellness of your puppy you can ask DogExpert on the Subreddit platform https://www.reddit.com/r/AskDogExpert/

Are the puppies actively nursing?
Are they sleeping close to each other?
Is there a puppy staying away from the others and crying more? all these are questions you need to find answers to because they could mean the puppies are not thriving

What Causes Death

There are many medical conditions that can cause puppies to die. Puppy fading syndrome can cause puppies to die from when they are born up until they are 9 weeks old. According to Hilltop Veterinary Hospital, the syndrome might be caused by:

Puppies being too hot or too cold
Mother’s neglect of the puppies by refusing to lie next to them and nurse them
Physical defects of the puppy
Infections
If you notice any abnormal situation please take your dog and litter to your veterinarian.

Preventing Death

Puppies are very vulnerable as newborns. To keep them safe and healthy, your best bet would be to watch the litter closely for the first few weeks and look for puppies nursing and acting normally. You should also, watch the mother’s interactions and take note if there are any abnormal behaviors. Sleep near the litter for the first few days. This way if you hear any muffled cries, you can go to the rescue.

In general, you should always take the mother, along with her puppies, to see a vet 24 hours after giving birth to ensure there are no retained placentas and that the puppies are in good health.

Why Would a mother dog kill her puppies?

When it comes to finding dead puppies, there are some signs of mother intervention that cannot be mistaken. Disappeared or dead puppies with bite marks, missing heads, and other significant injuries may be assumed that the mother killed the pup. 

Accidental Killing

Dogs may at times accidentally kill their puppies by crushing them or smothering them. Not all have the instinct to nose the puppies to the center of the whelping box for safety.

Smothering, crushing, and laying down on the puppies can be prevented by installing railings that help prevent the dogs from accidentally lying on a puppy that may have slipped behind her.

Killing Sick Puppies

Other times, when puppies act sickly or when they have something wrong (which we as owners may not be able to tell), mothers may purposely kill them so they can focus on the healthier ones.

It may start with the mother pushing the puppy away from her. At times, the mother may even eat the puppy. This is not cruelty. It is natural selection and part of the dog’s evolutionary process. If one puppy is sick, it may attract unwanted predators.

Inexperienced or Unstable Mothers

The mother dog may have been bred too young — dogs should never be bred on their first heat — or she may simply not be a stable mother.

In these cases, the mother should be spayed and never be allowed to breed again. As the puppies grow, the mother dog may growl and snap at the puppies that require discipline, but in the first week, puppies are defenseless creatures that depend totally on their mom.

Normally, the mother will bond strongly with them during this time thanks to the “bonding hormone,” oxytocin. When that doesn’t happen, trouble arises.

Stress

Some dogs may kill their puppies if they feel stressed by not having a quiet secluded place for the litter to live. There may be too many people coming to see the litter or the litter may be too big for the dog to handle.

The dam’s stress levels may cause her to do the unthinkable. According to Nicholas Dodman in an article for Petplace, a Rottweiler mother killed her pups after being returned to her from a tail docking. She may have assumed the puppies had been damaged or contaminated in some way, and therefore, their destruction was a way of putting them ‘’out of their misery.”

Lack of Recognition

Some dogs, especially new mothers, might not recognize their offspring as their own. This is especially true for dogs who had a cesarean section. New puppies sound like some prey animals (e.g. rodents.) Some dogs with a rodent-killing heritage might mistake them for prey and might be compelled to eat them.

Problems With Nursing

There is a condition that makes it very painful for a mother to nurse her young (mastitis) The pain might be enough to for her to reject the litter.

Make sure you do your research before breeding your dog, have the mother and litter seen by the vet in the first 24 hrs, and monitor both the mother and the litter carefully for the first few weeks. This should help prevent problems with infanticide.

 

DogData Solutions

PedigreeChian BlockChian Explorer - PedigreeChian BlockChain Explorer runs on the blockchain technology and you can use it to capture your dog's records without the need of a third party. Blockchain technology ensure that records are secured, encapsulated, immutable and accurate. You can use the solution at no cost from any location.

Smart Contract - The Smart contract also runs on the blockchain technology and you can use to go into an agreement and also to enforce the terms and conditions of the agreement.  Your transactions and agreements are stored in blocks and records can not be altered. Furthermore, with the smart contract, you do not need a third party of an escrow agent anymore.

Utility Token - DogData Etherbone utility token can as a discount voucher,  medium of exchange for pet products and services. It has a global use and it can also be traded against other digital currencies. 

 

 

 

Dog Training Tools

A Clicker is a tool used to mark or pinpoint the desired behavior with a clicking noise.

Dog training has its own language and its own set of tools. When your trainer suggests that you get your dog a mat or a crate, or that you work with him on a long line, what is he talking about?

With these handy devices, your dog will be well-mannered in no time.

B

Back clip harness: Harness on which the leash attachment is located over the dog’s back. This type of harness is typically comfortable and easy for a dog to adjust to, but it offers less control over the dog’s movements and can exacerbate pulling.

C

Cavity toys: See food puzzles.

Clicker: Tool used to mark or pinpoint the desired behavior with a clicking noise. There are a variety of clickers, from the standard box clicker, which makes a sudden, sharp noise, to more muted versions (like a ballpoint pen) for dogs that are more sensitive to sound.

Crate, kennel: Box-like shelter for a dog. Crates come in a variety of designs, including hard plastic, wire and soft-sided. Some crates are designed to fold up for easy storage.

D

Dog pen: Dog containment area created with fencings, such as exercise or X-pens or baby gates, in a play pen-like style. Dog pens can be used to prevent destructive behavior or to facilitate potty training. A dog run is an example of an outdoor dog pen.

F

Food puzzle: Toy designed to hold food or chews. The dog removes the food by using his teeth, tongue, paws, and mouth to manipulate the toy. Food puzzles require the dog to work for his food, which provides needed mental and physical stimulation.

Front clip harness: This type of harness has a leash attachment at the center of a dog’s chest. This allows the pet owner to gently control the dog’s movements and can help hinder pulling.

G

Gate: Portable gate or fence that can be used as a barrier to keep a dog confined to a specific area or away from an off-limits space. These may be marketed as baby gates or dog gates.

H

Harness: Alternative to a collar. Like a collar, a harness has a hook for the dog’s leash, as well as a place to put his ID tags. Many trainers believe that a harness is gentler than a collar, especially for small dogs or brachycephalic dogs, who can have their airways more easily damaged by a collar.

Head halter: A walking tool. The head halter consists of two parts: a section that fits around the dog’s neck like a collar and an attached piece that fits over the dog’s nose and wraps around his muzzle. The leash attaches under the dog’s chin area.

Leash

A leash is a fixed length of material with a clip at one end, which attaches to a collar or harness, and a handle at the other end for a person to hold. A fixed-length leash is one that does not expand or retract; commonly, a fixed-length leash is 4- to 6-feet long.

Lure: A stimulus that a dog will willingly follow. Treats are the most commonly used lure, but toys are another useful type of lure.

Long-lasting chews: These are chews that require extensive effort on the dog’s part to eat; they take a long time to consume. Dental chews, such as some of those with C.E.T. enzymes to help break down excess plaque, can fall into this category.

Longline: Leash available in a variety of lengths ranging from 8-feet long to upwards of 40-feet long. A longline allows the dog the freedom of being off-leash while preventing him from running away and can be used for training or play.

Mat: Similar in appearance to a cushion or blanket, a dog mat is a designated place to rest. Mat training teaches the dog to go to a place when he is asked, for example, the dog can be taught to go to his mat, rather than begging at the table during a meal. A mat is portable and can offer a dog a familiar place to rest in unfamiliar surroundings, such as the vet’s office or a friend’s home.

Retractable Leash: Leash with a handheld release that allows it to extend and retract with the movement of a dog. The leash can also be locked at the desired length. Though these are commonly used by pet owners, many pet professionals caution against their use, as they can be hazardous for both the pet owner and the dog.

Target stick: A long wand that can expand or retract as needed, with a ball on one end that the dog is trained to touch with a body part, commonly his mouth or nose. Some target sticks have a built-in clicker. A wooden spoon can be used in place of a target stick.

Tightening harness: Harness with a limited tightening feature, either on the back of the chest, where the leash clips on. The harness will tighten to a fixed degree if the dog pulls, and release when the leash is loose. This can offer the pet owner more control over pulling without causing a sharp pain to the dog, as choke or prong collars can do.

Training pouch, treat pouch: Pouch that holds treats and clips to a belt, pocket or waistband or has a fanny pack-style band that wraps around the waist. Larger training pouches can also hold other necessities, such as keys, a cellphone or waste bags.

Treat Stations: Areas around the home where treats are stored to make rewarding good behavior easier. Treat stations provide an alternative to carrying treats all the time. Concealing the treat containers keeps the dog on his best behavior, as he does not know when or where he might be rewarded.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Home Made Feed preparation for Dogs

Dogs require good and balanced nutrition to thrive. Its helps them for good bone formation, brain development, skin, and fur, good immune, growth, etc The basic requirements are adequate water, fat, carbohydrates, proteins, mineral’s and vitamins, fats, etc. Feeding your dog an appropriate amount of a well-balanced diet is vital to its overall health and well-being. We have taken our time to make research on how to make a home meal diet that meets their nutritional requirements with expert advice from our nutritionist. Items. Millet, sorghum, rice, groundnut, soya beans, chicken flavor, honey, vegetables, oil ( olive oil, groundnut oil, palm oil), sugar, smoked fish. Optional items: Booster premix, sodium, phosphorus and iron (these 3 can be gotten from a feed mill) 1. Millet is high in fiber and protein and rich in B vitamins, (especially niacin, B6 and folic acid), phosphorus, manganese (a trace mineral that acts as an antioxidant), Millet also contains calcium, iron, and zinc. The protein content of millet varies from 5 to 20 percent, with an average of 10 to 12 percent. 2. Sorghum: it has high-complex carbohydrate, and also an excellent source of fiber (primarily insoluble fiber), vitamins B3, B1, and B2, iron, and potassium. 3. Groundnut: It is rich in antioxidants It is a high source of protein, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, zinc, calcium, sodium, etc. And other vitamins 4. Soya beans are an alternative cheap source of protein. Fish( could be crayfish, dried fish, etc) Fish Fish is filled with omega-3 fatty acids and vitamins such as D and B2 (riboflavin). Fish is rich in calcium and phosphorus and a great source of minerals, such as iron, zinc, iodine, magnesium, and potassium. 5. Maize contains Calories, Water, Protein, Carbs, Sugar, Fiber, Fat, Omega-3. 6 Rice contains Sodium, Potassium, Carbohydrate, Dietary fiber, Sugar, Protein, Vitamin C, Calcium, Vitamin D, Vitamin B-6 Magnesium. Preparation: Roast the soya beans and groundnuts to remove the shaft. Then grind together with the other items. Grind the corn and the soya beans first cos they are the hardest Put some cups of water on the fire, and pour some proportion of the items into it and start stirring like ur making pap. For puppies don't make it thick. Let it be watery. But for adolescent and adults, u can make it thick. Add some spoon of milk to it. Add a little palm oil, olive oil and maybe honey. Add a little salt and vegetable. U can get moringa to leave grind it and add. If you have a carrot or other forms of vegetables u can add to. With most dogs, u might introduce the food to them gradually just as you should do when introducing any other new meal. First, two days add 25% of new meal to old meal. Third and fourth day add 50% of new meal to 50% of old meal. 5th and 6th day add 75% of new meal to old meal and then after that you give 100% new meal. On a general note if your dog does not have the appetite to eat you might need to give them multivitamin appetizers to make them hungry. B complex for dogs works fine. Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Teaching your Dog to search or find it and Teaching your Dog to Hug

Training a dog requires time and patience but the benefits outweigh your effort. In the article, we shall be talking about the “Find it command” and the “Hug” command.

“Find it” it is a fun game and command to teach your dog that taps into his natural inclination to sniff.

Most dogs are naturally good at following their noses. They can often track everything from a dead mouse in the compound to a sandwich you left unattended to. This ability to nose out interesting smells can be channeled into a constructive skill with some simple training.

“Find it” can be helpful in a variety of situations. A quick game of “find it” can help nervous or timid canines to relax around new people or in unfamiliar situations, like at the vet’s office. “Find it” can be a way to help your dog channel excess energy or calm himself when greeting visitors. And “find it” can provide important mental stimulation by encouraging your dog to work for his meals and treats, which mimics the hunting his feral ancestors would have done.

“Find it” is a simple and fun game to teach your dog. Here’s how to get him sniffing.

Teach your dog to play “find it” by encouraging his natural talent for sniffing things out. A verbal or physical signal of the start of the game can help your dog know when it’s time to put his nose to the ground and go searching for something interesting.

To start, give the signal or cue “find it!” and immediately toss a desirable treat or favorite toy. Start easy, by tossing the treat or toy in a flat, open area. If your dog doesn’t understand what you’re asking, help him out by pointing at the item or walking toward it to draw his attention to it.

When your dog finds the item, reward him with praise and repeat the process. Give the “find it” cue and toss another treat or toy (or reuse the same toy if your dog returns it to you after he finds it).

Once your dog catches on and begins to associate the “find it” cue with retrieving the tossed item, start to increase the difficulty and make the task more challenging. Rather than one treat, toss several. Or rather than tossing a toy, ask your dog to stay while you hide the toy. You can also toss treats or a toy where your dog cannot see it, like behind a piece of furniture, and let him hunt for it.

“Find it” can be utilized to turn your dog’s mealtimes into a form of enrichment and mental stimulation. Scatter his kibble on the kitchen floor or across an outdoor patio or use a food puzzle to serve your dog’s meal. Both of these options require him to work for his food, which is good mental and physical exercise.

“Find it” can also turn playtime into hide-or-seek: Ask your dog to unearth his toy before engaging in a game of fetch or structured tug. “Find it” can also be a useful way to encourage structured greetings or calm interactions with people: Toss a toy and have your dog find it and bring it to your guests.

Teach your dog to hug

A hug can make you and your dog both feel happy and loved.

It can be hard to resist giving a dog yours or someone’s else a hug. If your dog enjoys being physically close to you, a hug can make you both feel happy and loved.

But not all dots loves to hug. For some dogs, a physical embrace may be perceived as an invasion of personal space or even a physical threat, especially when the hug is instigated by a person without the dog’s consent. This can result in a dog who is stressed or scared and can lead to a growl or even a bite.

Training your dog to hug on cue can give him a predictable way to interact with people, which can help him feel less anxious.

There are two types of hugs you can teach your dog to give. The first involves the dog standing up on his hind legs and resting his front paws on your shoulders, mimicking the chest-to-chest hug shared between two people. This option is good for quick greetings and works best with calm dogs who already know how to keep all four paws on the floor.

The second option involves teaching your dog to rest his head (and potentially his entire body) against you in a full doggy embrace. This is a nice option for dogs who like to be close to people and enjoy snuggling.

You can teach your dog whichever version is best for his and your hugging personality. Some dogs will prefer one type of hug over another, while others will enjoy both options.

The standing hug

If your dog is already the type who greets you by placing his paws on you, training a standing hug is as simple as teaching him to associate this natural behavior with a cue. Big dogs can be taught to place their paws on your shoulders while you stand up, but with smaller dogs, you will need to kneel or sit to enable them to reach up and hug you.

One caution, though: If your dog tends to greet people by jumping on them, you will need to deal with that behavior before you teach your dog to hug on command and you may want to skip the hugging altogether.

For spontaneous canine huggers, simply add a verbal cue, like “hug,” to a naturally occurring hug (for example, when you walk in the door at the end of the day). Say the cue as he begins to reach up to hug you, and then reward him with a treat or praise. Alternatively, pat your legs or shoulders to invite your dog to place his paws up; as he does so, say the cue “hug.” Pair the cue with a reward of praise or a treat to help him associate the word with the reward.

With enough repetitions, your dog will begin to associate the cue (“hug”) with the action of hugging you. The next step is to eliminate spontaneous hugs. Once he’s familiar with the “hug” cue, limit rewards strictly to times when your dog hugs in response to the command. If he gives you an unsolicited embrace, stand still or turn away and ignore him. Eventually, he will learn that he is only rewarded with praise or a treat or a return hug when you give the cue first.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

How To Know When Your Dog is in Pain.

Sometimes our dogs can be in pain but they cant express it to us and am sure none of us can stand to see our beloved pets in pains. Even when our dogs aren’t eaten it affects us emotionally.

Sometimes it can be very difficult to know whether or not ur dog is in pain. But other times its obvious.

There are signs u can look for that might indicate your dog is experiencing pain.

Dogs in pain are more likely to bite so be careful. They could loss appetite as well. Breathing heavy, heart rate, and even appearance can all change when ur dog is experiencing pain.

If you have a good idea of your dog’s “normal” which includes his normal attitude, energy level, gait, appetite, thirst, sleep patterns, and other physical and behavioral patterns then it would help you know when his probably in pains or sick.

When evaluating your dog for potential pain, please take great care to not get yourself (or anyone helping u) bitten. Don’t allow family members and friends go close to him during such times. Even if ur dog would never normally bite anyone, the mere fact that ur evaluating your dog for pain indicates that this may not be a normal time.

Dogs in pain are more likely to bite. This is true even with their owners and other people they know. And it happens more when a person touches or moves the painful area. So once u observe the area of pains avoid touching such spots.

Breathing Changes:
Dogs experiencing pain may have a faster and more shallow breathing pattern than normal. They may also pant.

Heart and Pulse Changes:
Dogs in pain will often have an increased heart/pulse rate. The rate often noticeably speeds up when the painful area is touched or moved.
U can learn how to measure your dogs heart rate at home. Contact a technician to teach u.

Posture Changes:
Dogs who are in pain may assume a very rigid stance, while others may assume the “prayer position” with their front legs on the ground, their butt up in the air, and a stretch throughout their abdomen. Some dogs in pain will lie around more, while others may experience difficulty laying down.

It all depends on the type, location, and severity of the pain.

Eye Changes:
The eyes can be great indicators of pain in dogs. They change both for eye pain itself and for pain elsewhere in the body. Often pain elsewhere in the body will result in larger (dilated) pupils, while pain in the eye(s) can result in either larger or smaller (constricted) pupils.

If their eyes are in pain, the affected eye(s) may also appear bloodshot.

Food and Water Changes:
Dogs in pain often eat and drink less than normal. When they do eat and drink, if the cause of their pain is their teeth or some other part of the mouth, they may drop food and/or water from their mouth.

Energy Level Changes:
Most dogs in pain will have a general decrease in their activity level. This often shows as a dog who sleeps more. It may also manifest as a dog who simply runs and/or jumps less than normal.

Mobility Changes:
Dogs in pain often move around less. However, depending on what hurts, they may still move around the same amount, but do so differently (i.e. with a limp, or more slowly when going up or down the stairs, etc.)

Pooing Changes:
Dogs who have back pain, for any reason, may have difficulty with the posture needed to defecate. So they may struggle to do that.

Body Contour Changes:
If u observe swellings, be they on your dog’s legs, body, or face, could be an indication of a painful condition, such as infection, inflammation or others.

It’s important to speak with or see your vet any time ur dog is in pain, or if u think they may be.

For dogs suffering from arthritis fish oil which has anti inflammatory properties can help.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Why Dogs chew themselves

Its okey for dogs to occasionally chew on their body such as feet, ears, rails and the rest. They do that to groom themselves and also to alleviate irritating areas of their body. This behavior is typical when humans scratch their bodies.
However if you notice that that your dog constantly chew on his body then it could be a sign of problem. Watch closely to observe if the chewed area becomes inflamed, red, furless or even injured. There are lots of factors that may cause your dog to chew on themselves constantly and if you don’t tackle the issue it would definitely result in other complication. The factors are reasons why your dog may excessively chew on themselves.
Dry Skin – Dry skin can be caused as a result of too frequent bathing. When you bath dogs too frequently it can cause the natural oils on their skin to dry off. So avoid bathing your dogs too frequently. Once in 2 weeks is fine or when they become smelly or dirty. Dry skin can also be caused as a result of dehydration, malnutrition (Lack of fatty acids), Cold weather, or hot and dry weather. When your dog’s skin becomes dry they would start it would start irritating them. Your dog may begin to chew on himself as a way to relieve itching dry skin.
Ticks, fleas and other parasites – parasitic infestation has the potential to cause your dog dry skin. You should do all you can to keep your pets free of ticks, fleas, worms and other dangerous parasite. Use tick and flea products on them, keep their environments neat and deworm them regularly.
Allergies – There are lots of factors that can cause allergies in dog. Dogs can be allergic to food, dust, smoke and lots more. Allergies can make your dogs skin to be greasy. Pesticides and insecticides also has the potential to cause allergy in dog and in fact such items are poisonous to dogs. Therefore you should ensure your dogs do not come close to such items. Certain type of human product such as soap also has the potential to cause allergies in dogs. You should consider changes to the environment or diet if you experience allergic reaction in your dogs.
Skin infections – Just the way skin infection affect humans that how it also affects dogs. Your dog’s skin can become dry if infected with a skin disease. Nutritional imbalances, thyroid hormones and dirt’s can make your dogs have skin infection. For bacterial infection you can observe it by looking at your dog’s body carefully. If you discover tiny red bums on the skin of your dog then you should know it is a bacterial infection. Your dogs can also suffer from fungal infections, and in this case their skin can become oily and greasy.

Pain, Aches and Soreness
If your dog steps on a sharp object, of hit his body hard against some walls then they can feel pain which in return can cause them to chew on that area. Thorns, sharp pieces of glass and other objects that are stuck in their body can also cause irritation and make them chew on themselves. Another source of pains in dogs Is arthritis and dogs react to it. Some may start chewing on the affected part excessively.
Psychological reasons – Just like humans dogs develop Psychological problems. Dogs require constant companionship, stimulation and attention in other to be mentally balanced. When they becomes lonely and bored the can develop unwanted behaviors such as constant chewing of themselves. You must find ways to keep your dog’s mentally stable always. Give them attention, socialize them and give them toys to play with in order to overcome Psychological issues

Final notes.
To identify the reasons for constant chewing is pretty easy to identify in dogs. Endeavour to always keep a close eye on them and try to resolve chewing issues before it escalates. If you can’t determine the cause of chewing then have a Vet examine your dog and give them medication or care to resolve it. A stitch in time saves 9 so always play the active role of a responsible dog owner and keep your dogs in the best possible physical and mental conditions

Blockchain in Dog Data

This is a brief demonstration on how Blockchain Technology will be implemented in DogData
platform and all records created in Blockchain with unique Hash key generation for each
record so that the records cannot be tampered. Also the records will be displayed with
Graphical User Interface (GUI) in both website and Mobile App. The Blocks will be generated
once the record is created either through website or through mobile app. For getting the
information to store in the Blockchain, we will be using REST API. Rest API is a front end
technology that is implemented to display the records in the mobile app (Dog Registration,
Vaccination Record...etc that is created in the backend). It will just display the skeleton of the
records, so we will be working on the UI part to make it user friendly.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Breed Standards Lhasa Apso vs 2019 

The lhasa apso dogs were local to Tibet in China with very long cold seasons and very short hot season. They were found inside monasteries with Lamas serving as a burglary alarm for any intruder that escaped the watch of the external guide dogs the Tibetan mastiff.  The monasteries were usually placed on sloppy hills very high above sea level, with low oxygen concentration and extreme cold.

If the lhasa apso needed to survive carrying out their duties as burglary alarm, they needed to evolve the long coat to stay warm during the cold times in Tibet, but shed during the short warm times. They also needed to evolve a deep and lengthy chest with extra pair of ribs to accommodate greater volume of lung tissues to be able to breath in more air. They also needed to be lengthy in stature and closer to the ground, this would ensure their center of gravity was stable on a steep slope. Although the lhasa apso are known to shed slowly and continuously like humans; having extreme weather in Tibet where they originate from, they had to evolve a lengthy hair. Same with all the animals found in Tibet China, they usually come with long coats, and the humans there usually wear very hairy coat to keep themselves warm.

In 1933, the very first lhasa apso arrived in the USA gifted to C Suydam Cutting and it was added as a breed in 1935 into the AKC. Since then, the typical appearance of the lhasa apso brought into the USA has been established as its standard conformation.

Nowadays lhasas apso are found in different areas of the world having different climates, different cultures, different altitudes and different terrain. It has become no longer necessary for them to have very lengthy double coated hair to protect against extreme cold. Places close to the equator such as the tropics have higher temperature which would not be suited for a full length double coated dog like the lhasa apso. It is apparent that this particular conformation that is one of the standards is definitely not ideal for a lhasa apso, as it can cause overheating in such a dog.

Nowadays people who keep lhasa apso do not keep them to be watch dogs so it should no longer be a requirement for lhasa apso to be sturdy. A lot of people who acquire the lhasa apso do not live in high altitude with low oxygen concentration in the atmosphere, therefore a deep chest with greater lung tissue volume isn't required anymore as the oxygen concentration at sea level is sufficient enough for a normal chest. The implication of having a deeper and lengthy chest is the risk of hyperventilation which can cause respiratory alkalosis. Respiratory alkalosis occurs when CO2 is breathe out too fast, causing an imbalance in the acid base homeostasis of the body. It's noteworthy that not everyone live in a sloppy terrain, therefore a lower point of gravity isn't required for a dog living in an area with lower slopes.

Most people who get a lhasa apso do so for companionship now. They need a dog they can place on their laps and relax with. They are hardly ever looking for a burglary alarm to notify them of any intruder. This points clearly shows that sturdiness isn't necessarily needed in a lhasa apso, as our modern society tends to be in the laid back spectrum of physical activity.

Having enlisted the above points, I hope I have been able to convince you of how the current standard conformation of lhasa apso is not necessarily ideal for the modern society.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

House Training your Dogs and Submissive Urination

The most important house training rule is to avoid accidents!

To house train a dog we are relying on the fact that dogs are fairly particular about where they "go" and build strong habits. It is very important to prevent accidents, because every time he relieves himself in the house, he is building a preference for this area.

Every time your dog potties inside, blame YOURSELF (but please be forgiving)! Until your dog has learned where to go potty, he should be under constant surveillance (with his leash tied to your belt if possible or on your lap), in his crate, or tethered on a comfy mat (tether should be used only under supervision).

The crate should be just big enough for him to stand up, turn around and lay down in. If your dog is having accidents in the crate, make sure it isn't too big and remove absorbent bedding.

When you are inside and he is out of her crate, keep him tethered to your waist and watch him constantly for sniffing or circling. Take him out immediately when you see this behavior.

Set a timer to go off every hour (this time can be increased as you progress) so that you don't forget to take him out before nature calls. If he doesn't relieve himself when you take him out and it's been a few hours, take him back in for 15 minutes (under your closest supervision or crated) and then try bringing him back out again. If he does "go", wait until he is completely finished before praising, feeding a treat and having a little play time together.

Stick to a strict schedule:

You should take your dog or puppy out many times during the day, especially after eating, playing or sleeping. Feed 2-3 times per day and leave the food down for about 15 minutes per feeding. Your dog can generally "hold it" for its age in months + 1 hr, but no longer than about 8 hours as an adult. The more often you bring your dog outside in the beginning the better because you will minimize the chances for mistakes and give your dog more opportunities for you to reward him for doing what you want. Water can remain down until about 8:00 at night.

Be consistent and keep it simple:

Until he is reliably house trained, bring him to the same spot each time, and leave a bit of his waste there. Use this spot only as a potty area, and not for play. Bring him there on leash and say something like "hurry up" when you see him getting ready. As he goes, say nothing so as not to distract him, but when he finishes praise or click, give him a tasty treat and spend 5 minutes playing outside away from the potty area. If he doesn't go, return to the house, put him in his crate and wait 15 minutes before trying again.

"But, what if he goes in the house?

Hit yourself on the head with a rolled up newspaper! If you see your dog relieving itself in the wrong spot, bring him quickly outside and praise him for finishing there. If you find a mess, clean it very well (without him watching you) using an appropriate cleaner. Another helpful tool once your dog is 90% trained is a dog diaper or male dog wrap. I know this sounds a bit odd, but it can be a really helpful way to prevent messy accidents especially when out visiting with your dog. The dog diaper or male wrap will prevent your dog from soiling the area (and making it more attractive to future accidents) and also is somewhat unpleasant for the dog so it can help to disco.urage accidents. Of course, this is not in itself a solution, but it can be a help.

Training a dog to overcome submissive Urination

The common advice regarding submissive wetting is to ignore your dog by looking away or not approaching him and to hope that he or she grows out of it. There are some other tips which mostly involve managing the problem such as making sure they have pottied recently and to make a point to say hello to your dog on an easy to clean surface. Male wrap (for male dogs) or dog diapers can help to contain the urine and can be especially useful if you are having many guests over.

The traditional advice or ignore, manage and hope usually does work fine. It's true that most dogs do grow out of submissive urination by about one year of age, but, some would not. So, for those adult dogs and if you prefer not to have to wait months and months for your puppy to get over the submissive peeing, read on!

Keep some treats by the door and when you come home feed your dog treats for sitting politely. Once he is able to do that fairly calmly and without peeing, before feeding a treat, you should lean over him just a tiny bit before feeding the treat. The next step after he is able to accomplish that without an accident is to lean and bend towards him before feeding the treat. Continue to progress like that in small steps and over several days until you can bend and pet your dog and even talk in an excited voice while he sits calmly and happily waits for a treat.

If your dog does start to urinate because you have pushed on a little faster than your dog can manage, simply turn away from him. Do not scold as it will only make the problem worse as he tries harder to submit to you in future greetings. Just chalk it up to experience and resolve to go slower next time. If your dog begins to urinate even as you approach, you can start by tossing treats to him from a distance or try standing sideways.

I bet you'll find that this solution is surprisingly easy and effective.

To perfect your dog's dry greetings, you will need to practice feeding him treats for sitting calmly in some different situations such as for greeting different people and in other locations.

This technique works because it gets the dog's mind off of "greeting" and onto something else like sitting for a treat.

Happy training to you and your dog!

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Feeding Your Dog During Pregnancy

It very important to make sure your pregnant bitch is getting everything she needs. Eaten right would make sure both babies and mum remain healthy. It would also help her recover after whelping.

Pregnant mothers needs extra boost especially if she's carrying large litter. That is one of the reason why you need to take her for a scan during pregnancy so you can have an estimate of the number of expected litter. In other to meet up her protein and energy demands its best if you feed her Puppy feed.

Feeding her high quality puppy feed would help her during and after pregnancy greatly. Good milk formation, healthy puppies.

Puppy food is richer in key nutrients and provides more energy than adult-formula food. It’s easily digestible also and easier to chew giving her less stress. These are all important things to think about when feeding pregnant bitches.

If you can't afford feeding puppy formulas from start of pregnancy then start around week 6. It will help her to stay strong, and also passes nutrients to her puppies through her milk.

Your dog should be introduced to her new food in stages any way. 

Giving her time to adjust would allow her tummy time to adjust. Start to introduce the puppy food into her usual formula, a little bit at a time, over the course of about a week, until the formulas have been completely swapped over. A simple thing to do is to add 25% new meal to 75 old meal for two days, then 50% new meal to 50% old meal another two days. 75% new meal to 25% old meal for another two days and then 100% new meal. This would help her to adjust smoothly and also help her against upset stomach.

Make sure she has easy access to plenty of fresh, clean drinking water so she can stay hydrated, especially if she’s on a dry-food formula during pregnancy.

It’s best to feed your pregnant bitch little and often, especially in the later stages of pregnancy, as a tummy full of puppies will mean she won’t have much room for food.

When feeding pregnant dogs, give them their usual portion sizes for the first few weeks of pregnancy. During these early stages, your bitch may go off her food or experience a little nausea and vomiting, similar to our humans having morning sickness

Start to increase her food intake, bit by bit, from around week five of her pregnancy. Gradually increase the portion size a little more each week, so that by week nine her meal size is about a third more than normal. By this time, mum’s weight should have increased by about 25%, or more if she is expecting a large litter.

Use controlled, measured portions to stop her overeating and becoming obese, as this can cause problems during pregnancy and labour.

Overweight in dogs can cause difficulties during labour such as stress which might in turn make her abandon her puppies after whelping.

It is important not to supplement her feed with calcium and bones during pregnancy. If you must supplement with any other vitamins it has to be prescribed by your vet.

Managing nutrition and the bitch’s bodyweight before, during and after pregnancy is critical to the health of her and her puppies. Malnutrition due to inadequate nutrient intake can lead to abortions or stillbirths. Excessive feeding can lead to obesity increasing the risk of dystocia and prolonged labour as i said earlier.

Importance of feeding during lactation:

Successful lactation requires good nutrition before breeding and throughout pregnancy. During lactation, energy requirements increase and are directly proportional to milk production, which in turn is directly related to the number of feeding puppies.

The food fed to the bitch during lactation should be nutrient dense and highly digestible. After whelping, the bitch’s energy requirements steadily increase and peaks between three to five weeks. This peak is two to four times higher than the bitch’s normal energy requirements. The energy requirements return to maintenance levels at about eight weeks after whelping, corresponding with the timing of weaning.

The requirement for protein increases more than the requirement for energy in the lactating bitch. Therefore the food selected needs to be high in digestible protein.

During pregnancy do not give calcium supplement like i said earlier but during lactation you should. Calcium requirements increase to two to five times normal during peak lactation.

In summary.

Feed your pregnant and nursing bitch a food that is highly digestible and is high in nutrients e.g Puppy feed.

Do not increase her food No food until 42 days of pregnancy.

After week six of gestation food increase by approximately 10% a week is necessary.

During the late stage of pregnancy you should geed her 25% -50% more food

Avoid overfeeding gestating bitches. Excessive weight gain can be detrimental to the bitch and/or the puppies.

Provide several small meals per day during the latter stage of pregnancy, and during lactation. This is particularly important for bitches with large litters.

Always ensure clean, fresh water is available.

Lactating bitches have significantly increased energy and nutrient requirem

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Grooming The Eye Region of A Dog 

The goal is to keep your pup's facial hair trimmed back out of his eyes and to be able to do so without either of you becoming stressed out. It is an important task that can protect the health of his eyes.

As you know, the eye region of a dog or human is very delicate. There are many dog breeds with hair that seems to be constantly growing into their eyes. There are several very good reasons you shouldn’t let this facial hair become too long. This hair grows from above and below, which can hinder their eyesight, and rub their eyes and cause irritation and damage.

Depending on your dog, this may also cause excessive tearing and staining to occur. Thankfully, we DogData have developed this article that can enable you practice and with a little patience, you can learn to keep your dogs facial hair trimmed back out of his eyes.

Chances are good that your pup is not going to be delighted to have a pair of scissors and your hands right up in his eyes.

Most dogs don't like having anything close to their eyes. Just like humans, we flinch too when someone sticks something close to our eyes. The best way to get him used to this is to start very slowly, introducing him to the scissors before you try to groom around his eyes with them.

Method one is The Brush and Trim Method

Start by gently brushing the hair around your pup's eyes upwards and outwards. This will make a big difference when it comes to trimming his facial hair in a straight line. It will also help to remove any dirt or tangles that might be in his hair. Take your time and be gentle, as anything else will only make him face shy and make it harder for you to trim this hair back.

After that you introduce scissors. Show your pup the scissors and give him a moment to get used them being around his face. Try gently laying them on his snout just below his eyes and letting them rest there for a few seconds with your hand on top of his head near his eyes. Giving him time to relax and get used to their presence will make it much easier when the time comes to trimming this hair.

Trim a neat straight line starting on one side of his face going over the top of his nose and ending in at the other side. Take a break and give your pup a treat. Grooming him in stages like this at the start will help your pup get used to being groomed and allow him to be calmer.

When he relaxes after his treat, he will let you know he is ready for you to trim the bottom hair out of the way. If at any time you are not happy with the line you cut, give your pup a moment and trim it up.

Be sure to give him lots of praise and treats the whole time and in time he will let you groom around his eyes without fussing.

The Walk First Method

In this method you go for a walk first

Start by taking your dog for a walk. Not only does this give him time to take care of business, it will tire him out a bit and help to calm him down. At the same time, this will make it less likely for him to wiggle around when you are trying to groom around his eyes. In fact, try and make it a very long walk or a rigorous excerise, the more tired your pup is, the more relaxed he is likely to be.

When you return from the walk, With one hand, cover your pup's eyes from below the fringe you need to cut. Not only will this help to keep him calmed down (what he can't see won't hurt him), it will also give you a nice straight line to trim along. Be sure you are using safety scissors (the ones with no points on the end) to cut the hair or you risk injuring your pup or maybe even stabbing yourself.

Using your fingers as a guide, fluff the hair up. This will help lift the hair to where it easier for you to safely cut. It also helps to give you a much straighter line when you make the cut. Be careful, take your time. As long as your pup's eyes are covered he should remain calm. If he starts to struggle, stop and take a break. Give him a treat, praise him and give him a few minutes to calm back down before continuing.

Cleaning up the eyebrows

Now it's time to clean up his eyebrows, as they can get in his eyes at the same time. Using a forefinger, hold the eye you are working on closed. Use the palm of the same hand to hold the other eye closed while you work. Carefully trim his eyebrows, by pulling them out gently. Do a little bit at a time and use your finger as a guideline.

Cruising along the bottom

If your pup has hair growing up from the bottom of the eyes, use one hand to cover his eyes while you trim this hair as well. This part shouldn’t take too long but, by now your pup is probably getting fidgety. So, finish up and give him treats and praise for a job well done. After the two of you have done this together a few times, he should be very comfortable when you groom around his eyes.

Caution & Considerations

Anytime you are using a pair of scissors around your dog's eyes, there is a high risk of injury if your pup decides to jerk his head.

If he won't hold still, you may have to use a slightly firmer grip. However, this might just be an indication you need to take more time getting him used to having scissors around his eyes.

Be sure that you use safety scissors for this job, never use scissors with pointed ends as they can seriously injure your pup.

Do have plenty of treats on hand, and a comb or brush to help brush out the hair around his face.

Take your time. Not only will this help to keep him calm, but it will also help make the finished job look much better.

If your dog tends to be wound up and easily excited, talk to your vet. He may recommend using a mild sedative to help calm him down. These medications will not harm your pup, but they will make it much easier for you to groom around his eyes.

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Anxiety in Dogs

Dogs suffer from anxiety which leafs to several behavioral issues. Your dog can suddenly become aggressive, destructive. There are steps you can take to help your dog live without been anxious.

What Causes Dog Anxiety?

Fear,
Separation,
Aging, etc

Fear  anxiety can be caused by loud noises, strange people or animals, new or strange environments, specific situations like the vet’s office becouse the dog knows he would be injected. Car rides can also cause anxiety in dogs.

Dogs with separation anxiety are unable to find comfort when they are left alone or separated from their family members. This anxiety often manifests itself in undesirable behaviors, such as urinating and defecating in the house, destroying furniture and furnishings, and barking. When you lock or chain up a dog it can also cause anxiety.

Age-related anxiety affects older dogs and can be associated with cognitive dysfunction syndrome (CDS). In dogs with CDS, memory, learning, perception, and awareness start to decline, similar to the early stages of Alzheimer's disease in humans. This understandably leads to anxiety in senior dogs.

Symptoms of Anxiety

So how can you tell if your dog has anxiety? Look out for sudden
Aggression,
Urinating or defecating in the house,
Drooling,
Panting,
Destructive behavior,
Depression,
Excessive barking,
Pacing,
Restlessness,
Repetitive or compulsive behaviors

By far the most dangerous symptom of dog anxiety is aggression. This aggression can be targeted directly or indirectly, depending on the situation. Direct aggression occurs when a dog acts aggressively toward people or other animals.

Indirect aggression can be equally dangerous, and often happens when a person comes between the dog and the source of the dog’s aggression, such as another dog. Even if a dog is prevented from harming others, aggressive behaviors such as growling or barking can lead to dangerous situations for humans and dogs.

Urinating and defecating in the house is a common symptom of separation anxiety. Anxious dogs often work themselves up to the point that they pee or poop in the house, even if they are housebroken. This is frustrating for owners and can cause damage to property, not to mention the unpleasantness of the cleanup.

Destructive behavior is also common with separation anxiety. The damage is usually located around entry and exit points, like doorways and windows, but dogs in a state of heightened anxiety are also at risk of harming themselves.

Attempts to break out of dog crates or cage, windows, and even doors can result in painful injuries and expensive vet treatments.

Treating Dog Anxiety

The best way to treat anxiety is to know the cause and  talk with a vet. They can help you identify the type of anxiety your dog suffers from and the possible causes and triggers hats if you cant tell.

Vets can also rule out any other medical conditions that could be causing ur dog’s symptoms of anxiety.

Since anxiety is often caused by a variety of factors, the best way to treat it is usually through a combination of training, preventative strategies, and in some cases, medications.

You can train your dog to get used to the things that makes him anxious and also desensitize him. You should slowly introduce the dog to the source of anxiety, preferably in small doses and at a decreased intensity. Repeated exposure and rewarding positive behavior can go a long way toward managing anxiety.

Anxiety Medications for Dogs:

Some cases of anxiety are so severe that ur vet may recommend medications or natural therapies. antidepressants are occasionally prescribed for dogs with anxiety. anxiety-producing events like thunderstorms, fireworks, or car rides, your vet might can also provide some medication like an antidepressant to help your dog cope with the stress.

Preventing Dog Anxiety

It is hard to predict if a dog will develop anxiety, but there are ways to help a new dog or puppy avoid anxiety-related problems.

One of the best things you can do is learn to read dog body language. Knowing when your dog is uncomfortable or scared can help you avoid negative experiences or use them as a positive training moment.

Body language can also tell you when a dog is getting anxious, which is useful if your dog has a history of aggression-related anxiety.

Proper socialization can prevent the development of anxiety. Introducing your dog to new people, dogs, animals, places, sounds and experiences can help them avoid an exaggerated response down the road.

Obedience training is an essential tool for preventing and managing anxiety. It lays the foundation of a healthy relationship and establishes trust. A well-trained dog is easier to socialize than a dog without training.

Exercise and Nutrition

Regular exercise and stimulation are crucial for a dog’s development, physical, and mental well-being. A stimulated dog is less likely to pick up destructive behaviors, and good nutrition is equally important for your dog's health. Make sure u allow your dog play everyday.

If your dog has been diagnosed with anxiety, you can also try to avoid or prevent situations that trigger your dog’s anxiety. 

If the source of the anxiety cannot be avoided, preventative measures like leashes, body harnesses, and, in some cases, basket muzzles can prevent dangerous situations. Once you know your dog's triggers, you can prepare for these situations ahead of time.

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Dog Atopic Dermatitis

Atopic dermatitis is known as environmental allergies in dogs and is a major cause of chronic itching.

It is caused by an allergic reaction or hypersensitivity to some substances in the environment.

Just the way some humans can be allergic to smoke and dust and suffer from asthma dogs as well can be allergic to substances including foods.

Dogs with atopic dermatitis are usually itchy, with their face or their feet is always irritated

Sometimes even their skin can be reddened. Sometimes some part of their skin can be moist, or damaged due to excessive scratching or biting.

The ears may also be inflamed, and recurrent ear infections and wounds are quite common in dogs with dermatitis.

Other signs may include runny eyes or nose. It is important to seek vet care when u observe this with your dogs

Why does dermatitis develop?

Its caused by a combination of factors. Both genetics and environmental contributes

The condition is caused by an inappropriate immune reaction to the allergens, rather than by the allergens themselves just like in humans. Some persons can be exposed to smoke and dust but for others it might trigger asthma attack.

Many allergens are airborne and found nearly everywhere. Some are present year-round (such as housedust, dust mites, and some molds) while others are found at high levels only at some times during the year

Dermatitis in dogs is caused primarily by exposure to these allergens through the skin, but breathing them in can also result in signs.

The diagnosis is based on your observations of your dog and on your vets physical examination.  parasites and food can also cause this.

Blood allergy testing and other form of test is used to determine the substances your dogs could be allergic to. Blood testing attempts to measure antibody levels that your dog has formed against particular allergens.

How is atopic dermatitis treated?

Atopic dermatitis can be treated in many different ways. Limiting your dogs exposure to his allergens is ideal, but not usually practical as it may mean relocating to a different climate.  Other treatments are usually necessary. These include:

Immunotherapy:
A series of injections made from allergens that your dog is sensitive to can be given to induce “tolerance” to these substances. When these substances are then encountered in the environment, your dog should be much less sensitive to them.

Anti-inflammatory medications are usually helpful to reduce itching in your dog. Since each dog is very much an individual, some dogs need a trial with different drugs to find one that works best. Fatty acid supplements may also be helpful for mildly affected dogs or in conjunction with other treatments.

Topical therapy:
Medicated shampoos and conditioners can bring relief to many dogs. Bathing removes the allergens that are adhering to the surface of the skin, and the medicated ingredients also help to reduce itching and control secondary infections. Using lukewarm water for these medicated baths also helps cool the skin to further reduce itching. And also destroys ticks and fleas that maybe causing these allergies on your dog.

Antibacterial and antifungal medications:
Because dogs with atopic dermatitis are prone to recurrent bacterial and yeast infections of the skin and ears, your vet may need to address these infections in addition to treating the atopic dermatitis.

Medications used in such treatments might include antibiotics and or antifungals drugs. Your may also use topical therapy with antibacterial and antifungal shampoos, which can also help resolve and prevent these bacterial and yeast infections.

It is also very important for any dog with atopic dermatitis to be on a year-round, comprehensive flea control program.

Atopic dogs tend to be more sensitive to the bites of fleas, so even occasional flea bites should be prevented. Keep your environment and your dogs always major.

 

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Brucellosis In Dogs

There are many risk associated with mating of dogs and as a responsible breeder you shoulder not skip testing.

Let me talk about one of the risk  Brucellosis.

This is a dangerous Disease

Brucellosis is a contagious disease caused by the bacterium Brucella canis. It is a major cause of infertility in dogs. It can also be transmitted from dogs to humans.

In dogs, one of the sign of brucellosis is abortion during pregnancy. Other signs include stillbirths, inability to conceive. Sometimes infected dogs may not show any symptoms.

symptoms in humans vary. They range from infertility or serious cardiac or neurological problems. Etc

In dogs, the bacteria tend to attack the reproductive organs but can also migrate to the eyes, spinal column, liver, spleen, and lymph nodes.

The main mode of transmission of brucellosis is by direct contact with infected body fluids, such as semen, vaginal secretions, and urine.

Brucellosis affects female and male dogs in specific ways:

Females: Symptom in the female dog is infertility, with 75 percent of cases resulting in late-term abortion (45–55 days of gestation). And then inability to conceive.

Males: In the early phase of infection, the testes will be enlarged and painful. As the infection progresses, the testes become firm and shrunken. Infected males will become sterile due to testicular damage causing anti-sperm antibody formation.
Infected males may also develop prostatitis (inflammation of the prostate gland), with symptoms of difficulty urinating and defecating.

Non-reproductive symptoms in both sexes can include lethargy, weight loss, and exercise intolerance.

This is a disease is zoonotic disease.(its a dieses capable of spreading from animals to humans)

Before you pay for stud service make sure his tested at least annually, and bitches must be tested prior to each breeding.

Most human cases of brucellosis are caused by consuming unpasteurized dairy products or undercooked meat, it is possible for humans to get this disease from dogs also. People who have had direct contact with an aborted litter can be infected.

If you love your dogs and do not want your efforts to be wasted please act responsibly.

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Overweight and Obesity in dogs

As a responsible dog owner you should get a weighing scale at home and make sure to check the weight of ur dog regularly. You should endeavour to know the standard weight of the breed you have so u can tell when it’s overweight and obese

Owners often incorrectly believe their overweight dogs are at a healthy weight.

The formula for reducing weight in dogs is is to  decrease in the calories consumed and an increase in activity.

Obesity is wen dogs who are at least 30% heavier than what their normal weight should be.
Excess weight on dogs worsen their arthritis and slow them down. Have you seen a baby outrun a full grown dog? 😁. It an have  significant financial and medical implications in the event of an emergency or illness as well.

These are some of the health issues that overweight could cause in dogs.

Pancreatitis: Meaning inflammation of the pancreas. this disease often results in decreased energy and appetite, with concurrent vomiting and diarrhea. While pancreatitis can be fairly mild, it can also be much more severe and can be fatal (due to the triggering of a body-wide inflammatory cascade set off by the pancreatic inflammation). We have talked about this in previous articles. Giving your dogs too much fat can also cause pancreatitis.

Heat Stroke: Bcos of both the insulating properties of their excess fat and the additional strain such excess weight puts on their joints, overweight and obese dogs are at increased risk of developing this debilitating, expensive, and (often) fatal emergency condition.

Diabetes:  This condition typically require life-long management and frequent monitoring at your vet, but it also carries with it the additional risks of a severe metabolic emergency condition called diabetic ketoacidosis, recurrent urinary tract infections etc.

Others: Excessive weight and obesity also predisposes a dog to recurrent skin and urinary tract infections, worsens the pain associated with arthritis and other orthopedic conditions, and increases the likelihood that a dog with a pre-existing respiratory or heart condition will suffer an emergency related to their condition.

How can you tell if your dog is at his ideal body weight?

You can use a combination of your dogs weight and individual body condition score (BCS) to determine if your dog is overweight, underweight, or  right.You should look primarily at the waist, ribs, and any fat deposits on the back or near the base of the tail.

When you view your dogs waist from the back his abdomen should tuck up as it approaches the back legs. When viewed from above, there should be a clear delineation between the back half and the front.  The waist and the abdomen should not be on same level.

You should be able to feel the ribs easily, without having to press through too thick a layer of fat. If there is excessive fat cover over the ribs, your dog is overweight.

Your dogs back should not be perfectly flat, and there shouldn't be a large fat pad along their sides or near the base of their tail. 

Weight loss in dogs is typically far easier than losing weight ourselves.  This is bcos we control what they eat. I would give you some tips to help you achieve weight loss in your dogs.

You have to reduce your dogs calorie intake and increase his  activity level (and his caloric burn).

Treats are typically the single biggest source of excess calories that most overweight dogs consume on a daily basis. You should reduce it and probably reduce the number of times you feed.

Don't feed your pet table scraps

Decrease the quantity of food you are feeding your dog or, if necessary, change the type of food you are feeding them if they contain too much calories. Feeding a higher protein and lower carbohydrate diet can help with achieving weight loss.

Increase the number of calories your dog burns each day. Increase your dogs level of daily exercise - start slow and gradually increase.

You can take them for longer or more frequent walks, or you can throw a ball for them more frequently for them to chase.  

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How to become a Dog show Judge

In order to become a dog Judge you have to learn first rudiments.

Who is a dog judge and what's the career like?

A dog judge is also known as a dog show judge and refers to one that is qualified to access and evaluate dogs at shows or a conformation show. These shows can have various judges especially when its a big show but in smaller shows there can just be a single judge.

A judge must be vast and the judgment must not be subjective preference rather it has to be done based on breed standards which unfortunately were created more than a 100 years ago and clearly obsolete or outdated.

These judges have to be extremely familiar with a particular breed standard or a number of breed standards. You must be able to properly analyse the standard of the dog to ascertain his or her qualities. Sometimes judges can put their hands on the dogs to feel their bones and other structures looking for faults.

Dogs deserve better than this outdated breed standard. Time have changed  environment and climate which all affects dogs is changing so why would the standard remain after more than a 100 years? Take for example the American Kennel Club (AKC) values arbitrary physical traits over health and well-being and that is why the AKC recognise the slant back gsd (Show line) than the straight back (Working line).

Take a look at the dachshunds again. They have a very long spine and short legs that makes them susceptible to extreme pains

What about the Great Danes that are bred for long necks and large heads and often develop wobbler syndrome and sometimes end up paralysed.

Cavalier King Charles spaniels is another breed who suffer from syringomyelia. Sometimes they scream in agony because their brains are too large for their unnaturally flattened skulls.

Finally what about the English bulldogs, who are bred to have flat faces. They labour to fetch objects, they find it difficult breathing, they even suffer to whelp and end up in C section 90% of the time. These dogs and others such as pugs, French bulldogs, lhasa Apso suffer what is known as brachycephalic airway syndrome

To ensure that these breed standard traits remain in a dog’s bloodline, breeders make mothers to mate with sons and daughters with fathers (in breeding). The consequences have been dire. Inbreeding increases the likelihood that recessive genes will be passed down to puppies, resulting in a host of serious congenital defects including epilepsy, hypothyroidism and elbow dysplasia, a disease that can cause lameness and arthritis. Don't you think these breed standards should be changed? In another article i would talk about this in-depth.

To become a judge you have to get licensed. You  can get it in two ways which is either through a kennel club or a particular breed association. As a judge you are expected to study.

You could apply to be a single breed judge or multiple breed judge. When you are eventually granted to judge multiple breed then you are known as a group judge.

There is also another category of judge known as an All rounder. This is a judge granted license to judge all recognised breeds.

Let me give you a general overview of what it takes to be a judge.

1. You must apply for  eligibility requirement. By age you must be at least 20 and above with most organisations.

2. Most organisation would require you to be a member of a kennel club or other organisations for some time.

3. Some organisation would require you to have lived in that countries for a particular number of years

4. Some organisation would usually require that you have a minimum number of years as a breeder (between 5 and 10 years) and it must be documented

5. You must have experience with pedigree and pure breed dogs, your experience must be in handling, breeding etc

6. As an applicant you must have a mentor that's already a judge with most organizations

7. An applicant must have a sound background in the breed or breeds for which the applicant is

applying, and documented experience in the sport, (breeding, showing, club membership, official positions, etc.).

8. As a potential judge you must be physically and mentally fit. You must have Ring Stewarding.

9. An applicant must pass a written and oral examination

The license to be a judge specifies the different breeds over which the judge is qualified to officiate or judge and like i said earlier you can be licensed as a single breed judge or multiple breed judge.

Usually Judges are most commonly licensed specifically to the registry with which they are affiliated to but some registries can choose to recognize licensed judges from other renowned registries and organizations.

Sometimes when judges are skilled enough they can be called upon by organisations of other countries to judge.

 

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British Bull Dog and their Breed Standard requirements

Talking about breed standards it is important to note that these standards have been created hundreds of years ago and Clubs like the American Kennel Club and United Kennel club do claim to preserve the breed standards of bulldog but these standards are old and outdated.

The purpose of breed standards a according to them is to
1. Give and educate breeders on a specific set of guidelines to adopt while breeding to enable them maintain quality

2. To enable judges during dog shows trace faults

3. To enable breeders avoid detrimental traits in the health and welfare of the dog.

Before we take a look at the standards lets look at a brief history.

The British bulldog was bred for bull-baiting which was officially banned in England the year 1835. After the cruel sports was banned the bulldog started to evolve and became shorter and thicker. These dogs have lots of wrinkles, muzzle and they are of the Mastiff origin. Originally these dog were first breed to make easy the work of butchers. These dogs pinned down bulls while the butcher would slaughter them. They had a lot of weight and energy to carry out these tasks. After that they started using them for bull baiting sports which was cruel. Sometimes later they started using these dogs for fighting competition with other animals including dogs and their fellow Bulldogs. Right now these cruel sports are outlawed and they are used as companions because of their loving, calm and obedient temperament. They are also used in shows.

These dogs have a long association with British culture and they're them as a national icon. They symbolise determination.

In the US they are the fourth most popular dog  breed. The Labrador Retriever is number one. They are hefty and muscular with a very wrinkled face and their nose are pushed in which is an obvious fault.
The AkC and Ukc  oversee breeding records of these dogs as earlier mentioned.

They live for about 8-12 years.

The males weigh 50–55 lb (23–25 kg) while the females weigh 40–50 lb (18–23 kg)

They come in Brindle, solid white, red, fawn or yellow colours and their litter size  ranges from 3-7 years.

What are their physical Traits?

These dogs are medium sized dogs with a very thick body and short coat. Their body is thick and heavy. They are lager around the shoulders than the hind regions. This is one standard that makes most males unable to mount the females during breeding and they end up doing Artificial Insemination. These attributes also make them unable to whelp and end up in C Section.
When you view them from above they have a pear shape.

Their heads is very large and not proportionate to their body. This is also a factor that make them unable to whelp naturally because the head cannot fit into the birth canal of the bitch. They are powerful, athletic and stable in nature.
 
The physical characteristics is a little bit different for the females when compared to the males. Judges take note of that during shows.

Behavioral Characteristics

These dogs are kind, calm, confident, courageous and resolute.

Breed standard of the head

These dogs have a very massive head that is not proportionate to their body.
The head is broad and squared. The head appears high and moderately short from the occiput to the point of the nose. The forehead is flat, never rounded or domed; and never too prominent nor overhanging the face. Thus flat head makes these dogs have breathing issue. Among all breeds the British bulldog have the highest number of death while in flight

They have a well-defined temple (frontal bones) are broad, square and high, causing a deep furrow that extends from the stop to the middle of the skull. The stop is a deep, wide indentation between the eyes. They have well-rounded cheeks that protrude sideways and outward beyond the eyes.

Breed standard of the Skull

The skull is large in circumference, and appears high from the corner of the lower jaw to the apex of the skull.

The muzzle

They have a short face and  is measured from the front of the cheekbone to the tip of the nose. The muzzle is turned slightly upward and is very deep from the corner of the eye to the corner of the mouth. Tbia short fave makes them have breathing issues just like Pugs, Lhasa Apso etc

They have a very broad jaw that's also squared.

A serious fault they have in the face is the wry mouth and short face.

Breed standard of the Teeth.

Their teeth's are large strong and white as you would expect. They have a serious fault in their teeth which needs to be eliminated. Their teeth and tongues are showing even when their mouth is closed.

Breed standard of the eyes

They have a very dark eyes which are round and moderate in size.

When they look forward directly directly, the lids cover the white of the eyeball.
When viewed from the front, the eyes are situated low down in the skull well away from the ears. They are set in the front of the head and are wide apart but with their outer corners within the outline of the cheek, when viewed from the front. The eyes and the stop are set in the same straight line. Their is a visible haw white part of the eyes that shows and the excessive amount of loosed skin around the eyes needs to be eliminated as it can cause infection

Breed standard of the nose.

They have a large nose that's broad and black. Its tip is set back deeply between the eyes. The wide, large nostrils are open. Nose roll does not protrude over the nostrils, constricting breathing. These nose structure is a serious fault that needs to be eliminated. It prevents them from breathing properly.

Breed standard of the ears.

The front inner edge of each ear joins the outline of the skull at the top back corner of the skull, placing them wide apart and well away from the eyes.

Breed standard of the neck

They have a short thick neck that is deep, strong, and well-arched. The skin is moderately loose, thick and wrinkled, forming a dewlap on each side from the lower jaw to the chest.

Breed standard of the forequarters

The shoulders are very broad and muscular. They are widespread providing stability and great power.

Breed standard of the body

The body should be moderately short and well knit, with stout limbs, well-muscled, and in hard condition, with no tendency toward obesity. The brisket and body are very capacious, and the chest is very deep and well let down between the front legs. Forechest is prominent. The body is well ribbed up behind the forelegs, and the ribs are well rounded. The back is short and strong, wide behind the shoulders and comparatively narrower at the loin. The topline is a distinguishing characteristic of this breed.

There is a slight fall off behind the shoulders to the beginning of the back, which is the lowest part of the entire topline. It then rises to the loin, which is higher than the shoulders. The croup then curves downward to the set on of the tail, creating the arch that is distinctive to the breed. The belly is tucked up. When viewed from above, the English Bulldog’s outline should resemble a pear shape.

Breed standard of the tail

The short tail is set low, and has a thick root, a decided downward carriage and a fine tip. It may be straight or "screwed," but never curved or curly. A straight tail is cylindrical and is tapered uniformly. A screw tail has well-defined bends or kinks that may be abrupt or even knotty, but no portion of the tail may be elevated above the base or root. Absent, inverted or extremely tight tails should be heavily penalized.

Bulldogs have very small nasal cavities which make them have great difficulty keeping their bodies cool or regulating their body temperature.

They are sensitive to heat and cannot strive in temperate regions.

They need a lot of shade and water, and must be kept out of standing heat or direct sunlight.

Their houses needs to be air conditioned and well ventilated.

The breed standard of these dogs makes them obviously deformed and its appealing that the clubs in charge of these dogs have not done anything to change some of the outdated standard or requirements

Bulldogs are brachycephalic and all of them suffer of this situation. Its health problem caused by the abnormally short face which is unfortunately required of the breed.

Most times they can't even run around without gasping for breath. Many struggle to breathe in hot or humid weather and needs to be kept in air conditioned houses

English Bulldogs are also deformed orthopedically. Their abnormal build is a structural defect called chondrodysplasia, which stunts their leg growth and lengthens their back, which predisposes them to bone and joint problems. And like i said earlier this physical defects makes the males unable to mount the female and they end up in Artificial insemination.

The English Bulldog has the highest incidence of hip dysplasia (72%) of all breeds. Elbow dysplasia is nearly as bad, with 35% dysplastic. Luxating patella (loose knees) occurs at a 4% rate. And intervertebral disk disease.

Bulldogs are prone to chronic allergies that cause itchy skin and scratching that can lead to skin infections (hot spots). The folds and wrinkles in their skin trap dirt and moisture, leading to bacterial and yeast infections. As an owner you have to regularly clean the folds so they wont contact infections.

Hereditary heart diseases is common with these dogs, multiple eye diseases, urinary diseases, thyroid disease, tumors and cancers.

Unfortunately, health testing doesn't change the underlying abnormal structure of the breed, which is what causes so many of the health problems in bulldogs.

These health problems can be prevented if these outdated breed standards can be changed.

Do the English Bulldogs and other breeds deserve these health challenges as a result of these outdated breed standard that was created over a hundred years ago? The answer is No

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Training your Puppy on taking treats gently, stop Nipping and biting.

Some puppies do not know how to take treats gently and maybe bite while taking items from your hands. The danger in working on this is if your dog doesn't get the treat right away, she may get more frustrated and grab harder for it the next time.

If you use the technique  described, to avoid getting your dog frustrated you will want to start with feeding him the treat for all but the most rough grabs (say one in 5) and then gradually start getting pickier as he improves.

This will go faster if you feed him kibble by hand (no tricks required) using the following technique:

Get his food bowl with kibble in it. Hold out a piece of kibble in a way that you can keep it if he bites down hard. If he mouths hard say "ouch" and put the kibble back in the bowl and put the bowl up for a minute or two. Repeat Repeat Repeat. Make sure you are not doing the ouch routine for more than 1 in 5 times of offering the kibble. Begin to get more and more sensitive (making sure that e gets the treat 4 out of 5 times still). Once he is doing great for this, try working on it in other contexts.

While you are working on this with his food bowl, I suggest that for training and other times you feed treats, deliver the treat in a way that will just avoid the possibility of him mouthing you hard (toss it perhaps) until you are getting progress with his meal.

Biting and Nipping

You Want to teach your puppy to stop biting you? Puppies nip to play, to get attention and because they are teething. The good news is that almost puppies grow out of nipping naturally. It is very important to avoid getting frustrated and resorting to punishments / corrections which could damage your relationship down the road.

It is also important to teach your puppy how delicate human skin is, so let him experiment a bit and to give him feedback (say "yipe!" and remove your attention) when your puppy bites too hard. If you get more and more sensitive to nips he will soon find that humans are very sensitive and respond accordingly with her teeth.

Puppy nipping is a very easy to stop because we KNOW what the pup wants - to play and chew! So, give him lots of available chew toys and then whenever he nips, walk away from him and ignore him (if he follows nipping at your heels you need to use a tie back, time out or gate). And when he's gentle stay and play. Don't forget: This too will pass!

PREVENT

Always have a toy in your hand to play with your puppy so he can make a correct choice (unless you are doing the practice in #2).Exercise your puppy to get rid of excess energy (1 hour per day).Make sure your puppy is getting enough rest (12 hours per day).Have lots of great chew toys around to get him through teething (frozen wet rags, frozen raw marrow bones).

Don't leave kids and dogs unattended. Teach kids not to run and scream from nipping puppies but to quietly walk away or stop moving. Use a tie-back (only under supervision), gate or time-out area more frequently as a management tool if the above is not working. Sometimes bitter spray on clothing can help ease nipping at clothing and shoes.

TEACH

Tie your puppy back or put him in a room with a gate that you can quickly climb over or open. Begin playing with him. Praise him for being gentle, but when he nips say "yipe" (like a puppy would) and quickly walk away. Wait 1 minute. Return and give him another try.

Practice in 2-3 minute sessions with each family member taking a turn.The tie-back method also works well for other attention getting behaviors such as jumping up, barking and humping.

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How To Teach Your Dog to look and to Turn.  

In this article we shall talking about how to teach your dog to look and to turn.

"Look" is a useful command for helping your dog acclimate to a new situation or environment.

Is your dog easily distracted? Does he spend your entire walk lunging at squirrels and barking at people? Is he unable to to pass a brightly colored umbrella or a playing child without wanting to investigate?

If your dog’s curiosity is slowing down your walks, there’s a solution. Training your dog to “look” on command can help keep him focused on where he’s going without missing any of the excitement that’s happening around him.

Training your dog to look in the direction of something novel, interesting or possibly even slightly unnerving may sound nonsensical. Why draw your dog’s attention to something that may excite or even upset him? When you teach your dog to “look,” you also train him to return his attention to you. This can help to make novel situations more predictable and give your dog a way to focus and avoid overreacting to something that might be scary or stressful — or just super exciting — for him.

Look Over There!

Hold an object your dog will be interested in — like a chew toy or a ball — behind your back, where your dog cannot see it. A toy with a squeaker or rattle can be helpful for catching your dog’s attention. You can also wiggle or wave the toy gently to catch his eye.

Ask your dog to look at you; once he is making eye contact, pull the hidden item out and hold it out to your side, away from where your dog is looking. Immediately mark and reward any glance or movement your dog makes in the direction of the object.

When you reward him, give the treat in such a way that your dog has to turn back toward you (and away from the exciting toy) to get his reward. To do this, hold the treat directly in front of your legs, at the level of the dog’s nose. This helps to reinforce the idea of looking at something and then shifting attention back to you, which is exactly what you’re trying to teach him.


Next, add a verbal cue “look” to the behavior. Say the word just as your dog starts to turn his head in the direction of the item. You can also watch your dog’s body language and note when he’s getting ready to turn toward the object. Eventually, you want to be able to use the “look” cue to point out interesting things before your dog sees them for himself.

Teach your dog to turn around

To teach your dog how to turn on command, start by holding a lure like a treat or a toy near his nose.

It's worthwhile to teach him some practical tricks, like how to turn on command. "Turn" can be useful in a variety of situations everything from changing direction on a walk to steering clear of a dangerous or problematic situation.

Once your dog can heel and has been taught to consistently walk on either your right or left side, you can introduce “turn.”

Teach your dog to turn

To encourage your dog to turn, use a favorite treat or toy as a lure. Hold the lure down low near your dog’s nose on the side the dog’s walking on. If your dog is tall enough, you can hold the lure in your hand. For smaller dogs, a spreadable soft treat on the end of a long serving spoon will enable you to walk upright and still hold the lure near your dog’s nose.

Introduce the idea of the turn by giving a verbal cue “turn” and immediately move the lure in the direction you want the dog to go. Simultaneously, move your own body into the turn to keep the dog in a consistent location next to your side. This teaches your dog to follow your lead and turn in the same direction as you do.

During initial training, treat your dog for each small increment of the turn. As your dog starts to understand what you are asking him to do, increase the distance between treats, eventually rewarding him only when he has made the full turn.

Keep in mind that a left turn, a right turn and a 180-degree turn will need to be practiced separately, as the logistics of each will vary. For instance, if you are turning left with a dog who heels on the left, use the lure to guide your dog to pivot in place as you move around him to make the turn. If you are turning right with a dog who heels left, you will need to reverse this process: While you pivot in place, use the lure to lead your dog through the turn.

Fade the lure, add distractions

As your dog begins to master the turn, work on fading the lure. Give the signal  “turn” and reward any sign of the dog moving with you. Once your dog responds to the command and turns, reward him with a treat from your pocket or a treat pouch. The goal is for your dog to synchronize his movement to yours when he hears the verbal cue.

Start by training in a low-distraction area, like your living room. As your dog begins to get the hang of the turn, move to more distraction-filled areas like your yard or the sidewalk in front of your home. Eventually you can start to practice the “turn” command on walks through the neighborhood. Continue to praise your dog and to reinforce occasionally with treats this helps teach your dog to respond reliably to the cue, because he never knows when he may get a treat.

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Benefits of playing with your dog

Physical exercise is good for your dogs health, it keeps his appetite up, helps promote healthy hearth, joints, mental stability etc

We all know that physical exercise is important for our dogs, but we often overlook the importance of mental exercise. Interactive games like tug or fetch might seem like a simple way to keep your dog busy, but they also provide a lot of mental stimulation for your dog.

Since games rely on some basic rules such as “you need to bring the frisbee back if you want to keep playing” they give your dog a chance to make their own decisions and help them build focus. Adding in a few quick games to your dogs routine is a way to ensure your dog gets a nice mental workout each day.

It’s Good Physical Exercise For You & Your Dog

Dogs require regular exercise, and using play is one of the funnest ways to make sure your dog has a chance to release all that pent up energy. And since playing with your dog requires you to get involved it means both of you will be getting in more physical activity.

And when it comes to playing with your dog for physical exercise don’t worry; I’m not suggesting a 3 hour marathon game of tug of war. Just a couple of extra 5 – 10 minute sessions of play can make a huge difference. Games like frisbee or playing with a flirt pole are physically demanding, so if you add those into your regular exercise routine (which includes the daily walk) you can make sure your dog is getting plenty of exercise each day.

Play is a Fun Way to Relieve Stress

Playing with your dog is fun, and as far as stress reliever’s go it’s a really simple way to improve both you and your dog’s overall mood. Spending time with your dog can have a calming effect, and some studies have found that it can help alleviate symptoms of anxiety and depression. Adding in a couple of quick 5 minute play sessions with your dog each day can have a big effect on both you and your dog’s overall mood.

Playing With Your Dog Strengthens Your Bond

One of the greatest things about playing with your dog is how much it strengthens your bond. Spending quality time with your dog is one of the best ways to strengthen that bond, and when it comes to dogs play time is one of their favorite ways to pass the time. You’re not just providing them with fun when you engage them in play; you’re giving them a routine and reinforcing the idea that you are the bringer of all things fun and that goes a long way when it comes to speeding up the bonding process.

Play Can Decrease Problem Behaviors in Dogs

Dogs who engage in regular play are less likely to develop problem behaviors such as excessive barking and chewing. The reason being is that dogs get bored, and when your dog gets bored chances are they’ll find their own ways to entertain themselves, and that boredom is what leads to things like chewed up shoes.

When you regularly play with your dog you’re keeping them busy and engaged, reducing the chance that they’ll go off on their own to find their own entertainment.

It Can Improve Your Social Life

And last but not least playing with your dog can improve your social life. Whether it’s going to the park to play a game of fetch or taking your dog to the neighborhood playground, chances are you and your dog will meet some new people along the way.

Your dog will benefit from brushing up on their social skills, and so will you. Being a pet owner was the third most common way that people said they met people in their neighborhoods, and that pet owners were 60% more likely to get to know people in their neighborhood that they didn’t know before.

What Are Your Dog’s Favorite Games?

What games does your dog enjoy most? Do you carve out time each day for a couple of quick play sessions? Does your dog seem more relaxed after play? You should be able to figure out what your dog love most and always make him happy and stimulated.

 

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Clicker Training

If you are an ardent reader of dog's training methods, you’ve Mabee heard of the clicker method in dogs training. 

The clicker method is the association of positive feeling with the sound of a clicker. 

It makes use of classical conditioning , Pavlov’s method associating tasty treats with the sound of a clicker.

 

Importantly there's a right way to let your dog associate the clicker with something positive ;

 

1)

Go to sit or stand by your dog.
 

2)

Make a click sound either with a clicker or with your mouth or with your fingers

 

3)

Immediately give your dog a tasty treat every time you make the specific clicker sound(you must be very consistent and specific with the sound, so pick a sound and stick to it.)
 

4)

Do this several times everyday for 7 days, until you are sure you dog gets excited and salivate everytime you make the clicker sound, because she would be anticipating a tasty treat.
 

5)

You have to repeat this clicker sounds at unexpected times, situation and places, so that your dog understands that the clicker sound means the same positive thing anytime anywhere and anyhow.

 

 

What's the importance of clicker sound training ?

 

• You can instantly reward your dog for good behavior anytime they do something you want them to do. Or anytime they do as they are instructed. It's not all the time you will have a treat handy anytime your dog does something good.
  
  •

You can reward your dog from a distance, where giving treats isn't feasible. Example for working dogs, that do agility training. You cannot give your dog a treat for every hurdle they jump while running when you signal for a jump 🤷🏾‍♂... But you can instantly click reward them for every jump they get right 😉👍🏾 without having to stop the agility training to reward with a treat.

 

Note: It's important that you keep reinforcing the classical conditioning of the clicker, so that the dog keeps associating the click with something positive, anytime you are free with your dog. You do this by making the clicker sound and giving treats several times during the day. That way, the clicker will retain it's positive meaning to the dog.
 

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Help for Dogs with excessive barking

Barking is a completely natural behavior for dogs, but we humans don’t always appreciate it. Sometimes it disturbs our sleep and worries the neighborhood.

But dogs think they have a good reason to bark, so the first thing to do is figure out why he wants to bark in what you consider the most inappropriate time.

Does he bark at night, morning or afternoon without any potential intruder? Try to find out why.

Some dogs bark while their owner or who they regard as the leader of the park is not around.

If you aren’t home while the barking is going on, you may need to stage a scenario over the weekend to find out. Pretend that you are leaving and then come back to spy on the dog.

What is Your Dog Barking at?

Does he bark at every movement he sees?  There's an easy fix for this is to simply block the view. Confine the dog inside the house or pen. He won’t bark at what he does not see.

If he barks at things like the sound of lizards or bird's play some music or the television, loud enough to cover outside noises.

And If the dog seems to be barking at nothing, he’s likely bored. Boredom, due to lack of exercise and mental stimulation, is probably the biggest reason for excessive barking. Dogs need to be exercised and they need lots of space and toys else they might resort to barking excessively.

Think honestly about whether your dog is getting enough exercise and play. How would you feel if you were locked up at home all day with no cell phone, tablet, computer or even television or radio? Think if you don't even av a book to read. You’d get bored pretty fast and in no time depression might set in.  When a dog is locked up it can make him go insane and bcome excessively aggressive.

A young, energetic dog needs lots of exercise and attention from you especially during adolescent age. Thirty minutes to an hour of vigorous exercise in the morning will go a long way toward helping your dog settle down.

You may need to also exercise your dog in the afternoon or evening but avoid doing it excessively. 

You should give your dog food, puzzle toys, hollow rubber toys, that can be stuffed with treats are great entertainment for dogs. You can also leave bone toys for your dogs. Give your dog something fun to do while you are gone.

Try to have varieties of different toys to Keep every day while you are away, busy or sleeping.

Does your dog bark for attention? Don’t give him any! None at all, even stern reprimands count as attention for him. If you tell a dogs to be quite he might but he has still gotten the attention. And then other times he would still bark.

Rather if your dog is calm you reward him for that with a treat and not when his barking.

Here’s How to Teach Your Dog a Cue To Stop Barking:

Have some high value treats ready. They should be  small and soft so they can be eaten quickly. While the dog is barking, just wait for him to stop. When he does stop, wait a beat, praise, and give him a treat.

Gradually increase the time he must be quiet before rewarding him with a treat. If he starts barking, take a few steps backward and make the duration less. Once he seems to be understanding, add a word like Freedom quiet, and be consistent with this.

It is unreasonable to expect your dog to never bark as barking is the way they communicate with the world, but you can teach him some control.

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Covid 19 Dogs, Humans and Being Careful

As a way of promoting dog and human welfare DogData has put together this article to help you get detailed information about the novel coronavirus. We believe that a healthy dog parent can take better care of his dogs so ensuring pet owners and their dogs are healthy is our priority at DogData.

In as much as you are thinking of preventing yourself and others from contacting coronavirus you should also consider your dogs. You should know that coronavirus can be transmitted from you to your dogs. It can also be transmitted from pets to humans although there is no strong evidence of this. But generally you should avoid kissing your dogs and take other measures that can keep your pets safe. Dogs sniff and lick surfaces a lot therefore it is important to disinfect their premises always

 

What do we know about Coronavirus in DogData?

Convid-19 is a member of the coronavirus family tree that made its way from animals to humans in 2019. The disease started in the city of Wuhan in China and its transition to humans have been very rapid, Recorded cases of coronavirus has topped 150,000 in china alone and 464000 globally with over 20000 deaths. The motality rate of the coronavirus is known to be significantly higher than other illness and without a very good containment measures the disease has the potential to infect a whole country. Currently it has spread to more than 100 countries around the world.

 

How can I stop myself, others and pets from getting infected?

In other not to transmit it to your pets you must ensure you adopt the necessary measures not to contact it. The chances of spreading to your dogs becomes significantly higher when you contact it. Avoid handshakes and wash your hands regularly including when you get home and the office. In the absence of water you can use hand sanitizers. Avoid taking your hands close to your face and do not use your hands to cover your mouth or nose while you cough or sneeze. You should also avoid sneezing close to your dogs and also avoid touching their face. Cough into a tissue and dispose used tissue immediately. Avoid large crowds and stay away from people who are exhibiting the symptoms.

 

How can you tell the difference between Convid-19 and a Flue?

Coronovirus has similar symptoms to that of a flue so how do you tell the difference? Sometimes it is even difficult for medical doctors to tell the difference between these two illnesses because the symptoms overlap greatly. The similarity in symptom is one of the reason that contributed to the wild spread of coronavirus in Italy and other countries where people thought the initial symptoms were flue but happened to be Conronavirus.

 

The symptoms in dogs is also very similar with other illnesses. One of the ealiest symptoms in dogs is diarrhea which is also associated with lots of other type of illnesses.

Coronavirus symptoms in humans typically begins with high fever, muscle ashes, sore throat, headache, runny or stuffy nose, shivers, fatigue and in some cases diarrhea and vomiting. Some of these symptoms are common in flue so it is important to go for a checkup when you experience one or more symptoms and avoid getting in close proximity with your dogs and other family members.

 

Coronavirus facts

The worldhealth organization has put the mortality rate of coronavirus at 3.4%. We at DogData have made our research and we know there are many more cases that do not go to the hospital which can bring the mortality rate down or higher. We also know that deaths are higher with the elderly or those already with other form of illnesses.

 

Can you get infected on public transport?

Yes you and your pets can get it in public transport system or other crowded places but most of the infections occur in families where people live and interact very closely with one another. This is why dogs are at risk of contacting the disease as well. They love hugging us and generally coming close to us. Therefore infected humans can easily transmit it to their pets. It is also possible to pick up the virus when you place your hands where an infected person has placed their hands. The virus can survive on surfaces for 48 to 72 hours on surfaces such as rails, seats, tables and lots more. This is why you need to regularly wash or sanitize your hands and avoid touching your face or your dogs face to prevent the virus going to your eyes, mouth and nose.

Is there a cure for Covid-19?

At the moment there is no cure for coronavirus. Some drugs are been used in china while the US and other countries are trying other forms of drugs. However large numbers are needed to confirm if the drugs actually work for all coronavirus cases, or just for some set of people or do not work at all. However the most hopeful drugs among all is the Kaletra. It is a combination of remdesivir and anti-HIV drugs. Some doctors in China are also trying an anti malarial drugs called Chloroquine. There has been a lot of efforts to develop an effective vaccine and a number of countries are already testing it on animals.

 

How does it affect dog?

In dogs coronavirus usually produces only mild gastroenteritis. This is an intestinine dieses that  destroys the mature enterocytes lining of the intestinal villi. It causes diarrhea, malabsorption and indigestion. Lately deaths due to canine Coronavirus has been on the increase. This is because there are many cases of diarrhea in dogs so most owners do not suspect coronavirus when diarrhea occurs in their dogs. It is important for dog owners to immediately isolate their dogs once they experience diarrhea and see a vet immediately. Coronavirus suspicion would be confirmed only in the lab. Medics can use electron microscope to view the virus. Other symptoms of coronavirus in dogs includes lethargy, anorexia, vomiting dehydration etc.

Prevention and treatments in dogs

It is important to avoid taking your dogs to crowded places or potentially contaminated environments. Use disinfectants in your dogs environments. Thoroughly wash your dogs environments with Alchohols, or use other disinfectants. Ensure you clean up their poops immediately because viral shedding is very high in the poop of dogs. There is currently no vaccine to treat the virus and the best way is to avoid exposing your dogs to potentially infected places. Do the following

• Prevent your dogs from going close to people who are sick.
• Avoid touching your dogs eyes, nose and mouth.  
• Do not go close to your dog when you are sick.
• Cover your cough or sneeze with a tissue, then throw the tissue in the trash where your dogs cannot get to.
• Frequently clean and disinfect your dogs environment

 

Myths about Coronavirus

 

Cold weather and snow CANNOT kill the new coronavirus.

Some people think that cold and snow can kill coronavirus but this is not true. Whether cold or snow the normal human body temperature remains around 36.5°C to 37°C, regardless of the external weather or temperature. This also applies with your dogs.

 

Taking a hot bath does not prevent the new coronavirus disease

Taking a hot bath will not prevent you from catching COVID-19. This is not true and like we said before your normal body temperature remains around 36.5°C to 37°C, regardless of the temperature of your bath or shower. You should know that, taking a hot bath with extremely hot water can be dangerous for you. Avoid bathing your dogs with hot water as well.

Coronavirus cannot be transmitted through goods manufactured in Coronovirus hit countries.

It is very unlikely that coronavirus can be transmitted to you after been moved from one country to another. While on transit the virus passes through different weather conditions and temperatures and it is unlikely that the virus would survive. If you suspect any contaminated item please disinfect them.

 

 The new coronavirus CANNOT be transmitted through mosquito bites.

There is no information that coronavirus can be transmitted through mosquito bites. The virus is a respiratory disease and transmits mostly through saliva, sneeze, and cough.

 

Are hand dryers effective in killing the new coronavirus?

Exposing your hands to hand dryers cannot kill the virus. You should sanitize or wash your hands and forget about the idea that hand dryers can kill the virus.

 

 Can spraying alcohol or chlorine all over your body or your dogs body kill the new coronavirus?

No it cannot kill viruses that have already entered your dogs body or yours. Alcohol is toxic to dogs so you should avoid exposing your dogs to alcohol. However you should be aware that alcohol can be used to disinfect surfaces.

 

Can pets at home spread the new coronavirus (2019-nCoV)?

An infected dog can spread the virus to you through saliva although there is no strong evidence to this. Therefore you should always wash or sanitize your hands after touching your pets. Washing your hands can also protect you against other viruses such as salmonella and e.colli

 

 

 

 

 

 

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Blockchain and Crypto mass adoption

You may have heard the term Blockchain if you have been following the banking sector, Telecom, cryptocurrency, investment and other industrial sectors. You may have also heard about Bitcoin and you should know Blockchain is the technology used in keeping records for Bitcoin and other digital currencies. Blockchain is a distributed, decentralized and public ledger technology that has brought revolution to the way records are kept and how businesses are transacted. It is not governed by any single individual or government and offers so much security and flexibility for people and industries today. Most people think Blockchain is complex but it is very easy to understand.

What is Blockchain technology?

It’s called Blockchain but does not imply the literal meaning of blocks and chain rather it is about digital information (The Block) which is stored in a public database (Chain). They are made of digital pieces of information’s

Block stores information about transactions such as dollar amount, date, time, your most recent purchase such as items bought on Amazon, DogData and so on. The block also stores all the information about the parties involved in the transaction. It doesn’t store your actual name; rather it uses unique digital identifier. No two identifiers can be same no matter the number of people using Blockchain technology and it uses special algorithms to achieve that. Furthermore, a single block can store thousands of information and a Blockchain consists of thousands of multiple blocks strung together.

 

How does Blockchain work?

In other for a block to be added in a blockchain there must be a transaction.  A single block would group thousands of transactions so that all your purchases would be packaged in a single block along with other Blockchain users transactions. Every transaction that occurs in a Blockchain must be verified. This verification is done with other public database records such as security exchange commission, your local library, Wikipedia and lots more. In Blockchain technologies no one vets new data entry; rather it uses a wide range of computer networks to carry out the verification. Once your transaction is verified and accurate, the record would be stored in a block and the block would be giving a hash. The hash is a unique identifier code for every record. When the hash has been given, it would add the block and then enable the public to view the record. As an example if you take a look at the Blockchain for Bitcoin you would realize that you can view any record or transactional information.

 

Is Blockchain technology Private?

No Blockchain is public and any one can use it and also view records. Users can easily connect their laptops or devices to the Blockchain technology as nodes. Once there is an update in the Blockchain the PC would receive a copy of the Blockchain automatically just the way you receive updates on Facebook and other social media networks. This ensures transparency across board and manipulation is difficult hence information is spread across thousands of systems.

How secure is Blockchain technology

Blockchain technology is much secured and solves several insecurity issues associated with transactions. New blocks are stored chronologically and linearly that means they are always added at the end of the Blockchain. Once a Blockchain is added it is impossible to go back and later the contents and every block has a unique hash. These hash codes are automatically created by advanced algorithms using mathematical functions. These hash and records cannot be modified by any one not even an hacker. In other to change a hash the hacker would have to change every single block on the Blockchain which is impossible because there are billions of blocks. Changing all of them is enormous and would require an improbable amount of computer power. The hacker has to do this so that there would be no trace.

 

Another way block chain ensures security is by implementing test where computers that want to join the Blockchain technology must undergo test. The test is called consensus models where users prove themselves before they can participate in block chain technology. As an example to join the bit coin network you have to undergo “proof of work”.

 

 

Is Blockchain the same as Etherbone or  Bitcoin?

The aim of Blockchain is to allow digital currencies such as Bitcoin and Etherbone (Founded by DogData.ch) record transactional information. Blockchain was formed to run in a way that records cannot be tempered with.  Bitcoin was the first Digital currency that brought Blockchain to Limelight and lately Etherbone is also making its waves in using Blockchain technology. Etherbone and Bitcoin protocol is built on Blockchain. Although transactions with Etherbone and other digital currencies using Blockchain is recorded and displayed publicly the user’s data remains private or at least not in full display.

In other to use Etherbone token Participants must create a digital wallet that consists of two unique keys. They are private and public keys where transactions are deposited and where they are withdrawn from.

 

Blockchain's Practical Application

The blocks on Blockchain are used to store millions of data including monetary transactions. Blockchains are extremely reliable and most efficient than other methods of information storage. Blockchain can also be used to store property exchanges, smart contract, votes and lots more. Here are some practical usages of Blockchain technologies.

 

Banks – Probably the industrial sector that benefits most from Blockchain technology. Block chain technology allows financial institutions to deposits money into users account at any time of the day and even during weakened. With traditional method of banking you would have to wait till Monday if you make deposits on Friday evening. Blockchain allows bank to carry out a large volume of transaction securely.

Cryptocurrency

We haven’t really heard about crypto currency wallet hacks due to its adoption of Blockchain technology. Blockchain is the bedrock of cryptocurrency and it ensures that no central authority regulates crypto currency. Economic fluctuations or government policies does not affect the value of crypto currency because it is decentralized .

Healthcare Uses

Health care providers have been leveraging Blockchain technology to provide better health care management and services. Blockchain is used to securely store and retrieve patients record. The records cannot be altered which in turn gives patients a lot of confidence.

Smart Contract

One of the leading uses of Blockchain technology is in smart contracts. A smart contract uses computer codes to build information into a Blockchain in other to verify, facilitate or negotiate a contract. DogData uses Blockchain technologies for effective smart contract and you can easily use it at https://mydogdata.com/newsalecontract. You can easily use it to create a unique, authentic and secure dog sale contract. The smart contract operate under a set of conditions that the parties or users involved agree to and it cannot be altered. Once all the conditions are met, the terms of the agreement would be automatically carried out.

 

 

Say, for example, I’m selling you my 12 weeks old puppy using a DogData Smart Contract. You agree to vaccinate the dog and feed it at least 2 times a day with a specified brand of food. You also agree to make a deposit of 60% of the agreed amount before I ship down the puppy. Both parties must send their portion of the agreement to the smart contract. The smart contract holds onto the terms of the agreement and executes once the conditions are met. If I don’t ship the puppy the smart contract would not pay me the 60% puppy fee. DogData smart contract automatically eliminates the fees that would have been paid to third parties such as escrow agents.  It also ensures that every party is satisfied with the deal and there is no mediator.

 

Dynamic registry:

Information is saved in ledger in the Blockchain technology. Lots of industry uses Blockchain to create dynamic registry. Industries such as supply chain, pharmaceuticals, distribution firms and lots more use Blockchain for dynamic registry. DogData.ch has taking the initiative to use Blockchain in other to create a dynamic registry for dog information which is known as Pedigree chain. You can use it to create historical records of your dogs and also to compute other information’s of your dog’s such as vaccination records etc.

 

 

Other areas where Blockchain technology is used include

• Property Records Use
• Supply Chain Use
• Uses in Voting and lots more.

 

What are the advantages of Blockchain technology?

• Improved accuracy by removing human/ third party involvement in verification
• Transparent technology
• Secure Trasaction
• Cost reductions by eliminating third-party verification
• Decentralization makes it harder to tamper with
• Transactions are secure, private and efficient
• Drive financial inclusion
• Tackle unsustainable consumption practices in luxury retail
• Store immutable evidence of war crime information
• Bring efficiency to Cash and Voucher Assistance programs

 

Cryptocurrency Adoption

Cryptocurrency has been adopted worldwide partly due to its security. There are a lot of other reasons why people own cryptocurrencies as well. Some people store cryptocurrency as a way of making profit from it while others just store it due to curiosity and speculations. If crypto currencies weren’t secured then the adoption would have been way less. Blockchain is bedrock for its security and efficiency. Lots of businesses are keeping up with the crypto revolution. Lets see the sectors that are at the forefront of it.

 

Travel companies

The travel industry has become one of the largest and fastest growing industrial sectors in the world. It is estimated that about $1.7 trillion is expected to be spent in travel industrial in 2020. Due to the high number of activities and financial transaction in the travel sector have adopted Cryptocurrencies widely.

 

The banking sector

People have relied heavily on banks to make daily payments and securely store their money and we said previously that banking sector is one of the leading industries that have adopted Blockchain. Cryptocurrencies runs on Blockchain technology and the banking sector have greatly adopted it due to its security, transparency and convenience.

 

Supply chain

Over the years Blockchain technology has greatly improved the supply chain industry with its secure and transparent mode of transaction.

 

Pet Industries

Pet industry is the new kid on the block that has adopted crypto currencies and DogData.ch is at the forefront of it. DogData uses Blockchain technology to store information of users about their dogs. The users share their information with other members of DogData community such as Dog vaccination records, Dog product use, Training regimes and other valuable information that can promote responsible ownership of dogs. The users are paid in cryptocurrency called Etherbone tonkens for sharing their information with other members. This model has great potential to promote dog welfare all over the world.

 

 

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

DogData’s transformational data management

Data privacy has become very important with the increasin number of hackers and malware on the internet. People and organizations are taking better approaches to ensure that their personal data is not compromised. When you data becomes compromised it can lead to a whole lot of negative consequences such as money theft, insurance claim, an organizational data breach can lead to your top secret getting into the hands of your competitor, a personal data breach can also lead to identity theft.

However do you know that no matter the measures you take in protecting your data it can still get into unwanted hands through social media and search engine organizations?

Social media organisation have become so big partly due to the customers information they sell to individuals and other entities. Billions of people are on the major social media platforms and billions of information’s are sold on a daily basis.

It is estimated that Facebook, twitter, instagram and youtube has a bergamot 6.5 billion users. Thats alot of personal and organization data at the hands of social media companies .

Organisations such as Facebook, Google (Alphabet), amazon and the rest gather information’s from their users and sell to individuals and organisations for marketing and statistical purposes. Whether you like it or not they collect a lot of personal information about users including email addresses, contact details, private messages and even little things like your location and the strength of your battery. All these information’s are sold without your consent and unfortunately there is not much you can do about it.

Big organizations also sell users data between themselves and these acts can be intrusive. They share users information without permission and your personal information are not so secured. Retail giants and organizations such as Wal-Mart, Netflix, Shopify and lots more gets access to even users private messages and chats for their marketting purposes. These information’s are sold without the users benefiting from it. Just the organizations that sell and buy benefits while users data is been compromised.

By the look of it more and more social media and search engines are coming on board with the same aim of selling users information without rewarding the users. Dogdata seem to be an exception where customer’s information is shared only with their consent and they also benefit from sharing their data. For Facebook, Google and other organizations they make money selling your information but the norm is different with DogData. You share only information you are pleased to share and you benefit for sharing those information’s. This is a way of getting additional money to take care of your pets and yourself while helping the Dog community and ensuring the responsible ownership of dogs.

DogData was founded by a team of passionate Dog experts, veterinarians, Groomers, and other functional experts. The mission is to promote responsible dog ownership, clear misconceptions about dogs, facilitating the solutions for the welfare of dogs around the world and helping users monetize their dog passion.

DogData ensures that members get a lot of useful information by sharing data between themselves while been rewarded. This is transformational, futuristic and a complete game changer in the dog industry. It’s a way of ensurimg people are able to get the right informations dog products and dog care information. This goes a long way in solving the problems associated with living and taking care of your pets while at the same time ensuring that information is not horded by big dog enterprises.


Dogdata members decide on information to share and you benefit from sharing those information. Access to customer’s data is restricted by the user and access is usually provided on a need to know basis, such as dog registration, vaccination details, users contact address in the case of sales when the product needs to be shipped down and lots more of other dog related information.


How we manage your data at DogData

Data privacy and Security: At DogData we understand the importance of data security / privacy and that is why we let you decide on the type of information you share. No third party would have access to your information without your consent. We deploy cutting edge technologies in developing our applications and we ensure applications are well encrypted. There are no vulnerability, no data breaches and you can completely count on us that we do not secretly collect your information without your consent. Furthermore, DogData’s customer data is protected by firewall and fully compliant with Europe’s General Data Protection Regulations (GDPR). When take the necessary steps to protect your data becouse we understand a that a data breach can cause reputational damage, trust issues and lots moreof other negative consequences.


User managed data Access: No one else have access to your data but only you. You are the one that determines the information to share and those you do not want to share. People access the internet through various devices and connections and the rate of vulnerability is greatly on the rise lately. We have taking the necessary steps to ensure that only you can share your data from our platform.


All data is paid for: You would get financial reward for any information you decide to share. You grant access to your data to other dog owners to promote dog welfare and you benefit for sharing your data. This is revolutionary and for the first time dog owners would benefit by sharing the information’s of their dogs with community members. DogData will pay you for every information you share with Etherbone Tokens. While other businesses adopts a model where they sell user information for their own benefit alone DogData gives you a platform to monetize your pasion.

Data Sharing for common goals: At DogData we built this model in other to promote dog welfare. Dog owners shares a common goal and one of the ways of ensuring those goals is through information sharing. For example you can decide to share the products used by your dog with another dog owner to promote the welfare of their dogs. You can provide informative that would be valuable in enhancing the breeding of other dogs, predict the outcome of the breeding, predict temperament, health conditions, reducing genetic defects and lots more.

 

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Teaching a Dog to Sit

Dogs, especially puppies, have a limited attention span and are easily distracted. Especially younger than six month. Bring him close to you and allow him to relax and focus. Make sure the environment is free of noise, people and distraction.

Be very relaxed because dogs read moods very well.

Make sure you also read your dogs mood. Make training very short like 5 mins. Once your dog start getting distracted or focus less then it's time to stop.

Obtain a variety of small treats. Because you will be giving your dog many treats during training. Use small treats that he can finish on time like some pieces of meat or biscuit.

Capture your dog’s attention. As with the teaching of all behaviors, the first step is to get your dog's full attention. This is best accomplished by standing directly in front of your dog with him facing you, so that he is completely focused on you and can see and hear you clearly.

Show the dog a treat. Hold a treat in your hand so that he knows you have it, but also so that he cannot take it from your hand. He will be very curious about how he should go about getting the treat from your hand. You should now have his full attention.

Move the treat from the dog's nose to behind his head. Keep the treat very close to the dog’s nose, then slowly raise it over the top of his head. He'll follow the treat with his eyes and nose, looking upward and in the process placing his bottom on the ground. You'll need to hold the treat close enough to the dog's head so that he won't try to jump up to get it. Keep it low enough to the ground that he'll sit. If your dog’s bottom isn’t fully reaching the ground, you can help by gently easing him into a full sit position while keeping the treat in the same position. If your dog tries to back up to follow the treat rather than raising his head and sitting, try the treat trick indoors in a corner to start with. This will limit the dog’s ability to move backwards, and may facilitate the sitting.

Say "sit" as the dog sits and reward him with a treat. When your dog’s rear end makes contact with the ground, say “sit” in a firm voice, then immediately offer him the treat as a reward for sitting.

If the dog doesn’t sit right away, don’t say “no, sit” or introduce other commands. If you limit your speech to just the command and the praise, the command word will stand out more clearly to your dog.

Praise your dog’s behavior. Reinforce the treat reward with praise; rub his head and use words such as "good boy". This reinforces the fact that he did something that pleased you. Do this every time your dog completes the sit action during the training session.

Release your dog from the sit position.

You can release your dog from the sit command by using a command word such as "release" or "free" while taking a step back and encouraging him to come to you.

Repeat the trick for 10 minutes. After a while he may get bored, so take a break and resume training another time. Aim for at least 2-3 short training especially every day.

Teaching your dog to stay

A puppy who knows the “stay” cue will remain sitting until u ask him to get up by giving another cue, called the “release word.” Staying in place is a duration behavior. The goal is to teach your dog to remain sitting until the release cue is given, then begin adding distance.

First, teach the release word. Choose which word you will use, such as “OK” or “free.” Stand with your puppy in a sit or a stand, toss a treat on the floor, and say your word as he steps forward to get the treat. Repeat this a couple of times until you can say the word first and then toss the treat AFTER he begins to move. This teaches the dog that the release cue means to move your feet.

When your dog knows the release cue and how to sit on cue, put him in a sit, turn and face him, and give him a treat. Pause, and give him another treat for staying in a sit, then release him.

Gradually increase the time you wait between treats.  If ur dog gets up before the release cue, that’s ok! It just means he isn’t ready to sit for that long so you can make it easier by going back to a shorter time.

Once your dog can stay in a sit for several seconds, you can begin adding distance. Place him in a sit and say “stay,” take one step back, then step back to the pup, give a treat, and your release word.

Continue building in steps, keeping it easy enough that your dog can stay successful. Practice both facing him and walking away with your back turned (which is more realistic).

Once your dog can stay, you can gradually increase the distance. This is also true for the “sit.” The more solidly he learns it, the longer he can remain sitting. The key is to not expect too much, too soon. Training goals are achieved in increments, so you may need to slow down and focus on one thing at a time.

To make sure the training “sticks,” sessions should be short and successful.

Teaching your dog to lay down

“Down” can be taught very similarly to “sit.” you can wait for your dog to lie down and capture the behavior by reinforcing your dog with a treat when he lies down, giving him his release cue to stand back up (and encouragement with a lure if needed) and then waiting for him to lie down again.

When he is quickly lying down after standing up, you can begin saying “down” right before he does so.

You can also lure a down from a sit or stand by holding a treat in your hand to the dog’s nose and slowly bringing it to the floor. Give the treat when the dog’s elbows touch the floor to start. After a few practices, begin bringing your empty hand to the floor and giving the treat AFTER he lies down. When he can reliably follow your hand signal, begin saying “down” as you move your hand.

Just like with sitting, never use force to put your dog into a down.

Don't forget to keep it short and let him master one command before the other
 

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

​​​​​​​How to teach your Dog to Salute or Say hello

The paw wave is a charming way for your dog to greet guests and show off his good manners.

There’s nothing better than being greeted by a friendly canine. But not everyone is comfortable being approached by a new dog, and not every dog wants to get close to a new person.

Teaching your dog to wave hello (or goodbye) gives him another way to interact with people in a calm, controlled manner. A polite paw wave is an easy way for your dog to charm guests with his good manners and pleasant behavior.

Wave essentially consists of your dog remaining in a sit position and raising a front paw in the air. If your dog doesn’t already know how to sit on cue start with that before you move on to teaching him to wave.

Dogs who already know how to shake may have a paw up on other dogs when it comes to learning to wave, but that’s not a requirement for this trick. Follow these simple steps to teach your dog to wave hello.

Sit stay and wave

Start with your dog in a sit. Hold a treat in a closed hand at your dog’s chest level, the goal is to get your dog to raise a paw toward your hand. Mark and rewards any paw lift or shift in weight that causes one paw to move slightly off the ground.

Some canines will immediately lift a paw up in the air to investigate the hidden treat. Others will shift their weight forward and lean in or stand up to sniff or lick the closed hand. If your dog moves outdoor of a sitting position, reset and try again.

Keep in mind that the goal is not to have your dog touch your hand, just to reach for it. To emphasize this, hold your hand just slightly out of his reach and click or mark just before he touches you.

Once your dog is raising his paw toward your hand, encourage him to lift it higher by raising the hidden treat. Mark and reward after each paw lift. Work up to having your dog raise his paw to shoulder height or higher, if he can. Keep in mind that this requires both balance and strength. Be patient and keep practicing until your dog can consistently lift his paw without moving out of a sitting position.

Your next step is to fade the lure. A simple way to do this is to hold the treat inside your closed hand but to reward the paw lift with a treat from your other hand (rather than giving him the hidden treat). After you have done this a few times, remove the hidden treat and instead hold your empty hand in the same shape. Continue to reward each paw lift with a treat given with your free hand.

When your dog is readily lifting his paw up in the air in a manner that resembles a wave, add a signal that is specific to this trick. A physical gesture like waving your own hand or a verbal cue like “wave” or “hi” can be used. Pair the cue with the lure: Just before you raise the hand holding the treat, say “wave.” After a few repetitions, add a delay between the verbal cue (“wave”) and the hand gesture (raising your closed hand) to encourage your dog to anticipate and respond to the new cue itself.

Work toward having your dog raise his paw in response to just the verbal or physical cue. Continue to mark and reward each paw lift.

You can also teach your dog to wave while facing away from you (for situations when he’s greeting someone other than you). To do this, gradually shift from standing directly in front of him to standing at his side. Give the verbal cue or hand gesture, and reward him for raising his paw. If it helps, you can have another person stand in front of him and wave back

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

​​​​​​​Grooming A Pregnant Female Dog   

Have you ever been pregnant or been around someone that's pregnant? Just the way pregnant humans feel that's the same way pregnant bitches also feel. They feel uncomfortable, they feel emotional and they could become unpredictable as well due to discomforts or actions of hormones.

So while handling them you need to be cautious.

Pregnancy can be a stressful time for anyone including your dogs and other animals as a result hormonal changes and inconvenience. Dogs need to be handled gently to avoid injury to unborn puppies and to mother. Take your time, ensure you are not putting pressure on any area that would cause injury or discomfort to your expectant dog such as the abdomen and mammary glands. While grooming make sure she's not under stress. If she is then you've got to stop. Make her clean and free of excess hair and debris. Perform grooming with extra care

Be sure to pay attention and stop or adjust grooming methods if you observe signs of stress in a pregnant dog. Also, be careful not to handle or groom your dog in a way that would increase her discomfort. Avoid pressure on the belly and near mammary glands that might injure unborn puppies or milk ducts.
A pregnant dogs needs extra care and caution while grooming. It is important for you to learn the tricks of grooming a pregnant dog before you proceed.

Pregnant bitches needs grooming just like any other dog. She needs to be clean and excess hairs needs to be removed from her body before she whelps. You also need to take care of the mammary region

There are a few things you need to know and be very cautious about while grooming a pregnant bitch.

When handling your pregnant dog, do not put pressure on her belly or abdominal area region as this can cause the pregnancy to be aborted or injure the babies as earlier mentioned.

Don't use any form of chemical bath on her.
You should pick up a pregnant dog by putting one arm around her chest and the other around her back legs under the tail area, so you can handle her when grooming. Also, a pregnant dog will have mammary glands that's filling up with milk, and nipples will be protruding, and engorged, prior to whelping. Be careful when grooming, trimming or clipping the abdomen, not to interfere with the teats or put pressure on any  mammary glands. Putting pressure on mammary glands because a few days prior to whelping can result in milk being expressed out.

The first set of milk a bitch produces is colostrum, which the puppies need to boost their immune and you do not want to lose it or interfere with or injure the milk ducts while grooming

Items you need:
Slicker Brush
Shampoo
Scissors
Dryer
Towel

Brush her daily

You have to regularly brush your pregnant bitch with a soft brush to remove debris everyday. Do not put pressure on the abdomen as earlier mentioned and do not use a stiff bristled brush on delicate areas.

Prepare a safe bath

Pregnant dogs should be bathed about one week prior to their due dates to remove debris and bacteria and to remove excess hair. Pick your pregnant dog up carefully by putting one arm behind her hind legs, under the tail area, and one arm around her chest. Be sure to hold her securely so she does not fall, but avoid putting pressure on her abdomen. Place your dog in a safe, secure bath she cannot jump out of. Restrain her if necessary to make sure she does not injure herself by attempting to jump out of the tub and use a non-slip surface so she does not slip. Make her water worm but not hot and then bath her gentle with an oatmeal shampoo and avoid using human shampoo on pregnant bitches.

Clean and avoid scrubbing the genital area and her mammary glands with excess shampoo, which can disturb natural bacteria and result in a yeast infection. Clean the genital area from front to back to avoid contaminating genitals with feces. If contaminated it can cause Ecoli.

After bathing her you rinse her thoroughly to remove shampoos and shops on her body.

And then its time to dry her

Dry carefully by gently rubbing your dog with a clean, dry towel. Avoid pressure on the abdomen or near mammary glands. Use a blow dryer on the lowest setting with caution please.

For trimming you can do that before or after bathing. It does not matter.

Trim long or excess hair carefully from around teats, genitals, and anus, to prevent contamination during whelping, which would make it easier for puppies to nurse.

Shave the groin and genitals and be very careful not to allow blades to become overheated--check them frequently on your wrist. If they are hot, stop clipping and let them cool.

Make blades clean and well oiled. Apply disinfectants on them after use.

Do not clip too close or cause irritation in her body and avoid contaminating genitals with debris from rectal area. Clip front to back.

General rules.

Do not pick your pregnant bitch up with your arm under the abdomen. Put your arm under the tail area, behind hind legs. And make sure not to apply pressure on the abdomen.

Make sure the dog has good footing at all times when being groomed so she does not slip and injure her pelvis or abdominal area.

Keep your dog clean prior to whelping, but avoid over grooming, which could cause skin irritation.

Avoid contamination of genitals with fecal material. Keep the area clean, work from front to back.

Be careful of the mammary area and teats. Work around these areas gently but keep them clean and free of excess hair.

You should be aware of your pregnant dogs mood changes and make sure not to stress her.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Can I take my Dogs out during the outbreak of Corona Virus

Can I take my Dog on a Walk during the Convid-19 outbreak?

 

Going for a walk with your dog is a factor of the policy in your country or state. Some countries imposed a complete lockdown and no one is allowed to go for a walk. If the laws of your state or country permit you to go out on a walk then your dog can accompany you for sure.

 

At this time, our experts have carried out a research at DogData and we believe the chances of your dogs contacting the virus is very slim. WHO currently advises that there is no evidence to suggest that dogs can be infected with Convid -19 as well. There is also  no evidence that dogs plays or can play a role in the spread of the Virus. There is even no evidence that other domestic animals like cats can also play a role in the spread of the virus.

But Two dogs have tested Positive for Convid-19 in Hong Kong

Well it is possible for your dogs to contact the virus from infected persons. This is because humans shed large quantities of the virus. Two dogs were recently and they are a 17 year old Pomeranian and a 2 year old German shepherd dog. But there is absolutely no indication that the dogs become sick through the virus. A week later the dogs tested negative to the virus. But there is absolutely no indication that dogs can spread it to humans because they do not shed it at all and even if they do its negligeble.

Although pets cannot become sick from COVID-19, could they infect humans?

It is absolutely possible that humans can spread it to their dogs during a walk or in other times. If an infected person sneeze or cough directly on their pets then they could contact the virus. It is also possible to transmit the virus to your dogs when you touch their mouths, nose or eyes. Therefore you should avoid touching the face of your dogs while on a walk or at home. You should also avoid sneezing and coughing directly on your dog. 

DogData Veterinary experts believe that the risk for transmission to dogs is very low. Convid 19 also last longer on the hand and other surfaces such as metal, glass, your dogs metallic lease and so on. Therefore after when you return home from a walk you should keep the lease away from the reach of your dog and disinfect it as soon as possible.

We would also advise you that you should stay away from your dog if you are sick of the virus and completely avoid walking your pets.

Is there a COVID-19 vaccine for dogs?

At the moment there is no vaccine for CONVID-19 for humans, dogs and other animals. There are other members of the coronavirus family and there are various species. They all cause common type of illness but do not have the same treatment. And for now Convid-19 has absolutely no form of treatment or vaccine. However you can vaccinate your dogs and domestic animals from other family members of coronavirus but certainly not against Convid-19.

 

Can veterinarians test for COVID-19 in dogs?

Veterinarians can absolutely test for CONVID-19 in dogs and the test request must be submitted by a Vet in most parts of the world. Although dogs do not necessarily spread it to humans but the test is necessary in order to monitor future outbreaks. Scientist are also of the opinion that soon the virus can mutate and then could be transmitted from dogs to humans therefore monitoring it in dogs is necessary.

Should my dog wear a face mask during a walk?

Not at all. There is absoluetely no need putting a face mask on them. Doing that can cause other breathing and respiratory issues in your dogs. However you should wear a surgical face mask during a walk so that you would not pass on the virus to your pets and other humans. A facemask also has the potential to protect you against the virus. Dogs are at a minimal risk of contacting the virus therefore it is necessary for you to protect your self at all time during a walk and in other times. To protect your self DogData recommends the following

1. Wash your hands often with soap and water thoroughly and regularly
2. Avoid close contact with sick people or those showing symptoms of illness.
3. Stay home when you are sick. Even if you are not sick you should stay more at home to avaoid exposure
4. Cover your sneeze or cough with a tissue and discard immediately
5. Clean and disinfect your premises always

Safeguarding your self would go along way in safeguarding your pets.

 

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Kennel club Puppy Registrations during the Corona Virus Crisis

 

The Novel Corona virus has greatly exposed how fragile the pet industry is and despite kennel club’s existing for hundreds of years the kennel industry was never as strong as it seemed.

Generally the world economy isn’t as strong as it looked. There have been record low interest rates which means economies would go on recession and it would be very difficult to recover from the recession as researched by our economist at DogData. All most every industrial sector has been hit hard by the outbreak of coronavirus. The most affected sectors include consumer services, transportation, entertainment, pet industry. But did you know that those sectors have been hit hard but some of them still function in some capacity which is not the case with the dog and kennel industry. The outbreak of the coronavirus has grounded activities of pet and kennel industries to zero and has exposed how fragile they are. Kennel industries are completely closed and people cannot effectively register their dogs. Kennel industries cannot also provide documents required for puppy sales because they are probably in isolation or hiding somewhere to be safe.

Breeders all around the world are facing tighter deadlines and most of them keep on waiting endlessly for the outbreak of coronavirus to come to a halt before they can complete the sales of their dogs. These fatalities are causing downtime but do you know that Blockchain technology can solve these issues?

The situation is getting worse and dog breeders around the world are faced with massive financial loss but there is a solution for you with DogData smart contract that runs on the block chain technology.

Last week there was a brutal downtime around the world which indicate that the world economy is on a path to recession. However you have the choice to remain grounded as a breeder or you make use of DogData Smart Contract to ease the sales of your puppy.

 

We have developed a sales contract that can be used to facilitate the sales of your pets no matter your location. You can find it at https://mydogdata.com/newsalecontract

Instead of waiting endlessly for kennel clubs to resume activities you can use our smart contract to prepare sales agreements. You can also register your dogs on our website www.mydogdata.com.

Puppy buyers can do a simple thing to avoid problems with breeder. Breeders can also enforce the sales terms and condition using DogData Smart contract. it is always useful and extremely important to spell out the understanding on each side.

 

Every information about the dog and the terms and conditions would be perfectly captured Here are the summarized checklist that is captured by the smart contract.

• Health. The contract would ensure the seller set out any health problems the dog has or may have, and should guarantee that the dog is otherwise healthy.
• Vaccinations. List the vaccinations the dog has had and when they were given. It's also helpful to say what further vaccinations the dog will need, and when.
• History. Where did the dog come from and who are the parents? This would ensure the dog is not from a puppy mill.
• Training. If the dog is supposed to be trained for a particular purpose (hunting, obedience, guard), document the extent of the training for the dog
• Pedigree. If the dog's lineage is important, spell it out and attach a copy of the parents' pedigrees. You can register your pedigree and none pedigree dogs on our website as well www.mydogdata.com
• Others include quality, price, delivery and shipments, right to return, payment terms and warranties

 

Our smart contract runs on the block chain technology and it comes with a lot of advantages. We are also the first and only organization in the world to adopt block chain technology for smart contract in the dog industry

Many people associate the block chain technology with crytocurrency but crytocurrency is just one of the applications of block chain technology. Many other sectors immensely benefit from the technology including the pet industry. At DogData we have taking advantage of the block chain technology to develop our smart contract to ease the sales of dogs around the world.  Here are the top advantages of block chain technology for our smart contract.

• You do not need third party or escrow agencies. Everything can be verified and enforced without delays
• Your data or agreement can never be altered or deleted
• It uses protected cryptography to secure your agreement
• It enforces maximum verification
• Transactions are recorded in chronological orders
• Your transactions are stored in blocks and are contained in millions of computers around the world
• Your transactions are transparent
• Automatic transactions are triggered when the terms and conditions are met and you do not have to wait for the outbreak of the coronoavirus to end to carry out transactions.

 

DogData is closely monitoring the situation of the coronavrus (COVID-19) outbreak. We encourage all dog owners, breeders, judges, exhibitors and only associated with dogs to stay safe. We would continually provide cutting edge technological solutions to ensure the responsible ownership of dogs. We would also ensure to provide technological solutions to enable to smooth sales of pets around the world despite the outbreak of the virus. While other clubs are running and hiding we are out here looking for a solution as a result of our responsibility to dog owners all around the world.

 

 

 

 

 

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Canine Coronavirus Vaccine

Have your dogs been vaccinated against Canine Coronavirus?

Most people are hearing about the Coronavirus for the first time in late 2019 and some in 2020. But did you know that coronavirus has existed for about 50 years? The human coronavirus responsible for severe acute respiratory syndrome also known as SARS was first identified in 2003. But the Canine Coronavirus strain and other strains have been known for about 50 years. The Canine Coronavirus causes life-threatening symptoms in some dogs.  The coronavirus is a family tree of viruses with many types and a new strain was discovered in 2019 known as the COVID 19 which is different from the canine coronavirus. There is also a Feline Coronavirus (FCoVs) strain which affects cats.

 

Most people are not aware of the Canine Coronavirus vaccine. The chances of your dog becoming infected with any of the coronaviruses increases if your dog is not vaccinated against it. The virus causes Canine Coronavirus infection (CVV). Its an intestinal disease and it is highly contagious. It primarily causes diarrhea in dogs and your dogs can shed the virus for as much as 6 months and in some cases, it is short-lived. Young puppies are most at risk of contracting the virus and in some cases, it can cause life-threatening complications. Dogs usually shed the virus through feces and other dogs can contract it when they come into contact with the feces of an infected dog. Other symptoms of the canine coronavirus infection include anorexia, vomiting, and mild fever. 

Origin of the Virus:

The virus is a member of the Coronaviridae family which has many strains including COVID-19. It is called coronavirus because when viewed from the microscope it has a ring of projections and typically appears like a coronet or a small crown made up of ornaments that are fixed on a metal ring. This is why it is called Coronavirus. There are various strains of the coronavirus and each affects domestics animals and humans in various forms. It is important to know that Canine Coronavirus (CCoV) is a different strain of SARS – CoV-2 that causes COVID-19. Even though there is no vaccine for COVID-19, having your dogs vaccinated against other forms of coronavirus goes a long way in keeping them healthy. You should also know that Canine Coronavirus (CCoV) can be transmitted from dogs to humans. While COVID-19 can be transmitted from humans to dogs as well.

How is canine coronavirus (CCoV) transmitted?

The majority of the transmission of canine coronavirus from one dog to the other is primarily through contact with the feces of an infected dog. This is why it is necessary to always clear up the feces of your dogs so that other pets do not come in contact with it. It can also be transmitted when an uninfected dog eats from the bowl of an infected dog or direct contact with an infected dog. Coming in contact with the feces of an infected dog or the feces of an infected dog can also expose humans to the virus.

Crowding and unsanitary conditions lead to coronavirus transmission in dogs so it is important to keep your dogs away from crowded animal environments if your dogs are not vaccinated against coronavirus. You should also practice good hygiene always.

Incubation Period:

The incubation period of coronavirus from ingestion to clinical signs is one to four days. While the duration of the coronavirus illness is short-lived in most cases. The duration lasts two to ten days in most dogs and in some cases dogs can shed the virus for up to 6 months. When your dogs are infected with coronavirus Secondary infections by bacteria, parasites, and other viruses may also develop which would typically prolong illness and recovery in your dogs.

 Are there diseases that have symptoms of canine coronavirus?

The best thing to do is to vaccinate your dogs against Canine Coronavirus so that your dogs would be adequately protected. It would also ensure that when symptoms arise you do not confuse it with the virus. The primary symptom of coronavirus in dogs is diarrhea however there are several illness that causes diarrhea in dogs as well. An example is parvovirus. Therefore, it is important to see your veterinarian if your dog experiences diarrhea for more than 24 hours.

Is there a treatment for canine coronavirus?

The best thing to do as a responsible dog owner is to vaccinate which would ensure your dogs are protected against the virus. There is no specific treatment against the Canine Coronavirus. Some Vets use antibiotics but in some cases, they are completely ineffective. Antibiotics in most cases would simply fight against secondary infections. Usually experienced Vets would withhold food for around 24 hours to help with diarrhea and then gradually introduce food to the dog. For dehydrated dogs, vets would also administer intravenous fluids to correct the fluid and electrolyte imbalances. In coronavirus infection, early medical intervention is the key to successful treatment, especially in severe cases.

What about vaccines?

 

There are Canine coronavirus vaccines but they were optional vaccines before now. They are optional because they are not recommended for all dogs and will be administered based on your dog's lifestyle and risk assessment. However, these vaccines have become compulsory with the outbreak of the novel COVID-19. This is because scientists suspect that either strain of the coronavirus family can mutate to be deadly. Therefore all dogs must be vaccinated against Canine coronavirus so that they do not transmit it to humans and endanger us further.

 

When should I vaccinate my dogs?

 

Most people do not know when to vaccinate their dogs due to the loss of documentation records and most people even though they are aware may not be able to remember the actual time when their dogs need further vaccination. Initial vaccination of the Canine Coronavirus vaccine should be given at about 6 weeks and repeated 2 -4 weeks later. If you don’t vaccinate your dogs they may be carriers of the virus. Most breeders are not able to provide vaccination records of their dogs and for those that have carried out the vaccination how do they effectively prove that? Most people nowadays easily forge vaccination cards which can truly be misleading and endanger the lives of the dogs when you purchase them.

In some cases, dogs are vaccinated against canine coronavirus but most people do not know what their dogs are been vaccinated against. So how do you tell if your dog has been vaccinated against coronavirus, how do you prove it to your puppy buyers? There is a massive problem all around the world with vaccination records and in most cases, only pure breed owners can tell what their dogs have been vaccinated against. Even with pure breeds owners, it is difficult to keep the entire vaccination records of all their dogs. Additionally, dogs that have had the standard European vaccination may also be the only ones that have had the vaccine against canine coronavirus. Did you know that you may be living with an unvaccinated dog (Canine Coronavirus Vaccine) like millions of dog owners all around the world?

Now here is the bigger problem. With the outbreak of the COVID-19 how do you tell if your dog has been vaccinated against Canine CoronaVirus? You may not be able to tell because third party agents responsible for vaccination records such as kennel clubs and other organizations are completely closed. If you have your vaccination records then good for you, but if you bought the dog after two months of age and you don’t have the papers your veterinarian would not be able to help you find out if your dogs had coronavirus vaccination already. This could put you and your dogs at greater risk. Did you know that the highest number of countries with coronavirus outbreak are those with the highest number of dogs per household? There is also more coronavirus related deaths in those countries and there is obviously a correlation.

The countries include

USA, Finland, Italy, France, Uk, China
 

Scientist are suggesting that in these countries people are exposed to the canine coronavirus strain and also COVID-19 strain at the same time. When humans are continually exposed to these strains of coronavirus it leads to mutations, becomes more lethal and causes more deaths.  Therefore it is important to vaccinate your dogs against canine Coronavirus so that you do not potentially expose yourself to different strains of the Coronavirus. The problem now is most people want to vaccinate their dogs against Canine Coronavirus but do not have the records as a result of the closure of kennel clubs to provide the records. More exposure to the coronavirus strains is causing mutations that have become a silent killer in some countries with a high population of dogs.
 

The solution

It is very interesting to know that DogData is always looking for solutions with technological tools to solve the problems of dog owners around the world. We have developed a blockchain technology that can handle the vaccination records of your dogs which is called,

Pedigree Blockchain Explorer. Our solution is decentralized and you and your Vets can access it whenever you want, no third party is needed to keep the immunization records of your dogs. The advantages of our blockchain technologies are numerous and would completely solve the problems associated with your pet records.

 

No cost or third party is needed. All you have to do is visit DogData website whenever you are vaccinating your dogs and key in the information. You also get a free etherbone token for registering your dogs on DogData

 

The blockchain record is stable and not governed by any third party therefore you can view your records whenever you want. The problems of missing vaccination dates of your dogs would also be a thing of the past. Additionally, DogData Pedigree Explorer enforces accuracy of record and no one can compromise the information.


 

 

Copyright © 2020 DogData Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Have your Dogs had their Coronavirus Vaccination ?

 

Responsible Dog owners would often provide a good home, food, and vaccines for their puppies to keep them away from deadly diseases.  Most often vaccines are advised by your veterinary but it is up to you to ensure that your dogs are vaccinated with the core vaccines. For example, your vet might suggest Rabbis vaccines for your Dog but it is actually up to you to take your dogs for the vaccination. Going to the vet repeatedly over several months for vaccinations, and then for boosters or throughout the lifetime of your dog may be inconveniencing to you. But you should know that it is absolutely necessary to ensure your dogs are free of diseases. There are lots of vaccines that are sometimes confusing but as a way of promoting the welfare of dogs at MyDogData we have simplified it for you. There are core vaccines and optional once. In this article, we would talk about the most essential dog vaccination and also the Canine Coronavirus vaccines.

 

Canine Distemper

This is a highly dangerous and contagious disease that attacks the respiratory system of your dog's gastrointestinal (GI), and nervous systems. It also affects other animals such as raccoons and skunks. Infected dogs can transmit it to uninfected dogs through contact with poops, shared food, and water bowl. The symptoms include vomiting, coughs, and diarrhea. But in very severe cases it can cause seizures, twitching, paralysis, and, often, death. It is highly important that you vaccinate your dogs against distemper and keep your dog away from unvaccinated dogs.

 

Canine Coronavirus vaccines

This disease seems to be the new kid on the block but did you know that it has existed in dogs for many years?  The coronavirus comes in various strains and scientists have researched that it mutates over time and becomes more deadly. The strain that affects dogs is the Canine Coronavirus while other strains have mutated over the years into COVID 19 and is currently ravaging the world. It is still a mystery that despite its deadliness more than 90 percent of dog owners do not vaccinate their dogs against it and more than 95 percent of people are completely unaware of the virus. This disease can cause respiratory issues in dogs, diarrhea and lethargy. In some dogs, it is short-lived while others can shed the virus for as much as 6 months.

 

Canine Coronavirus Vaccinations are designed to protect your dogs against illnesses and also to protect you. Did you know that when humans are exposed to various strains of the coronavirus it can mutate and become more deadly? This is probably the reason why the countries with the highest number of dogs per household are mostly affected by the novel coronavirus outbreak. The first strain of the coronavirus came in 1918 when an estimated 500 million (About one-fourth of the entire 2 billion world population by then) people got infected. Officially it was estimated that the virus killed between 17 – 50 million people around the world. However unofficial record has it that about 100 million people died of it.  The Spanish flu has mutated to the COVID-19 strain killing about 45,000 and infecting 850, 000 people globally as at when this article was written.

 

Canine coronavirus Vaccinations work by injecting your dogs with a small number of infectious organisms as with other vaccines. Your dog’s immune system would recognize them as foreign bodies and begin to fight them. Your dog’s body would then develop antibodies against it and ensure your dogs are completely safe from it. As a responsible dog owner, you must endeavor to vaccinate your dogs against the novel coronavirus. This would go a long way in protecting you as well.  You would not be exposed to the canine coronavirus strain and mutations would reduce if every dog owner would vaccinate their dogs against this disease.

You can read more about the canine coronavirus on our previous article https://mydogdata.com/viewbannerlink/5e81e8c39626580c638e1fdf

 

 

Canine Hepatitis

This is an infectious disease that attacks the kidneys, liver, lungs, and spleen of your dogs. Even though hepatitis affects humans this canine disease is completely unrelated to that of humans. An infected dog would usually exhibit the following symptoms, Fever, vomiting, abdomen enlargement, jaundice and pains around the body. You should know that your dogs can die of the disease if not vaccinated against it.

 

BordetellaBronchiseptica

This is a highly infectious bacterium that causes severe fits of vomiting and coughing in dogs. In severe cases, it can cause seizures and eventual death. This disease is the primary cause of kennel coughs in unvaccinated dogs. It is important to keep your dog away from unvaccinated dogs or crowded dog parks.

 

 

Heartworm              

There is a hearth worm prevention vaccine that is giving to dogs around 12 – 16 weeks of age. These worms lodge in the hearth of your dogs and could be very dangerous. They invade the arteries in the heart that sends blood to the lungs. They can also move around other parts of the body and invade organs such and your dog’s lungs, kidney and they could be as long as 14 inches if not eliminated. The symptoms include cough, lethargy, kidney failure and it can result in sudden death if not treated. Always vaccinate your dogs against hearth worm as a responsible dog owner.

 

Leptospirosis                

This disease is primarily caused by bacteria and even though it can be fatal in some dogs some would show no symptoms of it altogether. It is a zoonotic disease meaning it can be transmitted from animals to humans therefore you need to vaccinate your dogs against it. The symptoms include fever, diarrhea, abdominal pains, muscle pains, kidney failure, vomiting, loss of appetite and lots more.

 

Lyme disease

Lyme disease is a tick-borne disease and it is highly infectious. It is caused by a deadly bacteria called a spirochete. Symptoms in dogs include limping, fever and temperature rise, loss of appetite and lots more. This disease can also affect the hearth of your dogs, their kidneys and other organs. Vets usually treat it with antibiotics but prevention through vaccination is the surest safety measure for you.

Parvovirus

The dreaded Parvovirus is dogs and the owner’s greatest enemy. It is highly contagious and could kill your active puppy in as little as 4 days. It affects young dogs less than four months but could also attack older dogs therefore you need to vaccinate your dogs against this dreaded disease. The virus would attack the gastrointestinal system and creates a loss of appetite, vomiting, fever, and often severe, bloody diarrhea. Some dogs may experience extreme dehydration and would die whiten 2 to 4 days.

Rabies

Rabbis are a zoonotic disease and can be lethal for dogs and humans. It invades the central nervous systems of your dogs and causes severe headaches, anxiety, hallucinations, excessive drooling, fear of water, paralysis, and death. In most cases, it is transmitted when an infected dog bites an uninfected dog. Most countries require dog owners to vaccinate their dogs annually while some mandate it for 6 months others at least once in two years. Please consult your vet on Rabies vaccination in your region.

 

 

DogData dog Vaccination schedule

Dog Age              Recommended Vaccinations                                    Optional Vaccinations

6 — 9 weeks       Distemper, parainfluenza                                                           Bordetella

9 — 13 weeks     DHPP (distemper, adenovirus [hepatitis],                               Bordetella,

parainfluenza, and parvovirus)     Coronavirus, Leptospirosis,

Lyme disease

13 — 25 weeks   `              Rabies, Coronavirus, Lyme disease, Leptospirosis              

12 — 16 months               Coronavirus, Rabies, DHPP Leptospirosis,                              Bordetella

 Lyme disease

Every 1 — 2 years             Coronavirus, DHPP, Leptospirosis,                                            Lyme disease

Every 1 — 3 years             Rabies (or as required by the laws of your country or state)            

 

Copyright © 2018–2020 DogData Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Overweight and Obesity In dogs

Overweight and obesity in dogs.

As a responsible dog owner, you should get a weighing scale at home and make sure to check the weight of ur dog regularly. You should endeavor to know the standard weight of the breed you have so u can tell when it’s overweight and obese

Owners often incorrectly believe their overweight dogs are at a healthy weight.

The formula for reducing weight in dogs is is to decrease the calories consumed and increase inactivity.

Obesity is wen dogs who are at least 30% heavier than what their normal weight should be.
Excess weight on dogs worsen their arthritis and slow them down. Have you seen a baby outrun a full-grown dog? It can have significant financial and medical implications in the event of an emergency or illness as well.

These are some of the health issues that overweight could cause in dogs.

Pancreatitis: Meaning inflammation of the pancreas. this disease often results in decreased energy and appetite, with concurrent vomiting and diarrhea. While pancreatitis can be fairly mild, it can also be much more severe and can be fatal (due to the triggering of a body-wide inflammatory cascade set off by the pancreatic inflammation). We have talked about this in previous articles. Giving your dogs too much fat can also cause pancreatitis.

Heat Stroke: Bcos of both the insulating properties of their excess fat and the additional strain such excess weight puts on their joints, overweight and obese dogs are at increased risk of developing this debilitating, expensive, and (often) fatal emergency condition.

Diabetes:  This condition typically requires life-long management and frequent monitoring at your vet, but it also carries with it the additional risks of a severe metabolic emergency condition called diabetic ketoacidosis, recurrent urinary tract infections, etc.

Others: Excessive weight and obesity also predisposes a dog to recurrent skin and urinary tract infections, worsens the pain associated with arthritis and other orthopedic conditions, and increases the likelihood that a dog with a pre-existing respiratory or heart condition will suffer an emergency related to their condition.

How can you tell if your dog is at his ideal body weight?

You can use a combination of your dogs' weight and individual body condition score (BCS) to determine if your dog is overweight, underweight, or right. You should look primarily at the waist, ribs, and any fat deposits on the back or near the base of the tail.

When you view your dog's waist from the back his abdomen should tuck up as it approaches the back legs. When viewed from above, there should be a clear delineation between the back half and the front.  The waist and the abdomen should not be on the same level.

You should be able to feel the ribs easily, without having to press through too thick a layer of fat. If there is an excessive fat cover over the ribs, your dog is overweight.

Your dog's back should not be perfectly flat, and there shouldn't be a large fat pad along their sides or near the base of their tail. 

Weight loss in dogs is typically far easier than losing weight ourselves.  This is bcos we control what they eat. I would give you some tips to help you achieve weight loss in your dogs.

You have to reduce your dogs' calorie intake and increase his activity level (and his caloric burn).

Treats are typically the single biggest source of excess calories that most overweight dogs consume on a daily basis. You should reduce it and probably reduce the number of times you feed.

Don't feed your pet table scraps

Decrease the quantity of food you are feeding your dog or, if necessary, change the type of food you are feeding them if they contain too many calories. Feeding a higher protein and lower carbohydrate diet can help with achieving weight loss.

Increase the number of calories your dog burns each day. Increase your dog's level of daily exercise - start slow and gradually increase.

You can take them for longer or more frequent walks, or you can throw a ball for them more frequently for them to chase.  

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Care for your Dogs teeth

Are you unable to hug your dog because he has a bad breath? Does your dog also droll while eaten his kibble? Then it could mean your dog has a dental disease. Dental disease rarely occur and when it does it happens mostly to dogs above 3 years.

Dental diseases, including include halitosis (bad breath) and gingivitis (gum disease) and they are caused by tartar accumulation. All dogs can develop dental tartar, but small breed dogs are particularly predisposed. Be sure to inspect your dogs teeth and gums on a regular basis just as you do with his or her skin and haircoat.

Here’s the key to getting a good look. don’t try to pry your dogs jaws open lest u would engage in a wrestling match. Rather do it with the mouth remaining closed, simply pull those flabby lips up, down, and then back (as if he is smiling) to get a good view of the gums and teeth. Look for tartar accumulation (brown colored material that’s adhered to the teeth) redness or swelling of the gums, and broken or loose teeth.

If your dog does develop significant tartar and gingivitis, he’ll need a thorough dental cleaning. Should such significant abnormalities be found, your vet will discuss antibiotic therapy and the pros and cons of removing the affected teeth versus a root canal procedure. The best way to prevent tartar buildup is to brush your dog's teeth at least twice a month. 
What else to do aside from brushing? There are some dental chews, additives you can add to your dog's water. They are meant for the health of teeth and gums. There is also some dry food specially formulated that can help prevent tartar buildup like Purina. However, nothing beats regular brushing. Part of ur dog's annual physical examination performed by your vet should include careful inspection of the teeth and gums. Early identification and treatment of dental disease go a long way in preventing serious consequences.
 

 

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Your Dogs Ears and appropriate care

Many people never even think about checking their dog’s ears. However, the ears are very sensitive, can be prone to infection, and can develop parasites too. Even when you aren’t cleaning your dog’s ears, you will want to check them regularly and make sure they are clean and clear of discharge.

*EAR PROBLEMS*
First, let’s go over what ear problems look like. You need to be aware of what to look for any time you are grooming your dog. There are different types of ear infections and problems that can arise. A healthy ear will be pink, clear of discharge and clean. If you see any sign of a problem, there are different types of infections that could be responsible:
 

Otitis Extrerna – This is the name for an outer ear infection, and it is the easiest to spot. Otitis media and otitis interna refer to middle and inner infections respectively. An outer ear infection will lead to redness, itching, a bad smell, and sometimes, flaking skin.

Staph Infection– Various bacterial infections can be responsible for the problem too. Staph is the most common. The same symptoms as an ear infection as described above will apply, including redness, itching, and pain. You may notice a sore or wound inside the ear too.

-Pseudomonas – This is another type of bacterial infection. It cannot be treated at home. Instead, this particular type of infection will only be cured through specific antibiotics like penicillin and Cipro.
 

Proteus Mirabilis – This is a very common bacterial infection in dogs. Interestingly, this bacterium commonly lives in the stomachs of humans and dogs without causing problems, but should it make its way to the ears, it leads to itching, redness, and pain.

Ear Mites – These aren’t so many infections as they are tiny parasites finding their way to your dog’s ears. They are quite common and can be treated at home.

Yeast Infections – Yeast infections occur when there is an imbalance of yeast in the ear. Often, they come along as a secondary infection to bacteria issues. They can also occur more on dogs that are exposed to water regularly. Symptoms of a yeast infection include flaky skin on the inside and outside of the ear along with extreme itchiness.

Allergens – Dogs can have allergies just like humans, and if your dog is allergic to dust, mold, fleas, etc, then ear problems can come along. Often, in fact, exposure to allergens can lead to ear problems as well as skin conditions. Whenever you groom your dog, be sure to check the ears and make sure you don’t see any signs of problems. Most types of ear infections will require vet treatment, but ear mites can often be treated at home.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Responsible Dog ownership

Do you think you want a dog? Before adding one you should give careful thought to what it means to be a responsible dog owner. Bringing a dog into your life requires commitment. Here are some questions to consider if your thinking about getting a dog
Do I have the time to train, care for, and engage with my dog?
Is my lifestyle conducive to being responsible for a dog?
Is my home appropriate for the type of dog I want?
Do I have the time and space to exercise the dog?
Is someone available at regular times every day to feed and walk the dog?
Do I have the time to provide mental stimulation for the dog at a level that is appropriate for its breed and personality?
Do I have the financial resources to cover expenses related to having a dog?

Expenses can include:
Food, Grooming,
Training, veterinary visits for wellness care,
Expenses related to illness or injury,

What Type of Dog Fits Me?
Once you decide to acquire a dog, careful consideration should be given to the type or breed of dog that you want. Different dog breeds have a variety of personalities, energy levels, and physical characteristics.
Once you decide then locate a responsible breeder.
Acquiring your dog from a responsible breeder allows you to get better dogs and probably better education about the breed such as understanding of his genetic characteristics, including personality, coat, and potential health issues.

Once you bring your dog home, you will need to incorporate him into your life and make time to care for him.

Responsible dog owners should:
Provide a healthy, well-balanced diet in consultation with their breeder and vet. No table scraps, no hotel and restaurants left over's.
You should also make sure that the dog receives adequate training.
Exercise your dog daily. The level of physical exercise needed varies by breed, but all dogs need some exercise. Lack of exercise can lead to boredom, behavior problems, and weight gain.
Provide mental stimulation for their dog. Dogs like to have a  Toy, puzzles, and play are great ways to keep a dog mentally stimulated and out of trouble.
Groom your dog regularly. Some dogs require more regular grooming but all dogs should be brushed and have their nails trimmed routinely. You should take them for vet checkups and keep his vaccinations up-to-date. Senior dogs (older than seven years of age) or dogs with health problems should see their vet every six months.

Vets can help determine which vaccinations are best for a dog based on his health, lifestyle, and living conditions. All dogs are required by law to be vaccinated against rabies.
Make certain that your dog is not a nuisance to others. Always keep him on a leash and under the control of a responsible adult when outside of the yard. Pick up dog waste and do your best to clean the environment every morning. His poop could be a nuisance for neighbors.

Ensure your dogs barking is minimized so you don't disturb neighbors
Dog ownership is a significant responsibility, but it does bring a lifetime of gratification, companionship, and love. If you have a dog or decide to bring one into your life try to analyze what your income and responsibilities are so you don't bring in a dog and suffer him.
 

 

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Monitoring your Dogs poop

A good  way to stay on top of your dog’s health is to monitor his poop

Diarrhea is a major issue with dogs and it has several characteristics that vary depending on the cause.

There are several causes of diarrhea in dogs, ranging from a change in diet, stress, intolerance, etc

Usually keeping your dog without food should stop diarrhea but if it does not stop after a day then invite your vet.

Generally speaking, a healthy dog stool is moist and firm and has a mild odor.

And for dogs that eat food that has enough fiber usually have more volume of poop(quantity)

While dogs that feed on raw meat, on the other hand, tend to produce significantly less poop that is also smaller in size and firmer.

Dogs eating a high mineral raw food diet will produce poo that turns a much lighter color  and disintegrates very quickly(scatters)

Types of Dog Diarrhea

A soft stool with no visible blood or mucous might indicate either a dietary change or indiscriminate eating. However, it can also signal the presence of an intestinal parasite such as giardia.

A greasy-looking gray stool can be a sign of too much fat in your dog's diet, which can trigger pancreatitis. This can range from very mild to life-threatening. So don't feed ur dogs excess fat.

Watery diarrhea can be a sign of stress or viral infection(e.g parvovirus) or parasitic infection and can lead very quickly to dehydration, especially in puppies.

A soft stool containing or coated with mucous may indicate the presence of parvovirus or parasites.

A soft or watery stool with visible worms, eggs, or other uninvited guests is a clear indication of a parasite (worm) infestation.

Firm, soft, or runny poop containing blood or blood clots is almost always a sign of a serious health problem requiring immediate attention. Fresh blood indicates current bleeding, typically from the large intestine or the anus or anal glands.

Causes of Diarrhea

Since diarrhea is a symptom of multiple health problems, it also has multiple causes. These include:

Change in diet,
Toxins,
Inflammatory bowel disease,
Food intolerance, sensitivity, allergy, 
bacterial infection, stress,
Intestinal parasites, indiscriminate eating,
Tumors, viral infection, etc

When diarrhea occurs it could come with other symptoms which include fever, lethargy, malaise, loss of appetite, and dehydration.

If your dog seems fine but is experiencing a recurrence of diarrhea, it's time for a checkup.

If your dog is an adult,  healthy, and behaving normally except for diarrhea, I recommend you withhold food NOT WATER for 12 hours. At the 12-hour mark, offer food that does not contain fat and not watery

 

 

 

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Loss of Appetites in Dogs

Loss of appetite in your dog is a serious sign that something is wrong. It’s unusual for a dog to refuse more than one or two meals and this can indicate anything from depression to disease. Sometimes a stressful situation or an upset stomach can be to blame, but these things are often resolved within a day. If more than 48 hours go by with your dog still refusing to eat, take them to the vet immediately.

Loss of appetite in dogs can be caused by the following

Change of meal, illness, vaccination, injury in the mouth or other body parts, pains in the body, Parasitic infestation, depression, anxiety, like Worms, etc. The symptoms in your case could be worm infestation it could also be other forms of illness.

Signs that your dog has lost its appetite may include the following:

Eating less than usual

Refusing to eat at all

Not eating treats

Trying to eat, but not being able to finish a meal

Weight loss

Lack of energy

Vomiting

Treatment of Loss Of Appetite In Dogs

If your dog is having difficulty eating, there are a few things you can try at home to tempt them. You can try changing the food that you’re giving your dog in case there is something in it that your dog has decided it doesn’t like anymore or that is causing an upset stomach.

You can also try to warm the food a little or soften dried food by adding water to see if that makes it easier to eat and digest. Some dogs will respond to hand feeding when they’re feeling under the weather.

There is also appetite boosting drugs that can be used to try to encourage your dog to eat.

You should deworm your dogs regularly with an approximate dewormer.

Dental problems can also make your dogs not eat.
When they are growing teeth it would surely affect t their appetite. Viral infections such as distemper and parvovirus can make your dog's loss of appetite.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Training Your Dog to Ring a Bell to Go Out to Potty and Using a Diaper

A great and fun way to house train your dog is to train her to communicate to you when she needs to go out to potty is by teaching her to ring a potty train bell. This is best taught after your dog seems to prefer to go outside to potty and you would like to give her a good way to communicate that to you. The dog bell works especially well for dogs who only have only a few accidents or have accidents by the door. Teaching your dog to ring a bell prevents her from needing to resort to such "uncivilized" behavior as scratching on the door or barking to tell you to let her out.

Here's how to train your dog to ring a bell to go outside to potty:

Intro to the bell: Show your dog the bell. If she touches it with her nose, give her a treat. Once she is touching her nose to the bell every time you show it to her, go on to the next step. Put the bell away when you are not practicing with it. Ringing the bell: Show her the bell and only feed her a treat when she rings the bell by touching it. Once she is ringing it every time you show it to her, go on to the next step. Put the bell away when you are not practicing with it. Ringing the bell by the door: Hang the bell by the door that you want your dog to use to go out and show her the bell. Give her a treat when she rings it. Once she is ringing the bell by the door each time you point to it, go on to the next step. Put the bell away when you are not practicing with it. Ringing the bell by the door to go out for a treat: Put your bell by the door. Let her watch you as you place a treat outside the door. Close the door and then point to the bell. When she rings the bell, open the door and let her get the treat. Once she rings the bell right away when you place a treat outside go on to the next step. Leave the bell in place by the door. Real-life!: Next time you think she has to potty, go with her to the door and point to the bell. When she rings it, open the door and let her potty. Reward her with a treat when she finishes. Each time you let her out to potty, ask her to ring the bell first and feed her a treat when she finishes. Maintenance phase: Leave the bell on the door and when she rings it let her out to potty. If she starts to play or dawdle outside, bring her in. This will prevent her from ringing the bell when she sees a squirrel (or at least prevent her from learning that she can get you to let her out to play instead of just to potty)

How to Use Dog Diapers to Help with House Training

Generally, dog trainers recommend diapers only for incontinent dogs or dogs in heat and not for house training. I think trainers are worried that people will use the diaper as a crutch and end up not successfully house training the dog at all, which is a valid concern. However, I've found that the dog diaper can be a really helpful aid if used as part of a complete house training program for certain dogs.

Is your dog a good candidate for house training using a dog diaper?

Is your dog or puppy mostly house trained? The diaper is useful towards the end of the house training process when your dog readily goes potty outside and only has less than one accident a day. Is your dog easy-going about wearing things and being handled? This method works best for dogs that are calm about being handled and won't mind wearing the diaper. If you don't think this is your dog, you might as well skip it and stick with the traditional house training method. For boy dogs that just have pee accidents, the male wrap can be a perfect version of the diaper as it is easier to put on and take off.

First, find a good-fitting and comfortable dog diaper.

Next, it is important to teach the dog that wearing the diaper is a good thing so that he or she is not frightened by the process or become upset when you approach. Do this by taking it slow with your dog and using lots of treats during the process of putting the diaper on. A second person can be helpful at first to feed the treats while you position the diaper. If your dog tries to wiggle out of the diaper once it is on, try to interrupt, and then reward him or her for calmness. If your dog really dislikes the diaper it may just not be worth it since you will be able to house train your dog just fine using the basic house training protocol without the diaper.

The time to begin using the diaper on your dog is when you are almost 100% sure that your dog won't have an accident in the house. The diaper is helpful in the following ways:

Prevents floor, carpet and furniture clean-up (it can be difficult to remove all lingering odor which can hold back house training). Lets you know for sure that your dog has had an accident and that you need to give him or her less freedom. (Sometimes with little dogs they can have accidents that go unnoticed for quite some time). Makes going potty in the house somewhat uncomfortable for your dog which can help discourage him from "going" in the house. Helpful and courteous to use when visiting as dogs are often more likely to have accidents at a new place. (It is also important to remember to give your dog less freedom at a new place.)

If your dog has an accident in the diaper it means that you need to:

Give your dog less freedom in the house. Do this by using a crate, tether (only when you are home), exercise pen or by gating them in a smaller area. Take your dog outside more often for potty breaks (up to once an hour during the day).

Reward with extra tasty treats for going potty outside. If the accident is happening by the door, you can help your dog learn to signal to you when he or she wants to go out by teaching them to use a house training bell above.

Clean the diaper and also wash and dry the dog to prevent a rash. A second diaper can be helpful when waiting for the first to be clean.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Why do Puppies bark at night and training them to stop

Puppy keeping you up all night? Work on making him feel more safe and comfortable in his crate.

Puppies might bark because they need to pee or poop maybe they need your attention.  How should you handle this? Is it OK to ignore them or are there better ways to put a stop to the barking?

Your dilemma is a common one for new puppy parents. A small degree of vocalization is normal, especially for puppies adjusting to change. Puppies use whines, yips, barks, and howls to communicate needs or let out emotions. Ignoring the barking may mean missing what she's trying to tell you. Fortunately, there are some simple strategies that can help them learn to sleep quietly through the night.

If you’ve just brought your puppy home, you need to be absolutely sure that she isn't barking because she needs to go potty because many young pups simply can't hold it through the night. She may also be getting used to sleeping in her crate or sleeping alone. She may cry because she feels isolated or lonely. In this case, her cries may be relieved with experience as she learns that time alone is okay. But it is also possible that your puppy may be distressed and crying out in panic.

The first step in addressing your puppy’s nighttime barking is to talk with your veterinarian. Underlying issues like urinary tract infections and pain can cause problems for puppies to bark and treating these medical issues may help to resolve the dog’s behavior issues.

It is also possible that your puppy is displaying early signs of separation anxiety, a condition best treated early with professional help. Your vet can help with this, too.

Once you have the all-clear from the vet, there are several things you can do to increase your pup’s confidence and security in her sleeping space.

Put a Stop to Nighttime Barking

Teach your puppy to love her crate. Many puppies will initially react to a crate as if it’s puppy jail, because, in your dog’s eyes, the crate is a hindrance to reaching the fun things he enjoys, like people, toys, play, and freedom. It is important to introduce the crate to your puppy as a happening place where she gets good things like attention, play, treats or meals. Teach your puppy to love her crate by making it part of her daily routine. Offer treats or indestructible toys in the crate; while your puppy is inside, close the door for short periods. Do this regularly throughout the day to get her used to being in the crate.

Make your puppy’s create a peaceful, soothing place to be. Pheromone spray can help to keep your puppy calmer when she's in her crate. Items with the scent of the puppy’s previous home or with your scent may also help, toys like Scents of Security have pouches to hold scented items. For many pups, soft classical music or dog-formulated music, like Through a Dog's Ear, can also be comforting. A lightweight blanket draped over the top of the crate can help reduce the distraction of people moving around outside the crate and may help your puppy relax.

Put the crate in an ideal location. Puppies are more likely to be upset if they’re shut away in an isolated area, if they’re close to people, they’ll often calm down. Putting your puppy’s crate in a part of your house that you and your family frequent, such as a quiet corner of the living room or bedroom, may help with nighttime barking (and initially, the crate should be within earshot so you can let your dog out to potty as she needs it). As your puppy gets comfortable with her crate, you can move it to another part of the house if needed. When you do this, move the crate slowly a few inches each night, rather than one big move to a different room to give your puppy time to adjust.

Establish a regular potty schedule and stick to it. Most puppies hold their bladder for one hour for every month of age, plus one. So an 8- to 11-week-old puppy can usually hold it for up to three hours, while a 12-to 15-week-old pup may be able to hold it up to four hours. Keep in mind that this rule of thumb doesn’t account for the size of the dog or other events that may trigger the pup to go more often, like waking from a nap, playing, eating or drinking. Make a written schedule of times when the pup needs to be taken out and follow it. This may require you (or someone in your house) to get up in the middle of the night to take the puppy out, but when the alternative is a potty accident or a crying pup, being proactive is a far better choice.

Teach your puppy an alternative behavior to replace the barking. Once you’re on a consistent potty schedule, you can start to work on teaching your puppy to wait quietly to be let out. Never use punishment to get a crying puppy to be quiet. Instead, when it’s time for your puppy to go out, ignore vocalizations and wait for several seconds of quiet before letting her out of her crate. Reinforce the desired behavior with praise and treats.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Puppy training

Puppy training contributes to bonding, it's fun and good for the mental development of the dog. If you put in the efforts to train your dog early you would be much pleased with a well-behaved dog.

While training your puppy never hit him or scold him. Instead, say “No” in a sharp tone when you see your pup doing something wrong and give him praise when he stops or does the right thing.

When you bring a puppy home he looks adorable and probably perfect to you but you should know there are many things he needs to learn in his new home.

Training can help him develop proper dog manners. Even the friendliest neighbors, including those who love dogs, will be resentful if your puppy barks incessantly, wander on their lawn, soils their yard or tears up their flowers.

Basic training could also save your puppy’s life knowing a simple command, like come when called, could help keep your puppy out of danger.

Creating Good Habits in dogs.

Get your puppy’s attention by using a low-pitched, serious voice. Say “ahhh!” This will startle him, and he will stop what he is doing and look to you for further direction.

Provide an acceptable alternative behavior or distraction.

Praise correct behavior. In an upbeat, high-pitched voice say “good puppy!” and reward him with calm petting or a treat.

Use positive reinforcements. Positive reinforcement consists of associating a reward with the desired behavior. If you use positive reinforcement during training, your puppy will learn to associate training time and behaving well with praise, affection or treats. Punishment as a form of training may lead to stress and anxiety for puppies and may weaken the relationship you have with your puppy.

Dogs are social animals just like us. They are naturally accustomed to living in parks and when you get a dog they become part of your family. You have to set the rules for your puppy early and be dedicated in teaching him. He’ll come to respect the rules you layout for him. All it takes is for you and your family to lead the way.

It’ll take some time for your puppy to learn the rules especially when they are very young. Puppies less than 6 months have a very short attention span and find it difficult to concentrate without getting distracted.

You have to make training short and simple and with positive reinforcements.  Many people will reprimand their puppy during training when they do something “wrong.” that's wrong on your part.

Reprimanding your dog isn’t the way to go about teaching him. Instead, motivate him by showing him praise, petting him and giving him treats when he follows the rules.

When is the best time to start training your dogs?

The best time to start training your pup is the moment he enters your home. Show him right from wrong the first day and continue to teach him the rules as he grows up. If you miss something along the way, don’t believe you can’t teach an old dog new tricks. You can definitely do that.

Consistency

There’s a strong connection between you and your puppy, so clear and consistent communication is key when you’re training him. Teach him positive actions by rewarding him, and “No” by guiding him to do the right thing. The important thing is you’re explicit in teaching him right from wrong; otherwise, he’ll get confused. If you’re not consistent, he won’t be either.

Rewarding with treats

Giving your puppy a treat or kibble can be a good way to reward him for learning. But don’t give him any free treat. Let him work for it or earn it. This shouldn’t, however, be his only reward. It’s ok to start off with treats, but over time gradually replace treat rewards with praise. Pretty soon praise will be all he needs, and treats can be used just as a treat.

Misbehavior from your puppy is expected. But it isn’t out of spite, it’s because he probably thinks that it’s okay to act that way. It’s up to you to teach him otherwise. Remember to catch him in the act and not to punish him for something he did in the past. He won’t know what you’re punishing him for unless you connect it to an action that occurred very recently.

Be patient. Keep showing your puppy what to do until he responds, then praise him. Never lose your temper or strike your puppy. He won’t understand why you are angry, nor will he learn from such treatment. Instead, he may fear you. When he responds, praise and pet him or offer a treat.

Use puppy treats as a reward to help strengthen the behavior you request. His primary motivation should be to please you, not to receive a snack. Be firm and consistent. Always be sure to use the same tone of voice and the same words when giving a command.

End each training session on a positive note. If your puppy hasn’t mastered a new command, go back to one he can carry out and praise him for doing so.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

​​​​​​​Training your Dog on Crates, gates and Tethers

Preventing misbehavior may not teach your dog everything about how you want him to behave, but it is a great place to start because it keeps you sane and keeps him from learning how fun it might be to do naughty things. The following instructions will help you to prevent your dog from destroying your home, becoming fearful or aggressive, barking or hyper behavior and more!

A crate is helpful for working on house training as well as a prevention tool for times when you are not home or are otherwise unavailable to supervise your dog. Keeping him in his crate when you are not able to supervise will prevent many problems and help to keep him safe. His crate should be made of plastic or wire and should be just big enough for your dog to lay down and change position comfortably. Fabric crates are handy for a dog that is already calm in his crate but not durable enough for dogs that are not crate trained or those who like to chew or try to escape.

The crate offers your dog a safe place to relax and prevents misbehavior like destructive chewing and house training accidents. The crate will be his haven from a toddling relative who wants to yank his ears or when he needs a bit of privacy to nap.

Learning to be comfortable in his crate is also important if your dog ever needs surgery, to go to a groomer, boarding kennel, or to travel. Your dog will most likely enjoy being in his crate if you take a little time to teach him what a nice place it can be and associate it with his favorite things. Following the steps below will help him to learn to go in his crate when asked and relax until you release him.

Crate training:

Put a blanket inside the crate along with a bunch of treats and close the door leaving the dog outside of the crate. Allow your dog to notice the treats and have a few minutes of longing. Then say "go" "inside" (or whatever word you are comfortable with) and open the crate door. When he goes in and finishes those treats, be ready to feed him a few more one by one while he is still in the crate.

Repeat this until your dog is excited about the idea of going into the crate. This time we will start with a comfy closed crate with no treats inside. Say "go" and open the crate door. After he enters prevent him from exiting the crate by sitting in front of it and then feed him treats in a steady stream. Repeat this a few times until he is going in confidently for his treats and not anxious while inside. If he doesn't go in right away, toss a treat into the crate for him to follow. Continue practicing until you are able to have him go in before he sees the treat (if you need an intermediate step, you can try pretending to toss the treat and then giving it to him once he goes in the crate).

As before, say "go" and open the crate door. Once he goes in, close the door to the crate. Feed him treats in a steady stream. Once he relaxes and lays down, continue to feed, but space out the treats a few seconds apart. Slow your treats down to about every 10 seconds when he seems especially calm. Let him out of the crate when he is calm. Prepare a yummy chew toy (by lining a rubber toy with cream cheese, for example). Say "go" and open the crate door. Once he is in the crate, give him the chewy and close the door. When he is focused on chewing, get up and walk around, occasionally going out of sight.

Let him out of the crate before he finishes chewing but only if he is calm. Each time you leave your dog in his crate give him a special food-related chew. This will reward him for going in there as well as occupy him while he is in there. Eventually, your dog should begin going in his crate by himself when you say "go". Remember to always let him out only when he is calm. Doing so will reinforce that the crate is a place of relaxation. If your dog should fuss in the crate, you must ignore it unless he seems truly hurt.

Release him only when he is calm, otherwise, he may learn to fuss in order to be released. Avoid leaving your dog in his crate for more than four hours (unless overnight). Longer than four hours may lead to him becoming stressed and therefore more likely to bark and resist going into his crate in the future.

Crate Training Tips:

Leave soothing music on for your dog while he is in the crate. Feed him meals in the crate to help him further associate it with good things. Feed him a treat whenever you see him go in his crate on his own. If he is initially frightened of the crate you will need to take your time with the above steps and give him plenty of opportunities to learn how wonderful his crate is. Avoid forcing your dog into his crate as this will serve to convince him it is a scary place.

Tethers / Tie- Backs: A rope or leash can be secured to your waist or in a small area in order to keep your dog near you and prevent misbehavior. This is not recommended for use without supervision because it is possible he could get the tether tangled around his neck and choke. Reward calm behavior while on the tether by giving a pat or a treat. Ignore any fussing so he doesn't learn to do so in order to get attention.

A Chew Proof tether in use

Pet -gates: A gate can be placed between doorways to help keep your dog out of non-puppy-proofed areas and prevent house training accidents and destructive chewing. Beware, some dogs are great at jumping over these, so you may want to purchase the tallest one you can find if you suspect you have a bounding hound.

Drag-Lines: A 10-foot long-or-so piece of rope can be attached to his collar or harness to give you a better chance to prevent your dog from jumping up on someone or dashing out of the door (This is not recommended for use without supervision because it is possible he could get the line tangled around his neck and choke.). A drag-line is also useful for administering time outs when needed.

Food and Treats: Why just put all his calories in a bowl to be eaten in seconds? Food can be very useful in managing and training your dog and too valuable to give away for free in two quick meals! A piece of food placed close to his nose will enable you to lure him past a distraction or get him to drop a forbidden item. Giving him a yummy chew will help him decide to chew on that instead of your furniture. Using his daily food to fill puzzle toys and scattering them about for him to "hunt" will help him to stay busy and using up that mental energy will help him to be calm.

Taste Deterrents: A commercially available yucky-tasting solution can be sprayed or wiped on items (or even your hands if you have a nippy pup) to discourage chewing. These are made of safe, non-toxic compounds that if licked will cause no greater harm than a "yuck" face and a need to have a drink of water. Unfortunately, some dogs don't mind taste deterrents, and if you are the lucky owner of one of these (Labs!), you could experiment with different brands, or simply focus on using the other prevention tools listed.

We hope these tips help you in training your dog.

Goodluck.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

​​​​​​​Training your dog on Crates, gates and Tethers

Preventing misbehavior may not teach your dog everything about how you want him to behave, but it is a great place to start because it keeps you sane and keeps him from learning how fun it might be to do naughty things. The following instructions will help you to prevent your dog from destroying your home, becoming fearful or aggressive, barking or hyper behavior and more!

A crate is helpful for working on house training as well as a prevention tool for times when you are not home or are otherwise unavailable to supervise your dog. Keeping him in his crate when you are not able to supervise will prevent many problems and help to keep him safe. His crate should be made of plastic or wire and should be just big enough for your dog to lay down and change position comfortably. Fabric crates are handy for a dog that is already calm in his crate but not durable enough for dogs that are not crate trained or those who like to chew or try to escape.

The crate offers your dog a safe place to relax and prevents misbehavior like destructive chewing and house training accidents. The crate will be his haven from a toddling relative who wants to yank his ears or when he needs a bit of privacy to nap.

Learning to be comfortable in his crate is also important if your dog ever needs surgery, to go to a groomer, boarding kennel, or to travel. Your dog will most likely enjoy being in his crate if you take a little time to teach him what a nice place it can be and associate it with his favorite things. Following the steps below will help him to learn to go in his crate when asked and relax until you release him.

Crate training:

Put a blanket inside the crate along with a bunch of treats and close the door leaving the dog outside of the crate. Allow your dog to notice the treats and have a few minutes of longing. Then say "go" "inside" (or whatever word you are comfortable with) and open the crate door. When he goes in and finishes those treats, be ready to feed him a few more one by one while he is still in the crate.

Repeat this until your dog is excited about the idea of going into the crate. This time we will start with a comfy closed crate with no treats inside. Say "go" and open the crate door. After he enters prevent him from exiting the crate by sitting in front of it and then feed him treats in a steady stream. Repeat this a few times until he is going in confidently for his treats and not anxious while inside. If he doesn't go in right away, toss a treat into the crate for him to follow. Continue practicing until you are able to have him go in before he sees the treat (if you need an intermediate step, you can try pretending to toss the treat and then giving it to him once he goes in the crate).

As before, say "go" and open the crate door. Once he goes in, close the door to the crate. Feed him treats in a steady stream. Once he relaxes and lays down, continue to feed, but space out the treats a few seconds apart. Slow your treats down to about every 10 seconds when he seems especially calm. Let him out of the crate when he is calm. Prepare a yummy chew toy (by lining a rubber toy with cream cheese, for example). Say "go" and open the crate door. Once he is in the crate, give him the chewy and close the door. When he is focused on chewing, get up and walk around, occasionally going out of sight.

Let him out of the crate before he finishes chewing but only if he is calm. Each time you leave your dog in his crate give him a special food-related chew. This will reward him for going in there as well as occupy him while he is in there. Eventually, your dog should begin going in his crate by himself when you say "go". Remember to always let him out only when he is calm. Doing so will reinforce that the crate is a place of relaxation. If your dog should fuss in the crate, you must ignore it unless he seems truly hurt.

Release him only when he is calm, otherwise, he may learn to fuss in order to be released. Avoid leaving your dog in his crate for more than four hours (unless overnight). Longer than four hours may lead to him becoming stressed and therefore more likely to bark and resist going into his crate in the future.

Crate Training Tips:

Leave soothing music on for your dog while he is in the crate. Feed him meals in the crate to help him further associate it with good things. Feed him a treat whenever you see him go in his crate on his own. If he is initially frightened of the crate you will need to take your time with the above steps and give him plenty of opportunities to learn how wonderful his crate is. Avoid forcing your dog into his crate as this will serve to convince him it is a scary place.

Tethers / Tie- Backs: A rope or leash can be secured to your waist or in a small area in order to keep your dog near you and prevent misbehavior. This is not recommended for use without supervision because it is possible he could get the tether tangled around his neck and choke. Reward calm behavior while on the tether by giving a pat or a treat. Ignore any fussing so he doesn't learn to do so in order to get attention.

A Chew Proof tether in use

Pet -gates: A gate can be placed between doorways to help keep your dog out of non-puppy-proofed areas and prevent house training accidents and destructive chewing. Beware, some dogs are great at jumping over these, so you may want to purchase the tallest one you can find if you suspect you have a bounding hound.

Drag-Lines: A 10-foot long-or-so piece of rope can be attached to his collar or harness to give you a better chance to prevent your dog from jumping up on someone or dashing out of the door (This is not recommended for use without supervision because it is possible he could get the line tangled around his neck and choke.). A drag-line is also useful for administering time outs when needed.

Food and Treats: Why just put all his calories in a bowl to be eaten in seconds? Food can be very useful in managing and training your dog and too valuable to give away for free in two quick meals! A piece of food placed close to his nose will enable you to lure him past a distraction or get him to drop a forbidden item. Giving him a yummy chew will help him decide to chew on that instead of your furniture. Using his daily food to fill puzzle toys and scattering them about for him to "hunt" will help him to stay busy and using up that mental energy will help him to be calm.

Taste Deterrents: A commercially available yucky-tasting solution can be sprayed or wiped on items (or even your hands if you have a nippy pup) to discourage chewing. These are made of safe, non-toxic compounds that if licked will cause no greater harm than a "yuck" face and a need to have a drink of water. Unfortunately, some dogs don't mind taste deterrents, and if you are the lucky owner of one of these (Labs!), you could experiment with different brands, or simply focus on using the other prevention tools listed.

We hope these tips help you in training your dog.

Goodluck.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

​​​​​​​Training your puppy and an adult Dog to love you

Falling in love with a puppy can be effortless and instantaneous, and we tend to take it for granted that the puppy will reciprocate.

I believe that in some cases, puppies feel love for a new family from the very beginning, in an instant connection that doesn’t need any encouragement to flourish. For other puppies, the initial connection might be less dramatic, but over time, it can grow into a strong devotion.

Some puppies don't click with people right away; these dogs may benefit from a trainer’s professional insight, especially if they have challenges like anxiety, fear, shyness or aggression. If you feel that your puppy needs extra help, start by talking to your veterinarian for guidance or a referral to a behaviorist or positive-reinforcement trainer.

Our dogs can’t tell us that they love us with words, but I believe they show us love in various ways.

You know your dog loves you when he greets you before everyone else, does a special doggie dance just for you or brings you his most treasured toys. He may also display specific signs of trust and security around you.

Loving relationships with dogs are founded upon trust and mutual respect. Positive reinforcement training is an important component of this relationship.

It makes sense to focus on activities your puppy likes when you’re trying to win his love, don’t limit yourself to doing only what he naturally enjoys. Making an effort to make activities the puppy may not initially like, such as being still for petting, more pleasant and less stressful can help him feel more comfortable, both with you and with the activity.

Building a positive relationship with your puppy can also help you remain close through transition periods in the puppy’s life, such as through his adolescence or the canine teen years.

Common changes during adolescence include the puppy becoming more independent and more willing to test boundaries. A good relationship between puppy and person can help ease this otherwise-difficult phase.

A relationship founded on reward-based training is particularly helpful in this part of a dog’s life, as it helps reduce conflict and promotes resolving problems in a kind and gentle manner.

Most of us love puppies, and I’ve found that puppies have just as much love to give us in return. With some dogs it’s just there, from that very first snuggle, while with others, it takes time and effort to build. But the investment is well worth the lifelong love and friendship you and your dog will find in each other.

Making an Adult dog love you.

The first step in forming a bond with an adult dog is finding an activity he enjoys.

One of the greatest compliments a dog can pay you is to make it clear that you are his most prized companion. When you bring a new dog into your life, the hope is that he will love you more than he loves anyone else. But if the new dog is already an adult, bonding with him may be more complicated than you expected.

When you’re trying to earn the love of an adult dog, understanding how to connect with your canine can help. There is no one-step approach to making your adult dog adore you. Sometimes a deep connection with a dog is seemingly born in an instant, but more commonly, such bonds take time to forge and are the result of intentional actions. The way to a dog’s heart isn’t the same for every canine, and adult dogs may require a little extra time and effort before you win their love.

Forging a relationship with an adult dog can be a lot like getting to know a new adult human. Like people, adult dogs come with a broad range of past experiences, and as such, the type of interaction that may work for one dog may not be the right approach for another dog.

There are ways to make an adult dot love you. words of affirmation, gifts, acts of service, physical affection and quality time. Learning which language speaks to your spouse or partner or friend can strengthen and deepen your relationship with that person.

Similarly, your adult dog may connect with you more easily when you speak his language although in the case of your canine, his love language is most likely certain activities that he enjoys and wants to share with you.

The first step in forming a bond with an adult dog is to earn his trust. In forming a bond with any adult dog, it is important to be the type of leader dogs willingly want to follow, someone they feel is safe, no matter what the dog’s personality. It is also helpful if the dog can associate your presence with good things happening. Reward-based training is one way to create such leadership: It builds better behavior and creates a powerful communication tool at the same time that it strengthens the dog’s trust in and positive perception of the person.

Once you have earned the dog's trust, work on finding activities he enjoys. This can help to build a positive association in the dog’s mind between something he finds enjoyable following a scent, for example, and time spent with you. At the same time, doing something your dog innately enjoys helps to strengthen your appreciation of his unique talents and personality, which can give you a basis for your relationship with him.

While learning what your dog likes to do it is also important to identify his dislikes. There can be a disconnect between an animal and a human when interactions occur in a way the dog doesn’t understand or appreciate. Watch your dog’s body language and behavior when you interact with him to assess if he likes or dislikes what is happening. For instance, if you talk baby talk to your dog, pay attention to his reaction. Does he seem to happily anticipate this time with you? Is he relaxed while you are talking to him? Or does he tense up and try to move away? If it’s the latter, then it’s time to find a different way to interact with him.

Each dog will show his connection to individual people in different ways.

Each dog has a very specific personality and so do you and this can affect how well you get along with different canines.

If your dog is hesitant in warming up, it’s important to seek professional help, like a veterinary behaviorist or a veterinarian working with a positive-reinforcement trainer, to help you address the situation. In some cases, the bond between person and dog is hindered by underlying fear, aggression or other conditions that can benefit from skilled assessment and multi-pronged treatment when necessary. Even with all the best efforts, though, your adult dog may continue to be distant, not all adult dogs may become the snuggly partner you’re hoping for.

Some may remain distant and independent, despite your efforts. But as long as your dog is not experiencing fear or anxiety, with work, you can usually find a way to interact that’s comfortable for both of you.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Teaching your dog to search or find it and Teaching your dog to Hug

Training a dog requires time and patience but the benefits outweigh your effort. In the article, we shall be talking about the "Find it command" and the "Hug" command.

"Find it" it is a fun game and command to teach your dog that taps into his natural inclination to sniff.

Most dogs are naturally good at following their noses. They can often track everything from a dead mouse in the compound to a sandwich you left unattended to. This ability to nose out interesting smells can be channeled into a constructive skill with some simple training.

“Find it” can be helpful in a variety of situations. A quick game of “find it” can help nervous or timid canines to relax around new people or in unfamiliar situations, like at the vet’s office. “Find it” can be a way to help your dog channel excess energy or calm himself when greeting visitors. And “find it” can provide important mental stimulation by encouraging your dog to work for his meals and treats, which mimics the hunting his feral ancestors would have done.

“Find it” is a simple and fun game to teach your dog. Here’s how to get him sniffing.

Teach your dog to play “find it” by encouraging his natural talent for sniffing things out. A verbal or physical signal of the start of the game can help your dog know when it’s time to put his nose to the ground and go searching for something interesting.

To start, give the signal or cue “find it!”  and immediately toss a desirable treat or favorite toy. Start easy, by tossing the treat or toy in a flat, open area. If your dog doesn’t understand what you’re asking, help him out by pointing at the item or walking toward it to draw his attention to it.

When your dog finds the item, reward him with praise and repeat the process. Give the “find it” cue and toss another treat or toy (or reuse the same toy if your dog returns it to you after he finds it).

Once your dog catches on and begins to associate the “find it” cue with retrieving the tossed item, start to increase the difficulty and make the task more challenging. Rather than one treat, toss several. Or rather than tossing a toy, ask your dog to stay while you hide the toy. You can also toss treats or a toy where your dog cannot see it, like behind a piece of furniture, and let him hunt for it.

“Find it” can be utilized to turn your dog’s mealtimes into a form of enrichment and mental stimulation. Scatter his kibble on the kitchen floor or across an outdoor patio or use a food puzzle to serve your dog’s meal. Both of these options require him to work for his food, which is good mental and physical exercise.

“Find it” can also turn playtime into hide-or-seek: Ask your dog to unearth his toy before engaging in a game of fetch or structured tug. “Find it” can also be a useful way to encourage structured greetings or calm interactions with people: Toss a toy and have your dog find it and bring it to your guests.

Teach your dog to hug

A hug can make you and your dog both feel happy and loved.

It can be hard to resist giving a dog yours or someone's else a hug. If your dog enjoys being physically close to you, a hug can make you both feel happy and loved.


But not all dots love to hug. For some dogs, a physical embrace may be perceived as an invasion of personal space or even a physical threat, especially when the hug is instigated by a person without the dog’s consent. This can result in a dog who is stressed or scared and can lead to a growl or even a bite.

Training your dog to hug on cue can give him a predictable way to interact with people, which can help him feel less anxious.

There are two types of hugs you can teach your dog to give. The first involves the dog standing up on his hind legs and resting his front paws on your shoulders, mimicking the chest-to-chest hug shared between two people. This option is good for quick greetings and works best with calm dogs who already know how to keep all four paws on the floor.

The second option involves teaching your dog to rest his head (and potentially his entire body) against you in a full doggy embrace. This is a nice option for dogs who like to be close to people and enjoy snuggling.

You can teach your dog whichever version is best for his and your hugging personality. Some dogs will prefer one type of hug over another, while others will enjoy both options.

The standing hug

If your dog is already the type who greets you by placing his paws on you, training a standing hug is as simple as teaching him to associate this natural behavior with a cue. Big dogs can be taught to place their paws on your shoulders while you stand up, but with smaller dogs, you will need to kneel or sit to enable them to reach up and hug you.

One caution, though: If your dog tends to greet people by jumping on them, you will need to deal with that behavior before you teach your dog to hug on command and you may want to skip the hugging altogether.

For spontaneous canine huggers, simply add a verbal cue, like “hug,” to a naturally occurring hug (for example, when you walk in the door at the end of the day). Say the cue as he begins to reach up to hug you, and then reward him with a treat or praise. Alternatively, pat your legs or shoulders to invite your dog to place his paws up; as he does so, say the cue “hug.” Pair the cue with a reward of praise or a treat to help him associate the word with the reward.

With enough repetitions, your dog will begin to associate the cue (“hug”) with the action of hugging you. The next step is to eliminate spontaneous hugs. Once he’s familiar with the “hug” cue, limit rewards strictly to times when your dog hugs in response to the command. If he gives you an unsolicited embrace, stand still or turn away and ignore him. Eventually, he will learn that he is only rewarded with praise or a treat or a return hug when you give the cue first.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Solving Fear Aggression in Dogs and Behavior Adjustment

It can be really painful for you as well as your dog when your dog is barking, lunging, growling or hiding as a result of fear aggression. The first thing to do is to prevent your dog from having more fearful outbursts while you get your training plan together. DogData has listed some things to consider below.

Begin by contacting your regular veterinarian to rule out medical problems in your fearful or aggressive dog. Consider contacting a veterinary behavioral specialist for a consultation and possibly medication. Try safe anxiety reducers like herbal calming supplements, DAP (Dog Appeasing Pheromone melatonin and Thundershirt.

Feed your dog a high-quality diet that is free of artificial additives, wheat, corn, and soy. Make sure your dog gets enough activity and stimulation. Teach your dog to wear a muzzle if there is a possibility he could hurt someone. (And teach your dog that wearing a muzzle would mean him having a treat)

Be a good leader to your dog to help make it worthwhile for him to listen to you. If your dog is afraid of people, do not allow unfamiliar people to approach him, instead, reward him for any social or friendly behavior with a treat.

Put him in another room with a great chew if he will be upset by the presence of guests. It will help him to feel more secure if the guests pretend that your dog is invisible. Keep yourself calm and upbeat at all times and tension off of his or her leash. Use the "Jolly Routine": act happy and joyful when you see something that you know your dog will fear.

Do not use physical punishments (yelling, hitting, collar corrections, etc) as this can convince your dog that what he or she is afraid of is even scarier than he first thought, or may cause him to hide his discomfort from you which can lead to what appears to be an unprovoked bite later on.

Learn all you can about canine body language so that you can tell when he is becoming upset.

The best way to help your dog behave better is to teach him that he no longer needs to be afraid or upset. You can do that by using a scientifically-based technique called desensitization and counter-conditioning. Here is an example of helping a dog that is fearful of cars:

Get some fresh meat or cheese and walk in a field near a street. Discover how far into the field away from the traffic you must go until your dog can pay attention to you instead of the cars. When your dog looks at a car going by, praise and then give him a treat. Gradually move closer to the road. If your dog cannot attend to you or is reacting to the car in a negative way you should retreat farther away. Soon your dog should see a car coming and happily look to you for his treat.

Be patient, as teaching him to change his feelings about something scary can take longer than regular "trick" training.

Behavior Adjustment Training for Fearful, Anxious or Aggressive Dogs

The Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT) by DogData is a great way to help your dog to be more comfortable with what he is fearful or upset about.

BAT uses desensitization together with a functional reward for calm behavior. Simply put, you begin at a distance where your dog can see what she is afraid of without reacting to it and when your dog shows calm body language, you move away from what she is afraid of as the reward. (You can also add a "bonus" reward of a treat or toy).

What is unique about BAT is the use of the "functional reward". You can think of the functional reward as what your dog wants to happen at that moment. In the case of a fearful dog, what the dog wants is generally for the scary thing to be farther away. A good functional reward for your dog's calm behavior in the face of what she is afraid of can be retreating farther away from it. If you can teach your dog that calmness will make what scares her get farther away, you've empowered your dog while solving lots of misbehavior problems that come along with anxiety such as barking and aggression.

While training using BAT, it pays to be careful about how you desensitize and how you read your dog's body language. When desensitizing your dog, the most challenging aspect will be controlling the environment so that your dog doesn't end up "over threshold", causing her to bark, lunge, etc. If you are working on teaching your dog that it is okay when dogs pass by and you consistently get too close and your dog ends up barking, you will most likely be exacerbating the problem instead of solving it. What you want is to be close enough so that your dog notices the stimulus and is maybe a bit concerned about it, but not enough for him to react fearfully.

It really helps in the training process to have someone helping you so that you can have control over the stimulus, but sometimes you can also get exposure to your dog's scary thing by "stalking" a dog walking trail or another predictable place where people pass by as long as you have enough space to "escape".

If your dog does end up barking or upset and you cannot wait for a moment of relative calmness before retreating, it is best to get away from the stimulus as quickly as you can and start over with a greater distance or lesser intensity.

It takes a bit of practice to read your dog's body language for calmness in order to know when to reward by retreating. A great side effect of learning this skill, however, is a better understanding of your dog. What you are looking for before retreating is "blinking, jaw loosening (being able to pant again), looking away, turning away, ground sniffing, air sniffing, tail carriage getting looser, friendly approach."

In summary, BAT can be an effective and gentle way to teach a dog to be calm about what he or she is scared of and is also a way to help relieve your dog's discomfort instead of masking (or increasing) it using corrections. How long it takes for you to see progress will vary greatly.

DogData wish you good luck on your training

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

​​​​​​​DogData Tips for Dog Safety

Do you have a dog or plan to get one? The earlier you start getting an education about Canines the better for you and your family. Parents and guardians should supervise all interactions between children and dogs. A child should not be left alone with a dog unless that child has demonstrated competent dog handling skills, has a knowledge of canine communication and dog and child share a long-established relationship based on mutual understanding, love and respect. 

Babies, toddlers, and young children should never be left alone with a dog. All interactions should be actively supervised.  Parents can educate their children about how to behave around dogs and how to recognize a bite risk situation. If a bite occurs the child should be reassured that she/he is not at fault.

The fault lies with the owner or adult handler of the dog. If a bite occurs the child should be seen by a doctor no matter how minor the injury may seem. In the case of a severe attack, trauma counseling should be sought for the child. The bite should be reported to the appropriate authorities.

Parents should teach children the following (these apply to their own dog, other dogs that they know and strange dogs):

Dogs do not like hugs and kisses. This is a major cause of facial bites to children. 

Do not approach dogs that are not their own, even if the dog is on a leash with its handler.

IF YOU, AS A PARENT, DECIDE THAT YOU THINK IT IS SAFE FOR YOUR CHILD TO APPROACH A PARTICULAR DOG - TEACH YOUR CHILD THE ABC APPROACH:

A: Ask your parent and the dog handler before you pet a dog as I said earlier

B: Be a tree if the dog is loose or too excited

C: Coochie coo on the side of the neck to pet the dog

Ensure that when a child visits a house with a dog, the dog will not be unsupervised with the children.

Teach your child to "be a tree" when confronted with an unknown, overly friendly or hostile dog. Stop. Fold your branches (hands) and watch your roots grow (look at feet) and count in your head until the dog goes away or help comes.

Teach your child to "be a rock" if the dog actually jumps on them and knocks them down (curl up and protect face and neck with hands and arms).

Never stare at a dog in the eyes or put their faces up to a dog's face.

Never go near a dog who is eating or drinking or chewing on something.

Never approach a dog that is on a bed or furniture.

Never approach a dog that is tied up or in a vehicle.

Never try to pet a dog through a fence or in a crate.

Never climb over a fence into a dog's yard, even if the dog is usually friendly.

Never try to break up a dog fight or interact with dogs that are play fighting.

Leave dogs alone that are sleeping, resting, injured, very old or with puppies.

Teach your child about canine body language

A safe dog is one that has a soft, relaxed, happy face and a wiggly body.

A dangerous dog has his mouth closed or mouth open with tight lips, ears forward, intense look, hard body.

A dog about to bite may be growling, showing his teeth, raising fur along his back or holding his tail high in the air (he may even be wagging it). He may freeze and stare.

Teach children to play safe games such as fetch that do not involve running or rough play and to play only with their own dog.

The Family Dog

Sometimes it is difficult for children to understand that the family dog may not always welcome their attention. It may seem hard to believe, but most bites to children are by the family dog or other dogs known to the child. Kids (and parents) assume that because the dog knows, likes or loves them that it won't bite them. Dogs don't think this way. A dog may snap or bite in annoyance because the child is bothering it at that moment, whether the dog loves the child or not.
Here is an example with which most kids can identify.

When you are home at night watching TV or reading a bedtime story you might like to sit on your Mom or Dad's knee or have them whisper "I love you" in your ear. However, if you are out on the soccer field or at school with your friends or acting in the school play you might not want to sit on a parent's lap or have them run out in the middle of the game or the play to whisper in your ear. It's the same for dogs. If they are busy doing something, or interested in another dog or a squirrel, or they are tired they may not want to have attention from you that they might enjoy at other times.

A dog may indicate that it wants to be left alone by leaving the room, showing a half-moon eye, yawning or licking its chops when the kids are bothering it for weeks, months or even years before finally getting to the point that it feels it has no choice but to bite.

Parents often tell us that the dog bit without warning, but there is always a warning. Many people simply do not recognize the warning signs, even though the dog has been exhibiting these for weeks, months or even years.

What we are saying is that the dog will tell you if it is uncomfortable in a situation with a child (or with you). As a parent and/or dog owner it is up to you to educate yourself and your children so that you all know what the dog might be feeling. Dogs give us a lot of love and joy and we know that you want your dog to be happy and to have a great relationship with the family. Learning about dog body language and emotion and developing empathy for dogs is a great way to help improve the relationship with your dog.

Realize that even the nicest dog can be pushed to the point of biting if multiple stressors come into play.

Other People's Dogs and Play Dates

You may not care about maintaining a good relationship with a dog, you just want to keep yourself and your kids safe. Dogs are everywhere and whether you love them, hate them or are indifferent, you and your kids are going to encounter them. It is important even for children who have dogs at home to learn that other people's dogs may not be as nice and tolerant as their own dog.

Everyone will benefit from understanding dog body language and knowing when it is best to leave a dog alone, or even to ask the dog's owner to put him away if you are visiting. If you or your child is uncomfortable around a dog, don't be shy! Ask the host to put the dog away. You could say something like this: "That is a lovely dog. I know he is friendly, but we are a bit uncomfortable around dogs. Would you mind putting him in another room or on a leash?".

If your child is going to visit at a playmate's house, ask if they have a dog and whether the dog will be confined when your child visits. If you are going to leave your child in a home daycare where there is a dog, be sure to visit, meet the dog and ensure that the dog will not be a threat to your child. 

In Summary

When you meet a strange dog always ask a dog’s owner if you may pet the dog. Some dogs shouldn’t be touched. He may be “on duty” as an assistance or service dog, or he may be injured, ill, or afraid of children.

Approach a dog from the front or side, not from behind. Hold your hands low and speak softly. Do not surprise a dog, force him into a corner, wave your hands in the air or scream at him.

If there’s one place a dog may get defensive, it’s at the food dish. Your dog should not growl when you get near his dish, but don’t interfere when a dog is eating.

Some dogs are very protective of their toys. Never take a bone or toy from a dog’s mouth unless he’s trained to drop it or give it to you.

Kids should avoid teasing, rough wrestling, or tug-of-war games. Dogs may get too enthusiastic in these sorts of games and forget you are not a dog. Fetch, frisbee, agility, and flyball are better outlets for your dog’s energy as a kid.

Respect a dog’s space. Dogs naturally defend their territories. Do not stick your hand inside a strange dog’s pen or car window. A dog may feel afraid and may react to protect himself or his territory.

Never try to break up a dogfight. While most fights end quickly, call an adult for help. Trying to separate fighting dogs or yelling at them may make them more excited, and they might turn on you or accidentally bite you.

Observe canine body language. Beware of a dog that is barking, growling, or showing his teeth. Stay away if his ears are back, the tail is up, or his hair is standing up on his back. Say “NO” firmly and slowly walk away with your arms by your side. Do not scream, stare into his eyes, or run away.

Tell your friends what you know. When friends come to your house, introduce them to your dog and explain the house rules.

 

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

How To Teach Your Dog to look and to Turn.  

In this article, we shall be talking about how to teach your dog to look and to turn.

"Look" is a useful command for helping your dog acclimate to a new situation or environment.

Is your dog easily distracted? Does he spend your entire walk lunging at squirrels and barking at people? Is he unable to pass a brightly colored umbrella or a playing child without wanting to investigate?

If your dog’s curiosity is slowing down your walks, there’s a solution. Training your dog to “look” on command can help keep him focused on where he’s going without missing any of the excitement that’s happening around him.

Training your dog to look in the direction of something novel, interesting or possibly even slightly unnerving may sound nonsensical. Why draw your dog’s attention to something that may excite or even upset him? When you teach your dog to “look,” you also train him to return his attention to you. This can help to make novel situations more predictable and give your dog a way to focus and avoid overreacting to something that might be scary or stressful — or just super exciting — for him.

Look Over There!

Hold an object your dog will be interested in — like a chew toy or a ball — behind your back, where your dog cannot see it. A toy with a squeaker or rattle can be helpful for catching your dog’s attention. You can also wiggle or wave the toy gently to catch his eye.

Ask your dog to look at you; once he is making eye contact, pull the hidden item out and hold it out to your side, away from where your dog is looking. Immediately mark and reward any glance or movement your dog makes in the direction of the object.

When you reward him, give the treat in such a way that your dog has to turn back toward you (and away from the exciting toy) to get his reward. To do this, hold the treat directly in front of your legs, at the level of the dog’s nose. This helps to reinforce the idea of looking at something and then shifting attention back to you, which is exactly what you’re trying to teach him.


Next, add a verbal cue “look” to the behavior. Say the word just as your dog starts to turn his head in the direction of the item. You can also watch your dog’s body language and note when he’s getting ready to turn toward the object. Eventually, you want to be able to use the “look” cue to point out interesting things before your dog sees them for himself.

Teach your dog to turn around

To teach your dog how to turn on command, start by holding a lure like a treat or a toy near his nose.

It's worthwhile to teach him some practical tricks, like how to turn on command. "Turn" can be useful in a variety of situations everything from changing direction on a walk to steering clear of a dangerous or problematic situation.

Once your dog can heel and has been taught to consistently walk on either your right or left side, you can introduce “turn.”

Teach your dog to turn

To encourage your dog to turn, use a favorite treat or toy as a lure. Hold the lure down low near your dog’s nose on the side the dog’s walking on. If your dog is tall enough, you can hold the lure in your hand. For smaller dogs, a spreadable soft treat on the end of a long-serving spoon will enable you to walk upright and still hold the lure near your dog’s nose.

Introduce the idea of the turn by giving a verbal cue “turn” and immediately move the lure in the direction you want the dog to go. Simultaneously, move your own body into the turn to keep the dog in a consistent location next to your side. This teaches your dog to follow your lead and turn in the same direction as you do.

During initial training, treat your dog for each small increment of the turn. As your dog starts to understand what you are asking him to do, increase the distance between treats, eventually rewarding him only when he has made the full turn.

Keep in mind that a left turn, a right turn, and a 180-degree turn will need to be practiced separately, as the logistics of each will vary. For instance, if you are turning left with a dog who heels on the left, use the lure to guide your dog to pivot in place as you move around him to make the turn. If you are turning right with a dog who heels left, you will need to reverse this process: While you pivot in place, use the lure to lead your dog through the turn.

Fade the lure, add distractions

As your dog begins to master the turn, work on fading the lure. Give the signal  “turn” and reward any sign of the dog moving with you. Once your dog responds to the command and turns, reward him with a treat from your pocket or a treat pouch. The goal is for your dog to synchronize his movement to yours when he hears the verbal cue.

Start by training in a low-distraction area, like your living room. As your dog begins to get the hang of the turn, move to more distraction-filled areas like your yard or the sidewalk in front of your home. Eventually, you can start to practice the “turn” command on walks through the neighborhood. Continue to praise your dog and to reinforce occasionally with treats this helps teach your dog to respond reliably to the cue because he never knows when he may get a treat.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Dog training tools

A 

A clicker is a tool used to mark or pinpoint the desired behavior with a clicking noise.

Dog training has its own language and its own set of tools. When your trainer suggests that you get your dog a mat or a crate, or that you work with him on a long line, what is he talking about?

With these handy devices, your dog will be well-mannered in no time.

B

Back clip harness: Harness on which the leash attachment is located over the dog’s back. This type of harness is typically comfortable and easy for a dog to adjust to, but it offers less control over the dog’s movements and can exacerbate pulling.

C

Cavity toys: See food puzzles.

Clicker: Tool used to mark or pinpoint the desired behavior with a clicking noise. There are a variety of clickers, from the standard box clicker, which makes a sudden, sharp noise, to more muted versions (like a ballpoint pen) for dogs that are more sensitive to sound.


Crate, kennel: Box-like shelter for a dog. Crates come in a variety of designs, including hard plastic, wire and soft-sided. Some crates are designed to fold up for easy storage.

D

Dog pen: Dog containment area created with fencings, such as exercise or X-pens or baby gates, in a play pen-like style. Dog pens can be used to prevent destructive behavior or to facilitate potty training. A dog run is an example of an outdoor dog pen.

F

Food puzzle: Toys designed to hold food or chews. The dog removes the food by using his teeth, tongue, paws, and mouth to manipulate the toy. Food puzzles require the dog to work for his food, which provides needed mental and physical stimulation.

Front clip harness: This type of harness has a leash attachment at the center of a dog’s chest. This allows the pet owner to gently control the dog’s movements and can help hinder pulling.

G

Gate: Portable gate or fence that can be used as a barrier to keep a dog confined to a specific area or away from an off-limits space. These may be marketed as baby gates or dog gates.

H

Harness: Alternative to a collar. Like a collar, a harness has a hook for the dog’s leash, as well as a place to put his ID tags. Many trainers believe that a harness is gentler than a collar, especially for small dogs or brachycephalic dogs, who can have their airways more easily damaged by a collar.

Head halter: A walking tool. The head halter consists of two parts: a section that fits around the dog’s neck like a collar and an attached piece that fits over the dog’s nose and wraps around his muzzle. The leash attaches under the dog’s chin area.

Leash

A leash is a fixed length of material with a clip at one end, which attaches to a collar or harness, and a handle at the other end for a person to hold. A fixed-length leash is one that does not expand or retract; commonly, a fixed-length leash is 4- to 6-feet long.

Lure: A stimulus that a dog will willingly follow. Treats are the most commonly used lure, but toys are another useful type of lure.

Long-lasting chews: These are chews that require extensive effort on the dog’s part to eat; they take a long time to consume. Dental chews, such as some of those with C.E.T. enzymes to help break down excess plaque, can fall into this category.


Longline: Leash available in a variety of lengths ranging from 8-feet long to upwards of 40-feet long. A longline allows the dog the freedom of being off-leash while preventing him from running away and can be used for training or play.

Mat: Similar in appearance to a cushion or blanket, a dog mat is a designated place to rest. Mat training teaches the dog to go to a place when he is asked, for example, the dog can be taught to go to his mat, rather than begging at the table during a meal. A mat is portable and can offer a dog a familiar place to rest in unfamiliar surroundings, such as the vet’s office or a friend’s home.

Retractable Leash: Leash with a handheld release that allows it to extend and retract with the movement of a dog. The leash can also be locked at the desired length. Though these are commonly used by pet owners, many pet professionals caution against their use, as they can be hazardous for both the pet owner and the dog.


Target stick: A long wand that can expand or retract as needed, with a ball on one end that the dog is trained to touch with a body part, commonly his mouth or nose. Some target sticks have a built-in clicker. A wooden spoon can be used in place of a target stick.

Tightening harness: Harness with a limited tightening feature, either on the back of the chest, where the leash clips on. The harness will tighten to a fixed degree if the dog pulls, and release when the leash is loose. This can offer the pet owner more control over pulling without causing a sharp pain to the dog, as choke or prong collars can do.

Training pouch, treat pouch: Pouch that holds treats and clips to a belt, pocket or waistband or has a fanny pack-style band that wraps around the waist. Larger training pouches can also hold other necessities, such as keys, a cellphone or waste bags.

Treat Stations: Areas around the home where treats are stored to make rewarding good behavior easier. Treat stations provide an alternative to carrying treats all the time. Concealing the treat containers keeps the dog on his best behavior, as he does not know when or where he might be rewarded.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

How the Dog breeding industry is affected by the outbreak of the Coronavirus

How the dog breeding industry is affected by the outbreak of the Coronavirus

The world has been greatly affected by the outbreak of coronavirus. A lot of people have lost their jobs and a lot have lost their businesses. The outbreak has hit a lot of industrial sectors and everyone seems to be scrambling for their lives at the moment. Global shares have taken a huge hit and there has been a big shift in the stock market and companies are been bought and sold. Investors are all afraid to invest because they think the outbreak would destroy economic growth and government around the world may not be able to stop the economic decline. In response, the central bank of several European countries are slashing interest rate and elsewhere in the U.S, the number of people filing for unemployment is on a record high.

What about the Travel sector? The travel sector is one of the most severely hit sectors in the world. Airlines have been cutting flight and tourist all around the world has been canceling their trips. Business people have also been canceling their business trips. The government of European countries and all over the world has placed enormous travel restrictions which have greatly resulted in the demise of the travel sector. The European Union has banned travelers for 30 days in a move to seal its borders and the number of flights across Europe and other parts of the world have taken a huge hit.

Elsewhere in China where the outbreak started Factories have greatly slowed down and industrial productions, sales, and investment have greatly been hit. China alone makes up a third of global manufacturing and is also the largest importer of goods around the world but restrictions have greatly affected its supply chain. It is estimated that Chinese car sales, for example, have dropped a massive 86%.

 

Did you know that the economic impact of the outbreak is so great that even traditionally safer investments have taken a massive hit? For example, Gold is traditionally considered a safe investment in terms of uncertainty. But recently the price of gold has taken a big hit because investors fear the impending recession. The oil sector has also taken a massive hit and prices of crude are at a record low since 2001.

Although the impact of the outbreak has hit a lot of industrial sectors none of the sectors has gone down 100%. Most of them still function to a degree. However, one sector hit the most is the pet sector and it is 100% none functional. This is because the pet registry governed by the kennel clubs is unavailable. All the dog organization is on a complete shutdown hiding away from the virus and people cannot get the information they need to process their dog sale.

 

 

 

Dog breeders are still having litters and they cannot get their puppies registered with kennel clubs. Veterinarians are also not able to register vaccination records of dogs. This would cause a lot of ripple effects for dog breeders and dog owners all around the world even after the outbreak is over.

In most parts of Europe, people cannot even touch money because of the fear of infection. If they can’t touch money how much more can they touch a dog certificate?. It's really a precarious state at the moment for dog breeders and dog owners all around the world.

 

There are a lot of dog breeders with litters who may wish to sell their puppies but because these kennel clubs are not functional to provide certificates, records and other vital information required to process the sale dog breeders are greatly handicapped. Elsewhere in African most breeders are already giving out their puppies to their neighbors and friends for free because they can’t process the sale of their dogs for those that rely on kennel clubs for dog registry. Puppies are getting older, breeders can no longer feed them and there is no way to sell the puppies due to the closure of kennel clubs.

Why is the problem so enormous for the pet industry? Kennel clubs and other dog organizations are in charge of dog registry including certification, vaccination records, and other medical records. They run a centralized database system where they completely govern the pet records. When they are not available then no one can get the information to process their dog sale. The outbreak of the coronavirus has greatly exposed the limitations associated with the centralized pet registry system.

 

What is the solution?

As a way of promoting the welfare of dogs, DogData has carried out a deep dive into how to solve the problems associated with the centralized system of the pet record system. We came up with a theory which we call “The DogData assumption reversal theory” and this is how it goes. Assumption reversal is a situation whereby you take the core notions in any context, discipline or context and then turn them on their head. It’s like going against the norm and of course, everyone knows that the norm in most areas of life is drastically changing. Here is a practical explanation of our theory

 

A couple of years back if you want to set up a taxi company, the first thing you would think of is to own a lot of Cars for your Taxi ride business. Now apply assumption reversal and turn that notation upside down and the reversal is that you do not need to own any car to run a Taxi company. Did you know that the biggest Taxi Company in the world today owns absolutely no cars? Yes, you heard me right, the biggest Taxi company by a mile which is UBER have no vehicles.

 

We are living through disruptions and the world has greatly changed. A lot of things are rapidly changing and so we have deployed cutting edge technological solutions to develop a system we call PedigreeChain Blockchain Explorer and it is disrupting the pet system of dog registry. In the past, the assumption is that you need to register your dogs with the Kennel clubs that run a centralized pet registry system. You also need records from those bodies to process the sale of your dog. All that would become prehistoric very soon and you need to move with the trend. The trend is blockchain technology and you do not need a third party to register your dogs and also process the sales of your dogs.

 

The PedigreeChain Blockchain Explorer runs on the block-chain technology and dog breeders, Dog owners, Veterinaries do not need third parties to capture their pet records or to process sales of their dogs. You can access the solution from where ever you are and the block-chain technology ensures data accuracy and data security through encapsulation and advanced algorithms. The advantages of our solution cannot be overemphasized and it is the future of tomorrow’s breeders and dog owners. You can use the solution at no cost, simply navigate to www.mydogdata.com and have a feel of the technological breakthrough

 

 

Copyright © 2018–2020 DogData Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Canine coronavirus. In short, is it a risk ?

At the time of writing, the COVID-19 pandemic has claimed a staggering 93,425 lives with a further 1,536,979 million confirmed cases, spanning 181 countries. Over the past few months, the Corona Virus strain, COVID-19 has spread from several individuals of China’s Wuhan province to all the 7 continents.

The global pandemic has far-reaching implications, not only to people’s health and wellbeing but to our economies and way of life. Amongst the concerns include the potential for the spread of COVID-19 from humans to their pets and vice versa. 

 

Corona Virus Variants

This isn’t a new concern, historically both Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome (SARS), derived from civet cats and Middle East Respiratory Syndrome (MERS), transmitted from dromedary camels’ variants of Coronavirus originated in animals and spread to people. DogData has yet to confirm if this is the case with COVID-19 but this is what we strongly suspect may have happened with the virus that caused the current outbreak of COVID-19.

However, we do not know the exact source of this virus and even the WHO does not know the exact source. DogData public health officials and partners are actively working hard to identify the source of COVID-19. The first infections were linked to a live animal market, but the virus is now spreading from person to person.

 

We are doing our best at DogData to better understand the pandemic just like other bodies are doing, but everyone still has much to learn. Until that time we recommend that individuals practice healthy habits around pets and other animals.’

 

You should protect yourself, such as when visiting live animal markets, avoid direct contact with animals and surfaces in contact with animals. Handle raw meat, milk or animal organs with care to avoid contamination of uncooked foods and avoid consuming raw or undercooked animal products.’

Corona Virus 50 years on

Corona Virus is not new to our canine friends. In 1971 the first case of canine coronavirus or CCV was identified in dogs. 49 years later varying strains of this enteric virus have been identified with different properties. This has largely been in part due to the constant evolution of the virus, through an accumulation of point mutations within the genome and genetic insertions or deletions.

DogData has deemed it a ‘highly contagious intestinal disease that can be found in dogs all around the world. CCV works by replicating itself inside the upper two-thirds of the small intestine of dogs, causing a range of symptoms from barely any to life-threatening conditions for dogs, especially if they have pre-existing virus infections or intestinal pathogens. Symptoms include diarrhea, vomiting, anorexia, and related depression. Full-grown dogs are typically unaffected the way newborn puppies are, but all can display some of the common symptoms.

CCV is typically spread as a result of exposure to infected canines’ feces. CCV viral strands can remain in the canine’s body for up to 6 months. Although vaccinations are available for CCV most veterinarian associations do no routinely promote it.

Opportunity in the crisis

Industries across the world are developing alternative means in which they conduct their business, most opting for digital remedies. This transition is a necessity in order to continue their business and avoid economic collapse.

It is apparent that the dog breeding industry needs technological innovation as well to help with controlling canine coronavirus vaccination. Currently, vaccination records of Dogs are managed by individual organizations and there is no way Government agencies around the world can accurately manage, coordinate and track vaccination records of our Dogs.

The PedigreeChain blockchain Explorer from MyDogData.com can be a ready made solution for recording what could become essential Dog life Data.

 

Copyright © 2018–2020 DogData Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Can I walk my Dog in Italy during the coronavirus outbreak?

Since the outbreak of the coronavirus in Italy people have been very confused about the restrictions. Can you take your dogs out on a walk? Can kids go to the playground? Can you go to the bank? These and many questions have swirled since the outbreak of Coronavirus. The Government of Italy imposed strict measures as a way of saving life in Italy as with many other countries.

 

Since March 22, Lombardy, where the virus outbreak is the most in Italy, can no longer go out except for walking their Dogs for no more than 200 meters from their home. This is also the case with many other parts of Italy and it seems the government has compassion for Dogs more than humans. Maybe because dogs have been man best friends for many centuries and they realize the importance of walking your dogs at this critical time.

Lombardy has been the forefront of the Coronavirus outbreak in Italy and the region accounts for around 50 percent of the total outbreak of the virus. The region was the first to put restrictions on movements but reports indicated that some continued to abuse the rules. Lately, the city has imposed more measures and anyone caught breaking the rules would be fined as much as €5,000 in Lombardy whiles the fine in other parts of Italy is €206. But despite the rules and the increasing number of coronavirus cases dog owners can still go out on a short walk with their dog. Surely one of the blessings that come with dog ownership.

The new coronavirus causes in most cases only mild or moderate symptoms, such as fever and cough but a few people would show no symptoms. However, the virus is known to affect older people most. The virus also has a strain that affects dogs which are known as the Canine Coronavirus and one of the ways of keeping your pets safe is by vaccinating them against the Canine Coronavirus. However, there is no vaccine for the strain that affects humans for now.

People are greatly faced with conflicting information from the Italian government, police and their fellow citizens. However as a way of promoting the welfare of people DogData has taking the initiative to clarify the restrictions in Italy. Here are they.

No visits even to your second home

Residents are strongly forbidden from visiting relatives and friends. You must stay in your main residence alone. If you have other properties you must stay away from them as well

Hotels to close

All tourist accommodation, including hotels and Airbnbs apartments, must remain closed. However, those in the following circumstances will be allowed to stay in the hotels or other commercial apartments

• Visitors forced to extend their stay because of unavoidable difficulties that prevent them from traveling back to their home or country
• People who work in an essential industry and are away from home because of their job
• Someone who is caring for a sick person
• People who live in such commercial residence before they work there

University dormitories, hostels, homeless shelters and accommodation that are managed by religious orders are not subject to the restrictions.

One person per family at the shops

Only one member of each family is allowed to go on shopping for essential commodities unless the person can prove that they need assistance from another family member

No more vending machines

Food, drinks and vending machines selling are no longer allowed to operate.

Building work halted

All construction work is suspended unless it's to build/maintain vital infrastructure. Repairs of vital structures that pose a risk to people can also be carried out.

Only essential businesses open

Supermarkets, pharmacies, newsagents and other essential items should remain open

Dog walk for not more than 20 meters from your home

Why is dog walk so important at this time?

Regular exercise with your dog is good for both your health and your dog's health and it can help people relieve stress at this troubled time. There's nothing like a dog been your exercise partner who's waiting by the door with a wagging tail to keep you motivated and excited. Over many centuries dog owners have enjoyed a lot of benefits including social benefits from owning dogs. Some of the health benefits of walking your dogs include improved cardiovascular fitness, lower blood pressure, stronger muscles and bones (built up by walking regularly), and decreased stress which is absolutely needed in a time when coronavirus is ravaging the world.

Walking with your dog is also beneficial to your pet because it can help reduce the chances of obesity. Obesity is associated with a lot of other medical conditions such as osteoarthritis, cardiovascular disease, liver disease, and insulin resistance etc. Most dogs would need a walk at least once a day especially active dogs while some may require more. The age and breed of your dog is also a factor of how many walks your dog would require. It is exciting that the Italian The Government of Italy understands the benefits of walking dogs and eased the restrictions on dog owners as a result. However, it is important to adequately protect your dogs and yourself while going out on a walk. Stay a few distance away from other people, properly protect your face and that of your dog's face with musk and ensure to do a thorough clean up when you return.

Stay safe and stay strong while we wait for the outbreak to come to a halt and normal life stops been like a movie.

 

 

 

Copyright © 2018–2020 DogData Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

DogData Cryptocurrency

What is cryptocurrency

Cryptocurrency is an internet-based medium of exchange and it uses cryptographical procedures to carry out financial transactions. As a way of ensuring security, transparency, immutability and decentralization it leverages blockchain technology. One of the biggest advantages of cryptocurrency and why it is accepted worldwide is because it is completely decentralized and not governed by any central bank of Government. Decentralization completely mitigates the challenges that exist in traditional banking and other financial systems.

Exchanges can be made directly between two parties through public and private keys and no third party would be involved in the transaction. When exchanges are made the processing fees are usually minimal and negligible which means users can avoid the charges that would be required while carrying out the traditional method of fund transfer.  As a result of its growing popularity most banks, government, big software organizations account firms and other major bodies are all researching the technology. DogData has taken the initiative to develop its Etherbone Token system which is an electronic form of the typical discount coupon used by many industries in many countries. As with cryptocurrencies, Etherbone Tokens are created using private blockchain technology to ensure that discounts can only be used once and your tokens would only be used by you. Etherbone Coins are a transferrable cryptocurrency and they use ERC20. Etherbone Coins are tradable on crypto market exchanges as well

Etherbone Tokens can also be mined and earned by Dog owners, Dog breeders or community contributors. Here are the ways Etherbone Tokens can be mined by various classes of people

Dog Owners

• You are paid with Etherbone Token when you update your dog information in DogData PedigreeChain solution
• You would be paid for uploading on the DataVault
• Paid for using Smart Dog Sale Contract
• You are rewarded with Etherbone Token for ScoreCard milestone achievements
• Bounty program rewards

Dog Breeders

• Paid for updating their dog information in the PedigreeChain
• Paid for uploading on the DataVault
• Rewards for ScoreCard milestone achievements
• Paid for DogData Breeders Predictions
• Paid for DogData Expert contributions
• Bounty program rewards

 

DogData Community Contributors

• Paid for DogData Expert social media content contribution
• Paid for judging virtual dog shows or dog
• grooming contests
• Bounty program rewards

Understanding the DogData Etherbone Characteristics

1) Irreversible: After a transaction has been confirmed a transaction cannot be reversed by anyone and not even the president of the United States.

2) Pseudonymous: All accounts and transactions are connected to the blockchain and none is connected to real-world accounts or identities. You get rewarded with Etherbone tokens to your wallet account when you participate in the DogData community programs.

3) Fast and global: Once transactions are propagated they are almost instantly confirmed in a couple of minutes no matter your location. Anyone can participate in the program and earn Etherbone Tokens and you don‘t need any form of permission to use it. Also, it can be used to purchase products and services on the DogData market place or as discount vouchers.

4) Secure: Etherbone Token funds are locked in a public key cryptography system and only the owner of the private key can use it

5) Permissionless: Anyone can participate in the program and earn Etherbone Tokens and you don‘t need any form of permission to use it. No one can prevent you and no one is a gatekeeper. Furthermore, the Cost of transactions is minimal because it runs on blockchain technology.

Crowdfunding 

Crowdfunding is a medium of raising funds or donations for organizations through friends, family, investors and the general public. Crowdfunding employs a different strategy from the traditional fundraising method. In crowdfunding, funds are raised through social media and other digital platforms to reach potential donors.

Business owners use small amount of capital raised from a large number of donors to finance a new business. It uses crowdfunding websites and social media sites to bring together entrepreneurs and investors to expand the business. In crowdfunding, an investor can select a particular project and invest on it with as little as $10 and then the crowdfunding site can generate revenue from the percentage of the raised fund.

DogData as a startup organization would be rolling out its Initial Exchange Offer (IEO) to increase awareness and raise funds through Crowdfunding. Its aim is to increase awareness of its Etherbone Coins and also increase awareness for the products and services offered by the organization. The fundraising campaign would be aimed at bringing Business people and entrepreneurs to invest in DogData and get rewarded. Most of the crowdfunding businesses and projects are reward-based and investors can receive financial rewards for their investments in DogData.

The benefit of Blockchain technology

Many people associate the blockchain technology with cryptocurrency and yes it is true that blockchain became very popular as a result of its first implementations by digital currencies. However, cryptocurrency is just one area of application and a lot of organizations are leveraging Blockchain technology to streamline their business processes. DogData have leveraged the blockchain technology to build 3 products, they are

• Utility Token also is known as Etherbone Token
• Smart Contract
• PedigreeChain Blockchain Explorer

Utility Token: The DogData utility token (Etherbone) runs on blockchain technology and it can be used on the DogData market place as a purchase discount voucher on a suggested welfare product. It can also be used in the market place for peer to peer smart contract welfare service solutions. Lastly, Etherbone Coins are tradable on crypto market exchanges.

Smart Contract: As a way to enforce authenticity of agreements between two parties without the need for a third party or escrow agents DogData has leveraged the Blockchain technology to build a smart contract solution. The smart contract can be used to digitally facilitate, verify and enforce the negotiation or performance of a contract between two parties. It ensures that credible transactions are carried out without third parties and the transactions are irreversible and traceable.

PedigreeChain microchip blockchain registration: There is a lot of issues associated with the centralized system of the dog information registry. Records are not accurate, not available when you need them, and records are easily lost. The PedigreeChain BlockChain explorer run s on the blockchain technology and can be used to capture your dog vaccination/immunization records, veterinary records, pet certificate, pedigree records and so much more.

Advantages of the Blockchain technology For DogData solutions

Blockchain technology is immutable and decentralized and it allows for verification without depending on third parties. It is much secured, data cannot be altered or deleted and it uses cryptography to secure data ledgers. All Token transactions that take place in blockchain technology are transparent and it completely mitigates against hacks. All records captured in the  PedigreeChian BlockChain explorer are authentic and immutable.

 

 

Copyright © 2020 DogData Inc, OU. All Rights Reserved.

The Growing Pet Industry

We are in a growing industry

Since the turn of the decade, the pet industry has been experiencing explosive and exponential growth. It is estimated by the American Pet Products Association that more than 1 billion families around the world have pets. It is also estimated that Pet ownership has risen as much as 70% over the last 30 years. In the USA alone more than half of the entire households have at least one pet (300 Million) while in the UK about 45 % of the entire household owns pets. Other nations with a high number of pets per household include Italy, China, Japan, South Africa, Sweden, Brazil, France, Germany, Belgium, etc.

Factors contributing to the growth of the Pet industry

One major factor responsible for the rise in Pet product sales and pet ownership is the birth of eCommerce and online purchase systems. More and more people can now have access to pets and buy them from all over the world. Changes in culture and lifestyle are also major factors responsible for the growth of the pet industry. As the younger generation (The millennial and Generation Z) has come into adulthood they have tremendously embraced the ownership of pets and today it can be said that the younger generation have more pets than their older counterparts. The statistics indicate that 62% of the pets around the world are owned by the younger generation while the remaining 38% is owned by the older once.

Another major factor responsible for the growth of the pet industry is the perceived health benefits they offer to humans. Based on scientific research people are happier and healthier when they bond and exercise with their dogs. Some of the health advantages of owning a pet include decreased blood pressure, less anxiety, better feelings of wellbeing and so much more. According to research conducted by the Human-Animal Bond Research Initiative Foundation pet ownership saves people a massive $11.7 billion in health benefit in the USA alone and $50.2 billion globally. This perceived benefit of owning a pet has greatly contributed to the rise of the pet industry.

We cannot take the growth of the pet industry for granted especially when compared to other consumer goods. The Pet industry revenue has shown significant growth even during times of economic trouble. Pet groomers are also seen a rapid increase in demand for their services including pet transportation, pet hotels or boarding, veterinary care, pet trainers and behaviorist, and so much more. However within the pet industry the food sector is has the highest sales while veterinary care followed next.

Regions accounting for the most Pet product sales

North American stands head and shoulders above every other continent in pet product sales. Asia pacific comes seconds and is significantly closing the gap. It is estimated that there would be an increase in pet food sales in Asia pacific of about $4 billion through 2023 while the rest of the world would experience a growth of about $7 billion. Europe follows next in pets and product sales while south Asia (Malaysia, Philippines, Indonesia, Singapore, Thailand, and Vietnam) are also huge markets.

 Here is a breakdown of the market scale

Total U.S. Pet Industry Expenditures

Year                 Billions of dollars

2020                 $99.0 Estimated because the year is still very young
2019                 $95.7 Actual sales figure

2018                 $90.5 Actual sales figures

 

UK

2019                5.1 billion British pounds - Actual Figures

veterinary market alone was worth 2.4 billion pounds.

2020                3.1 billion British pounds - Estimated Figures

 

China

2019                US$3.217 billion

2020                 US$5.212 billion       - Estimated and the figure is projected to reach US$67.125 billion in 2022,

 Other stats for 2019

Brazil                          $ 4, 630m

France                                     $4561.3 m

Italy                             $2159.3 m

Australia                     $2,580.7 m

France                         $4561.0 m

Nigeria                        $1, 550.5m

Russia                         $3,918.0 m

Germany                     $3,187.2m

Turkey                        $2718.1m

Thailand                      $1188.8m

Japan                           $2745.4

South Korea                $477.0m

India                            $444.7m

Greece                         $240.2 m

Poland                         $895.7 m

Sweden                       $489.5 m

Kazakhstan                 $ 413.4m

South Africa               $596.3

Paraguay                     $62.4m

Algeria                        $ 174.4m

Philippines                  $87.9m

Newzealand                  $30.6m

Bangladesh                  $152.5m

Conclusion

It’s a good time to be in the pet industry or become an investor. The market strength is growing as the day goes by and showing no signs of weakening. The annual spending on pets around the world has skyrocketed and it’s a good time to be a dog because it seems they are better taking care of than humans.

 

 

Average Revenue per Capita

Copyright © 2020 DogData Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Everything You Need To Know About Your Dogs Penis

Every part of your dog's body can be injured or affected by a disease, and this includes a dog’s penis. Problems affecting the penis are uncomfortable and maybe a sign of a potentially serious health condition.

In order to recognize when something is wrong with your dog’s penis, you need to know what normal looks like. Most of the time, what you see on the outside of a dog’s penis is actually the prepuce or sheath, the skin and other tissues that surround the non-erect penis. The penis itself is covered with a membrane, which gives it a bright pink or red coloration.

The dog penis is rigid even when not erect due to the presence of a bone called the os penis. And actually the penis gets erect when the male has penetrated the female. The bone helps the male penetrate the female even without erection.

Two glands called the bulbus glandis are located on either side of the base of the penis. Usually, when a dog penetrates the female the bulbus glandis swell with blood creating two readily visible bumps. This is what causes the dogs to lock. A dog’s erection may last for just a few minutes or up to an hour or so.

Knowing when your dog's penis is infected

Some dogs produce a surprising amount of smegma, and they will often lick their penis to remove it. Drainage from the prepuce and excessive licking is a common symptom of infections of the penis and/or sheath. So observe your male dogs very well. If your dog is licking more than he typically does, seems listless or otherwise ill, or his discharge has increased in quantity or changed in color, make an appointment with your vet.

Why dogs lick their penis?

A dog will lick his penis to help keep it clean, and probably also just because it feels good. Some dogs will lick or self-stimulate in other ways to the point where they get erections. And of course, there is a theory that animals masturbate. It is best to simply ignore this behavior unless it becomes excessive. If you also notice changes in the appearance of your dog’s penis or overall health then you contact your vet.

Excessive licking, especially when it is associated with other symptoms like increased drainage, pain, or lethargy, can be a sign of infection, injuries, or other problems with your dog’s urinary or reproductive tract.

Does blood come out from your dog’s Penis?

Blood may be seen coming from a dog’s penis as a result of wounds to the penis or prepuce, conditions affecting the urinary tract (infections, tumors, bladder stones, etc.), blood clotting disorders, and diseases of the prostate gland. Any dog who has blood coming from his penis should be evaluated by a vet.

Why do dogs penis sticks out?

Dogs will get occasional erections, even if they are neutered. If your dog’s penis becomes erect and visible for a period of time but then returns to being fully enclosed within the prepuce and all else seems to be normal, u probably don’t have anything to worry about.

That said, dogs will sometimes have persistent erections or not be able to retract the penis back into the prepuce due to hair that encircles the penis, neurologic problems, prostate disease, or anatomical abnormalities. If the penis is discolored or the normally moist tissues that cover it are becoming dry, take your dog in to see a vet immediately plz.

Difficulties with urination and permanent damage to the penis can occur in these cases without rapid treatment.

Is your dog's penis swollen?

A dog’s penis will become swollen during a normal erection. The enlargement of the bulbus glandis is especially obvious since it causes sizeable bumps to form on either side of the base of the penis. As long as a dog’s swollen penis returns to its normal size within an hour or so and the dog seems to feel fine otherwise, no vet treatment is usually necessary. But, if your dog’s penis remains enlarged for an extended period of time, or if you notice any other worrisome symptoms like lethargy, poor appetite, discomfort, or abnormal discharge from the prepuce, you should call your vet for advice. After mating always supervise that the penis goes inside back.
When ur male is mating with a female and they get locked it is very important to make sure the bitch is not tensed and trying to force her way out. U should be able to calm down the bitch and let her relax until the erecting reduces and the male is able to free from her. If she struggles too much it is covered for the male's penis to get ruptured. Furthermore, problems like infections, injuries, and tumors can also make a dog’s penis appear to be swollen.

Is the color normal?

A dog’s non-erect penis is normally enclosed by his prepuce, which is covered by skin and hair that looks similar to that found elsewhere on his body. When visible, the penis itself is usually pink or red but can become a darker purple during an erection.

The color should return to normal after the election is over. A small amount of yellow-white or slightly green-tinged discharge from the end of the prepuce is also normal. If you notice changes to the coloration of your dog’s prepuce, penis, or preputial discharge, make an appointment with your vet asap.

What is the discharge coming out from your dog’s penis?

A small amount of yellow-white or slightly green-tinged discharge from the end of your dog’s prepuce is usually normal. However, other types of discharge or discharge that come directly from the penis itself is often associated with a health problem. Dogs with bloody or pus-like discharge from the penis or prepuce should be seen by a vet plz.

Is there a rash on your dog's penis?

The skin-covered prepuce that surrounds a dog’s penis can develop rashes just like any other area of the body. Because the prepuce touches the ground whenever a dog sits or lies down, it frequently comes in contact with irritants, allergens, and insects that may bite. Parasites or skin infections can also cause rashes on a dog’s prepuce. A bath using cool water and a gentle soap might help if your dog’s rash developed due to contact with an allergen or irritant. Rashes that are severe, produce significant discomfort, or persist for more than a day or two should be evaluated by a vet. There are creams you can also use.

Is there a lump, growths or bump on your dog’s penis?

It is normal for lumps to form on either side of the base of a dog’s penis during an erection. These should disappear when the erection ends. Other lumps, bumps, or growths that persist on or around a dog’s penis are not normal and may be associated with injuries, infections, the presence of foreign material within the prepuce, inflammation, cysts, or tumors. Make an appointment with your vet.

We would be glad to give you a prompt answer if you have any questions about your dog's genitals or any other questions. You can ask your questions on our subreddit page https://www.reddit.com/r/MyDogData/

DogData Solutions

PedigreeChian BlockChian Explorer - PedigreeChian BlockChain Explorer runs on the blockchain technology and you can use it to capture your dog's records without the need of a third party. Blockchain technology ensures that records are secured, encapsulated, immutable and accurate. You can use the solution at no cost from any location.

Smart Contract - The Smart contract also runs on the blockchain technology and you can use to go into an agreement and also to enforce the terms and conditions of the agreement.  Your transactions and agreements are stored in blocks and records can not be altered. Furthermore, with the smart contract, you do not need a third party of an escrow agent anymore.

Utility Token - DogData Etherbone utility token can as a discount voucher,  medium of exchange for pet products and services. It has a global use and it can also be traded against other digital currencies. 

 

Copyright © 2018–2020 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

How exchanges are having increased traffic because of Bitcoin halving

 

As a result of the upcoming Bitcoin halving in May 2020 searches on Google for Bitcoin and other exchanges have hit a record high. The incredible volume of search indicates that there is a peak interest in cryptocurrencies all around the world. All through the 11-year history of Bitcoin there has never been this volume of traffic. The Traffic on search engines is so enormous that it is on par with the coronavirus. This has also led to an increase in traffic and demand for other digital currencies.

Every four years Bitcoin goes through a process known as having and the previous halving were in 2012 and 2016 respectively. This would be the third halving event in the history of the cryptocurrency giants. Halving is a mechanism that is aimed at reducing the reward per block mined on Bitcoin’s blockchain by as much as 50%. This means halving would cut the pace of supply expansion by 50% in a periodic interval of 4 years. After the Halving event by May per block reward would reduce from 12.5 BTC to 6.25 BTC.

Halving Explained

The crypto giant network issues New Bitcoins every 10 minutes and for the first 4 years of its existence, a total of 50 Bitcoins was issued in every 10 minutes. This number was cut in halve in 2012 in a process called halving. Therefore in 2012 the amount of Bitcoin issued every 10 minutes stood at 25. Halving in 2016 cut that figure to 12.5 BTC and now in 2020 halving would cut it from 12.5 BTC to 6.25 BTC. This is how Bitcoin cuts its supply.

The significance of Bitcoin Halving

Halving is aimed at cutting off the supply of new Bitcoins and in economics lower supply would result in a higher cost. This means halving would likely cause Bitcoin to surge in prices based on the principles of supply and demand. Historically Bitcoin Having has dramatically led to the rise in prices. Here is a stat to prove that

Halving in 2012

Price of Bitcoin on Halving Day = $12.35

Price of Bitcoin 150 days after Halving = $127.00

2016 Halving

• Price of Bitcoin on Halving Day =  $650.63
• Price of Bitcoin 150 Days after halving = $758.81

The surge in Traffic for Bitcoin and other exchanges

As a result of the halving coming up by May, there is a great rise in traffic. This surge in interest has greatly translated into actual purchases of Bitcoin and other exchanges. As at when this article was composed 1 BTC exchanges for $7,050 and this is at a time when the world economy is been ravaged by the coronavirus. At such one may associate the price stability with the search interest of Bitcoin halving. Other digital currencies are also experiencing a rise in demand

There are various models that explain the price implication of Bitcoin after the halving. Some experts are predicting that in the coming two months the price of Bitcoin would go as high as $100, 000. This is because halving would create an upward trajectory on the price of Bitcoin.

It is also important to know that the anticipated rise in the price of Bitcoin as a result of halving has meant fewer people are willing to sell their Bitcoin and the term “Buy Bitcoin” is down by as must as 35%. Rather there is an increase of people holding the address of 1 BTC or 0.1 BTC, this means people are accumulating their Bitcoins and here is a stat to prove that.

The number of unique addresses holding at least 1BTC is at a record high and it stands at 805,805 as at the time of writing this article. This is according to Glassnode which is a Blockchain intelligent firm.

The number of unique addresses holding 0.1 BTC is also at a record high of 2,984,777. This rise started late February in the early weeks when people began to search for Bitcoin halving.

Final Notes

There is clearly an increased retail interest in Bitcoin and its effects are positively rubbing off on other exchanges. However, halving is not the only reason for the increased traffic for exchanges / digital currencies. We are in an unprecedented era of money printing, money handling, and stimulus that has caused many people to turn to Bitcoin and other exchanges. In most parts of the world, people do not have access to money and most people are locked up at home. This has meant more and more people have turned to Bitcoin and other digital currencies as alternatives.

 

Copyright © 2018–2020 DogData Inc. All Rights Reserved.

History of trading bots on cryptocurrency exchanges

Cryptocurrency trading bots are little pieces of automated software tools that are used to execute trades on behalf of a trader. Recently developers have started using Artificial intelligence to power trading bots to make them smarter and more efficient. Traders have reported experiencing huge success when they deploy trading bots.

Trading bots are not new and previously they have been used by financial firms and markets to trade commodities, equities, and currencies. But the use of trading bots started in the Forex exchange sector around 2005. lately, trading bots have made its way into the Cryptocurrency sector and they offer a lot to crypto traders. Some of them are free while some are paid for and very sophisticated. There are different types of trading bots and all of them do not offer the same functionality and profitability. Some are more profitable, while others are easier to use. There are also open-source versions that can be downloaded on GITHUB and modified by developers. These bots would help you execute the most basic and advanced trading strategies in the world.

Evolution of cryptocurrency trading bots

When Bitcoin came around some 11 years ago there was nothing like a cryptocurrency bot. However, as traders started rising in numbers people thought of ways to outsmart others and so they began introducing trading bots into the cryptocurrency market. Over the years Cryptocurrency bots have continued to evolve in functionality and sophistication and today you would be at a very big disadvantage if you do not use a trading bot for cryptocurrency trading.

They operate by taking price data from the exchanges and then use the price data to calculate and estimate a range of indicators. After that, the trading bots would execute orders on behalf of the trader. Some advanced Trading bots also have built-in simulators and it gathers historical market analysis and data to test various trading strategies before implementing. Some of the advanced trading bots are cloud-based and operate 24/7, which means a trader does not need to keep their computers on every time because the bot is cloud-based and would work for you throughout the day.

Today some of the most popular and efficient cryptocurrency trading bots include

• Coinhopper
• Cryptohopper
• HaasBot
• CryptoTrader
• ZenBot
• GunBot

If you want to achieve success in crypto trading by doing the minimum then Crypto trading bots can do the trick for you. Trading bots helps people minimize work while maximizing returns

Like mentioned earlier, there are some free trading bots out there but most of the free bots are not so efficient.

 

Difference between human traders and bots

Humans are emotional and when it comes to trading money sometimes we do not make the right decision because of our emotions. This means our emotions can make us either make a good or bad decision and in most cases, we end up making the wrong decision which can ruin our potential profitability. Sometimes people don’t understand when they need to sell and make a profit and sometimes we just panic and dump everything. Whereas a well-programmed cryptocurrency bot is the opposite of humans and employs a rule-based approach. This approach means a bot would in most cases make the right decision and consistently make a profit over time. A well-programmed bot adopts a slow and steady approach thereby outdoing human traders over time

 

Types of Cryptocurrency Trading Bots

There are basically three types of Cryptocurrency Trading Bots and it is important to understand how they work before deploying them.  

1. Trend-following Systems

The cryptocurrency market is known for three things: Volatility, devastating bear markets, and huge bull runs. A trend system of the trading bot would capitalize on these three factors responsible for price moves. It would keep a trade open until a counter trade signal is giving and helps the trader make money off the move between these three factors. This type of bot simple sticks with the price trend and buy when the price goes up and sell when the price goes down. This strategy might sound very easy but very difficult to implement by a human due to emotional factors. Over the history of trading bots trend, bots are known to be the most profitable bots.

 

2. DCA Systems

DCA is an acronym for Dollar-cost averaging and it works by spreading your buying over time. One of the biggest benefits with this system is that it evens out a lot of the market volatility by averaging your entry price but it could as well mean diminished returns. With this type of bot, you have to keep on putting in money because if you don’t your cryptocurrency would never grow.

 

3. Scalp Bots also known as range-bound

When the price isn’t trending down or up it often moves forward or backward thereby creating a range. These ranges are known as consolidated periods and they can take away the profits from Trend Bots. A scalp bot is programmed to consolidate and sell off if the price gets too far above a particular set point. It is also programmed to buy if the price goes too far below. This means the trader would have to manually enter take profit points with the scalp bots.

The scalp bot does make money for traders but there is certainly more money to be made from the trend bot.

 Advantages of the Cryptocurrency Trading bots

• The crypto markets never close and run 24/7. Using a cryptocurrency trading bot lets you catch every trade that you’d otherwise have missed because nobody would be able to keep their computers on 24 hours a day and trade. But a cloud-based cryptocurrency trading bot never sleeps and works night and day for the trader.
• Proven results. A well-programmed bot will analyze future and historical data to give you the best result.
• Removes emotion. Emotions are a big factor that determines the profitability of a trader and cryptocurrency bots completely eliminate against such. They help you make the right decisions at the right time thereby eliminating bad trades.
• You don’t actually have to learn how to trade. Learning cryptocurrency trading takes months to master and in most cases, you would have to learn for the rest of your life. With an automated bot, you do not need to learn anything and you can start trading immediately you deploy the bot.

 

 

 

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

DogData Tips for Dog Safety

Do you have a dog or planning to get one? The earlier you start getting education about Canines the better for you and your family. Parents and guardians should supervise all interactions between children and dogs. A child should not be left alone with a dog unless that child has demonstrated competent dog handling skills, has a knowledge of canine communication and dog and child share a long-established relationship based on mutual understanding, love and respect.

Babies, toddlers, and young children should never be left alone with a dog. All interactions should be actively supervised. Parents can educate their children about how to behave around dogs and how to recognize a bite risk situation. If a bite occurs the child should be reassured that she/he is not at fault.

The fault lies with the owner or adult handler of the dog. If a bite occurs the child should be seen by a doctor no matter how minor the injury may seem. In the case of a severe attack, trauma counseling should be sought for the child. The bite should be reported to the appropriate authorities.

Parents should teach children the following (these apply to their own dog, other dogs that they know and strange dogs):

Dogs do not like hugs and kisses. This is a major cause of facial bites to children.

Do not to approach dogs that are not their own, even if the dog is on leash with its handler.

IF YOU, AS A PARENT, DECIDE THAT YOU THINK IT IS SAFE FOR YOUR CHILD TO APPROACH A PARTICULAR DOG — TEACH YOUR CHILD THE ABC APPROACH:

A: Ask your parent and the dog handler before you pet a dog as I said earlier

B: Be a tree if the dog is loose or too excited

C: Coochie coo on the side of the neck to pet the dog

Ensure that when a child visits a house with a dog, the dog will not be unsupervised with the children.

Teach your child to “be a tree” when confronted with an unknown, overly friendly or hostile dog. Stop. Fold your branches (hands) and watch your roots grow (look at feet) and count in your head until the dog goes away or help comes.

Teach your child to “be a rock” if the dog actually jumps on them and knocks them down (curl up and protect face and neck with hands and arms).

Never stare at a dog in the eyes or put their faces up to a dog’s face.

Never go near a dog who is eating or drinking or chewing on something.

Never approach a dog that is on a bed or furniture.

Never approach a dog that is tied up or in a vehicle.

Never try to pet a dog through a fence or in a crate.

Never climb over a fence into a dog’s yard, even if the dog is usually friendly.

Never try to break up a dog fight or interact with dogs that are play fighting.

Leave dogs alone that are sleeping, resting, injured, very old or with puppies.

Teach your child about canine body language

A safe dog is one that has a soft, relaxed, happy face and a wiggly body.

A dangerous dog has his mouth closed or mouth open with tight lips, ears forward, intense look, hard body.

A dog about to bite may be growling, showing his teeth, raising fur along his back or holding his tail high in the air (he may even be wagging it). He may freeze and stare.

Teach children to play safe games such as fetch that do not involve running or rough play and to play only with their own dog.

The Family Dog

Sometimes it is difficult for children to understand that the family dog may not always welcome their attention. It may seem hard to believe, but most bites to children are by the family dog or other dogs known to the child. Kids (and parents) assume that because the dog knows, likes or loves them that it won’t bite them. Dogs don’t think this way. A dog may snap or bite in annoyance because the child is bothering it at that moment, whether the dog loves the child or not.
Here is an example with which most kids can identify.

When you are home at night watching TV or reading a bedtime story you might like to sit on your Mom or Dad’s knee or have them whisper “I love you” in your ear. However, if you are out on the soccer field or at school with your friends or acting in the school play you might not want to sit on a parent’s lap or have them run out in the middle of the game or the play to whisper in your ear. It’s the same for dogs. If they are busy doing something, or interested in another dog or a squirrel, or they are tired they may not want to have attention from you that they might enjoy at other times.

A dog may indicate that it wants to be left alone by leaving the room, showing a half-moon eye, yawning or licking its chops when the kids are bothering it for weeks, months or even years before finally getting to the point that it feels it has no choice but to bite.

Parents often tell us that the dog bit without warning, but there is always a warning. Many people simply do not recognize the warning signs, even though the dog has been exhibiting these for weeks, months or even years.

What we are saying is that the dog will tell you if it is uncomfortable in a situation with a child (or with you). As a parent and/or dog owner it is up to you to educate yourself and your children so that you all know what the dog might be feeling. Dogs give us a lot of love and joy and we know that you want your dog to be happy and to have a great relationship with the family. Learning about dog body language and emotion and developing empathy for dogs is a great way to help improve the relationship with your dog.

Realize that even the nicest dog can be pushed to the point of biting if multiple stressors come into play.

Other People’s Dogs and Play Dates

You may not care about maintaining a good relationship with a dog, you just want to keep yourself and your kids safe. Dogs are everywhere and whether you love them, hate them or are indifferent, you and your kids are going to encounter them. It is important even for children who have dogs at home to learn that other people’s dogs may not be as nice and tolerant as their own dog.

Everyone will benefit from understanding dog body language and knowing when it is best to leave a dog alone or even to ask the dog’s owner to put him away if you are visiting. If you or your child is uncomfortable around a dog, don’t be shy! Ask the host to put the dog away. You could say something like this: “That is a lovely dog. I know he is friendly, but we are a bit uncomfortable around dogs. Would you mind putting him in another room or on a leash?”.

If your child is going to visit at a playmate’s house, ask if they have a dog and whether the dog will be confined when your child visits. If you are going to leave your child in a home daycare where there is a dog, be sure to visit, meet the dog and ensure that the dog will not be a threat to your child.

In Summary

When you meet a strange dog always ask a dog’s owner if you may pet the dog. Some dogs shouldn’t be touched. He may be “on duty” as an assistance or service dog, or he may be injured, ill, or afraid of children.

Approach a dog from the front or side, not from behind. Hold your hands low and speak softly. Do not surprise a dog, force him into a corner, wave your hands in the air or scream at him.

If there’s one place a dog may get defensive, it’s at the food dish. Your dog should not growl when you get near his dish, but don’t interfere when a dog is eating.

Some dogs are very protective of their toys. Never take a bone or toy from a dog’s mouth unless he’s trained to drop it or give it to you.

Kids should avoid teasing, rough wrestling, or tug-of-war games. Dogs may get too enthusiastic in these sorts of games and forget you are not a dog. Fetch, frisbee, agility, and flyball are better outlets for your dog’s energy as a kid.

Respect a dog’s space. Dogs naturally defend their territories. Do not stick your hand inside a strange dog’s pen or car window. A dog may feel afraid and may react to protect himself or his territory.

Never try to break up a dogfight. While most fights end quickly, call an adult for help. Trying to separate fighting dogs or yelling at them may make them more excited, and they might turn on you or accidentally bite you.

Observe canine body language. Beware of a dog that is barking, growling, or showing his teeth. Stay away if his ears are back, the tail is up, or his hair is standing up on his back. Say “NO” firmly and slowly walk away with your arms by your side. Do not scream, stare into his eyes, or run away.

Tell your friends what you know. When friends come to your house, introduce them to your dog and explain the house rules.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

How To Know When Your Dog is in Pain?

Sometimes our dogs can be in pain but they cant express it to us and am sure none of us can stand to see our beloved pets in pains. Even when our dogs aren’t eaten it affects us emotionally.

Sometimes it can be very difficult to know whether or not ur dog is in pain. But other times its obvious.

There are signs u can look for that might indicate your dog is experiencing pain.

Dogs in pain are more likely to bite so be careful. They could loss appetite as well. Breathing heavy, heart rate, and even appearance can all change when ur dog is experiencing pain.

If you have a good idea of your dog’s “normal” which includes his normal attitude, energy level, gait, appetite, thirst, sleep patterns, and other physical and behavioral patterns then it would help you know when his probably in pains or sick.

When evaluating your dog for potential pain, please take great care to not get yourself (or anyone helping u) bitten. Don’t allow family members and friends go close to him during such times. Even if ur dog would never normally bite anyone, the mere fact that ur evaluating your dog for pain indicates that this may not be a normal time.

Dogs in pain are more likely to bite. This is true even with their owners and other people they know. And it happens more when a person touches or moves the painful area. So once u observe the area of pains avoid touching such spots.

Breathing Changes:
Dogs experiencing pain may have a faster and more shallow breathing pattern than normal. They may also pant.

Heart and Pulse Changes:
Dogs in pain will often have an increased heart/pulse rate. The rate often noticeably speeds up when the painful area is touched or moved.
U can learn how to measure your dogs heart rate at home. Contact a technician to teach u.

Posture Changes:
Dogs who are in pain may assume a very rigid stance, while others may assume the “prayer position” with their front legs on the ground, their butt up in the air, and a stretch throughout their abdomen. Some dogs in pain will lie around more, while others may experience difficulty laying down.

It all depends on the type, location, and severity of the pain.

Eye Changes:
The eyes can be great indicators of pain in dogs. They change both for eye pain itself and for pain elsewhere in the body. Often pain elsewhere in the body will result in larger (dilated) pupils, while pain in the eye(s) can result in either larger or smaller (constricted) pupils.

If their eyes are in pain, the affected eye(s) may also appear bloodshot.

Food and Water Changes:
Dogs in pain often eat and drink less than normal. When they do eat and drink, if the cause of their pain is their teeth or some other part of the mouth, they may drop food and/or water from their mouth.

Energy Level Changes:
Most dogs in pain will have a general decrease in their activity level. This often shows as a dog who sleeps more. It may also manifest as a dog who simply runs and/or jumps less than normal.

Mobility Changes:
Dogs in pain often move around less. However, depending on what hurts, they may still move around the same amount, but do so differently (i.e. with a limp, or more slowly when going up or down the stairs, etc.)

Pooing Changes:
Dogs who have back pain, for any reason, may have difficulty with the posture needed to defecate. So they may struggle to do that.

Body Contour Changes:
If u observe swellings, be they on your dog’s legs, body, or face, could be an indication of a painful condition, such as infection, inflammation or others.

It’s important to speak with or see your vet any time ur dog is in pain, or if u think they may be.

For dogs suffering from arthritis fish oil which has anti inflammatory properties can help.

Copyright © 2019–2020 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Many of us know that dogs see everything in black and white, but this is not true!

Dogs are able to see only shades of gray. In fact, dogs are able to distinguish other colors, but they do not see them as bright as most people see them.

The eyes of dogs, as well as people, have special light-sensitive receptors called cones, which help distinguish colors. Dogs have fewer cones than humans, so the colors they perceive are not as saturated as we see them.

What colors do dogs distinguish?

Dogs can distinguish between shades of yellow, blue, and brown, as well as various shades of gray, black, and white. This means that if your dog has a red toy, it will appear brown to it, and an orange toy, which is a mixture of red and yellow, will appear brownish-yellow.

If you want to fully engage all the senses of your pet while playing, you should select blue or yellow toys to make them stand out against the dimmer shades of brown and gray in your dog’s field of vision. This explains why animals are so fond of bright yellow tennis balls.

Do not be upset because your dog sees the world in muted tones: what it lacks in vision, it more than makes up for with its other feelings.

First of all, dogs can hear a much wider range of frequencies than humans.

Dogs ‘ sense of smell is at least 10,000 times (if not more) stronger than that of humans. Moreover, the part of the animal’s brain responsible for smell analysis is forty times larger than that of a human. All this means that your dog can “see” pictures with its nose that are much brighter than we can imagine.

The next time you look into your puppy’s expressive eyes, don’t be upset that he doesn’t see you as clearly as you see him. Your special smell tells the dog more about you than just looking at you, and it will recognize your smell anywhere, whether it sees you or not.

Copyright © 2019–2020 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

How To Properly Care For The Dog’s Eyes?

Dog faces can be cute, adorable, joyful, soulful, noble, and commanding. They are capable of communicating a wide range of emotions. And they have the power to look deeply into our souls and touch us on an elementary level. They are also prone to attracting schmutz and getting dirty.

Let’s be realistic: A dog puts his nose into everything from soil to garbage to food bowls. And the faces of even short-haired breeds can need routine grooming to keep them free of clumps, stains, dried food particles, and other blotches.

Here are some tips to help with casual face grooming:

Cleaning your dog’s eyes.

You’ve probably noticed the globs that can form around your dog’s eyes. Using a water-moistened washcloth or sponge, very gently wipe the area around the eye to loosen and remove this dirt. Never wipe the eye itself. And be sure to approach this area slowly so you don’t startle your dog. Moistened cotton balls can also be used to help you target the specific area around the eye where the glob has formed. Never use soap or shampoo near your dog’s eyes because this may cause irritation — or even damage your pooch’s eye.

Tear stains.

Also called “Poodle Eye,” tear stains are dark blotchy areas that form on the hair under the eyes of some dogs — and they don’t have to be poodles. In fact, cats can get tear stains, too! This discoloration is particularly obvious in lighter-colored dogs. The “stains” are caused when the eye expresses an excessive number of tears, which react with the bacteria in the hair. If tear stains are a chronic problem with your pet, it may indicate that is an underlying medical cause, such as infected tear ducts. You should bring this to the attention of your veterinarian. If routine cleaning with a moist washcloth doesn’t remove the stains, you can try solutions that are specially made for this condition. You can find them in pet-supply stores. Be sure to follow the directions.

Copyright © 2019–2020 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

How To Brush A Dog’s Teeth?

Oral care is as important for dogs as it is for humans. Good dental care doesn’t end with brushing. Certain chews and treats can also help you fight plaque buildup. And don’t forget to schedule regular professional dental cleanings. Talk with your vet about how often is right for your dog.

Let’s talk about it in more detail.

Step One: Find the Right Time

Brush your dog’s teeth when she’s calm and relaxed. Your goal: Set a routine.

Step Two: Gather Your Tools

You’ll want to use a toothbrush made for dogs. The bristles are softer and specially angled. Finger brushes can work well for dogs under 30 pounds. For larger dogs, longer handles can give you better reach. Never use human toothpaste; it contains ingredients that may hurt your dog’s stomach.

Step Three: Assume the Position

Make sure you’re in a spot where your dog is comfortable. Don’t stand above your dog, hold her down, or take a threatening stance.

Step Four: Get It Gums Ready

Test your dog’s willingness to have you touch her mouth by rubbing your finger along her upper gums and teeth. Use light pressure.

Step Five: Test the Toothpaste

Put some dog toothpaste on your fingertip. Let your dog lick the toothpaste from your fingertip so that she can get used to the texture and taste.

Step Six: Use a Circular Motion

Brush in small circles, getting top and bottom on each side. As you move the bristles along the gum line, some light bleeding may occur.

Step Seven: Focus on the Plaque

Brush a few teeth at a time, working up to more each day. Aim for two minutes in total. If your dog resists at first, try starting on the outsides of the canine and back teeth, where plaque tends to collect.

Step Eight: Be Reassuring

Keep the mood light while you’re brushing your dog’s teeth.

Step Nine: End on a Positive Note

When you’re finished brushing your dog’s teeth, reward her with her favorite treat or extra attention. Always stop when everyone’s still having fun.

How often do I brush my dog’s teeth?

Veterinarians do not give a clear answer to this question — it all depends on the individual characteristics of your pet. Everyone agrees on one thing: regularity is important here. Dogs of small breeds are more prone to problems with their teeth, so you need to pay special attention to their oral care.

Copyright © 2019–2020 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

How Often Do You Walk Your Dog?

Most dogs tolerate up to 10–12 hours between walks. It is enough to walk with them twice a day-in the morning and in the evening. But if your dog has problems with the nervous or genitourinary system, the number of walks can increase to three or four a day.

With puppies walk more often-every 2–3 hours. They can’t stand it any longer for physiological reasons, so don’t scold them for home mistakes. For a couple of months, the puppy will enter the mode and get used to tolerate between walks for six hours or longer.

The length of the walk depends on the age and breed of the dog.

For calm, decorative, or age-related dogs, one and a half to two hours a day will be enough. For hunting and young dogs, the time increases to three or four hours. Sled dogs need to walk even more or include intensive exercise in the walk.

The morning walk is usually shorter than the evening walk — it takes 30 minutes. The evening walk is more thorough, during which the dog needs to spend all the energy accumulated during the day.

What should be included in the walk?

During the walk, the dog must have time to :

• Satisfy their natural needs;
• Run 2–3 times for 5–10 minutes;
• Communicate with other dogs;
• Walk “next” to you, without being distracted by others;
• Train a couple of commands and get a treat for it.

Follow these tips and your dog will be grateful to you.

Copyright © 2019–2020 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

How Often Do Cut Your Dog's Claws?

Plenty of pet parents — and their dogs — are less than thrilled about the prospect of regular nail trimmings. But did you know that cutting your dog’s nails is one of the most basic and effective things you can do to help maintain their joint and bone health? Especially as your dog enters their senior years and becomes more prone to joint diseases like arthritis, trimming their nails regularly — and often enough — is paramount to keeping unnecessary stress of their aging joints.

Many dogs that can often run on a hard surface (asphalt, gravel), usually gnash their claws naturally, but if the dog rarely walks, runs a little on soft grass or snow, this procedure has to be done manually. On rudimentary (fifth) fingers, the claws usually remain intact and require care.

Usually, the claws should be blunt, short, and the standing dog barely touches the ground.

The overgrown claw has a sickle-shaped shape and a sharp end, the dog when walking “spreads his paw” — spreads his fingers, can limp. You may hear a distinctive click.

To keep the claws in order, you should examine the paws at least once every 7–10 days.

How Often to Trim Your Dog’s Nails?

Each claw is divided into two parts: a keratinized one and a live one containing a blood vessel and a nerve.

It is necessary to cut the claw in the lower third. In dogs with light claws, the border between the dead and living parts of the body is clearly visible in pinkish color. The clippings should be slightly removed from it. If the dog has black claws, you can only cut off the sharp tip of the claw, slightly curving down. For this procedure, special nail clippers or nail clippers are suitable, but you can not use regular scissors. The cut is cut with a nail file or nail file.

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How To Bathe Your Dog ?

If you have a dog or are thinking of welcoming a pet dog into your life, it’s important that you know about grooming and bathing care. Bathing and grooming your dog will not only keep them clean and healthy but you and your home as well.

· If you are living in the city the dog must be washed frequently — once every 1–2 weeks, because both in the air and on the ground there are a lot of different substances that pollute the animal’s hair.

· If you are living outside the city, where the dog brings only sand and plant debris, and cleans naturally, you can limit combing and washing once every 2–3 months.

· Of course, the care of the coat of representatives of different breeds differs significantly. So, long-coated individuals, especially light colors, require more frequent and careful care, and short-coated ones will feel comfortable bathing once a quarter.

What cosmetics do I need to use?

It is recommended to use special cosmetics for dogs. Other products can harm your pet’s health and lead to skin problems.

Dog skin is different from human skin: it is thinner and has a different level of acidity

How to bathe your dog?

1. Put a rubber Mat in the bath or shower so that the dog’s paws do not slip and it is more comfortable to stand;

2. The bathing water should be warm and comfortable for your hand.

3. You need to soap the dog very carefully. It is better to start from the back of the pet, then move to the paws and stomach. The head should be washed last: you need to make sure that the shampoo and water do not flow into your eyes and ears.

4. After the shower, you need to thoroughly wipe your pet, paying special attention to the ears;

5. It is important to make sure that the apartment is warm enough and there are no drafts, as a wet dog can easily catch a cold;

6. If the dog’s coat is prone to tangling, it should be combed before bathing, and then dry with a hairdryer. As in the case of water, it is important that the air was not too hot.

These tips will help you to take care of your dog in a safe way.

Copyright © 2019–2020 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Dog Coat Care

The coat of the domestic dog refers to the hair that covers its body. The nature and quality of a purebred dog's coat is important to the dog fancy in the judging of the dog at conformation shows.

Many feel it does not make any sense, caring for their dogs especially when it comes to their coats. Some are of the opinion that since it has to be a Dog, lesser care should be given. Many dog breeders still believe that the outlook of their dogs defines who they are, and what they stand for. 

Why It Matters?

A lustrous coat signals vitality and can indicate the health status of a pet. Pets with a dry, flaky, or unkept coat may be suffering from conditions such as thyroid disease, hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing's disease), kidney or liver disease, or nutritional disorders. In fact, one of the main ways your veterinarian assesses the health of your dog is by looking at the condition of her coat and skin.

A dog's coat provides insulation both from hot and cold. It keeps them dry, and it protects their largest organ – the skin – from the external environment.

The key to understanding this subject lies in finding answers to the following questions.

1. How can I improve my dog's coat?

• Bathe your dog regularly.

• Brush your dog. 

• Provide him with quality food.

• Give your pup healthy treats.

• Protect your dog against parasites.

• Use coconut oil.

• Try an oatmeal bath.

• Add omega fatty acids to your dog's diet.

 

  2.  How can I maintain my dog's coat? 

1. • Keep Your Pet Brushed and Bathed.

   • Train Your Pet.

   • Treat Any Medical Issues.

   • Keep Bedding Fresh and Clean.

   • Clean the Living Room.

   • Get the Kitchen as Healthy as Possible.

 

What roles does my pet’s coat play in his health?

Besides being pretty to look at, your pet's coat plays a vital role in their health; it functions as an important part of the immune system and is critical to maintaining proper hydration. The following are some of the basic functions of the coat:

• Protection. The coat provides a barrier that protects a dog from external objects, chemicals, and environmental stressors. In simplest terms, the coat protects the internal organs from external threats. Additionally, the coat protects pets against chemical damage, trauma, ultraviolet light, and contact with hot surfaces.

• Thermoregulation. A healthy coat helps keep a pet's temperature properly regulated by providing an insulating layer of fur. A healthy coat can efficiently regulate body temperature by moving hair follicles to bring hairs closer together to insulate or allow air to enter under looser hairs to cool a dog. A pet can also warm herself by shivering.

 

The key to a healthy coat begins with your pet's diet. If you are concerned about how your dog coat looks, ask your veterinarian if an underlying nutritional or medical condition is to blame. With a clean bill of health and a proper diet, your pet will be well on his way to looking as good as any movie star dog!

 

At DogData, the Welfare and Well being of Your Dogs are of great concern to us!  

Copyright © 2019–2020 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

DOGS: Man’s Best Friend

For so long, dogs have been tagged to be man’s best friend both in sickness and in health. Scientific studies have proved the importance of owning a dog at home. Looking also into how they might boost our well-being. In this Spotlight, we’ll explain how your friendly pup can benefit your health across the board.

It is likely that humans and dogs have shared a special bond of friendship and mutual support ever since at least the Neolithic period — but why has this bond been so long-lasting?

Dogs also are known to be the cousins of wolves have historically been great at keeping us and our dwellings safe, guarding our homes, our cattle, and our material goods.

However, dogs are also — and might have always been — truly valued companions, famed for their loyalty and seemingly constant willingness to put a smile on their owners’ faces.

Let’s discuss how our dogs make us happier, more resilient when facing stress, and physically healthier, to name but a few ways in which these much-loved quadrupeds support our well-being.

Dogs keep you in good health

Many studies have suggested that having dogs as pets is associated with better physical health. How?

• Dogs "force" their owners to take daily exercise.

There is no way around it: if you own a dog, you have to commit to twice daily walks — and sometimes even more.

• Dogs can strengthen our health not just as we grow older, but also much, much earlier than that: before we are even born.

Research published suggests that children who were exposed to dogs while still in the womb — as their mothers spent time around dogs during pregnancy — had a lower risk of developing eczema in early childhood.

Also, children exposed to certain bacteria carried by dogs also experienced a reduction of asthma symptoms, the researchers noted.

• Dogs make people feel good

The most intuitive benefit of sharing your life and home with a canine friend is that dogs give you "feel-good vibes" almost instantly.

Dogs are often used as therapy animals because they have a calming effect on people.

It is really difficult not to cheer up, even after a hard day’s work, when you are greeted with — often vocal — enthusiasm by a friendly dog

• Dogs boost your oxytocin levels when we interact with them. Since this is the hormone largely responsible for social bonding, this hormonal “love injection” boosts our psychological well-being.
• Studies analyzed reveals that dog owners have more positive social interactions and that the presence of canine friends makes people more trusting and also more deserving of trust.
• Dogs make people feel good, and their only job is to help people in stressful situations feel better
• One of the greatest gifts we receive from dogs is the tenderness they evoke in us. By their delight in being with us, the reliable sunniness of their disposition, the joy they bring to playtime, the curiosity with which they embrace each new experience, dogs can melt cynicism, and sweeten the bitter heart.

Here at DogData, We say own a dog today, and leave the rest to us! Do have a lovely week ahead!

Copyright © 2019–2020 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Medical Detection Dogs

Compared To humans who have around 5 million scent glands, dogs have 1,000 to 10,000 times more scent glands averaging it to about 140 million to 300 million scent glands.
It is a dog’s intricate sense of smell that has captured the interest of the medical world in using dogs to help detect human diseases and to help people who suffer from these diseases such as diabetes to live a more fulfilling life.
In the US, Dogs4Diabetics an organization founded in that 2004 that researches, trains, and places medical assistance diabetic alert dogs with insulin-dependent diabetics are of the opinion that all diseases have a scent associated with the diseases, due to the changes occurring within the body, with different organs expressing different chemical compounds. These scents are evident in breath and sweat.
Dogs have highly sensitive senses and can learn to recognize symptoms from many types of disorders. Dogs are not taught to react to symptoms, but to scent.
But of course, these dogs do not automatically adapt to the detection of these scents. A great deal of training goes into ensuring they acquire the correct smell to carry out their job.

Train to gain

Dogs Must be trained to meet set criteria in order to become medical detection dogs.

• The criterion ranges from their behavior characteristics
• Their relationships with humans (ability to bond and willingness to please)
• Their environment soundness
• To their work ethic
• Motivations
• Response to reward

Dogs are trained to identify the hypoglycemic scent and then are taught to discriminate the hypoglycemic scent from other attractive, but distracting, scents through a series of games and training exercises. The dogs receive positive rewards for identifying the correct scent and for their work.

From DogData with love!

Copyright © 2019–2020 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Why Mother dogs May Kill Their Puppies

It is a pet owner’s and a dog breeder’s worst nightmare when a mother dog kills her puppies. Whether the killing is purposeful or accidental, the sight of the dead puppy is enough to cause shock and disbelief. This behavior is, unfortunately, not uncommon in the canine world and it actually has a name: *’’infanticide”* But why would a mother dog kill her puppy? There are many reasons, however, some of them are due to the fault of the breeder. Here are the things to consider

Is She Actually Killing Them?

First of all, it is important to recognize that the mother dog may not necessarily be killing the puppies. Unless you actually see her killing them or acting in an abnormal way, it would be unjust to assume she is doing it. It doesn't necessarily mean that the mother dog killed the puppies if you find a puppy dead, many things could have gone wrong.

Normal Puppy and Mother Interaction

Puppies normally nurse and spend 90% of their time sleeping during their first week. During the first week, the mother should exhibit a lively interest in her puppies. She will stimulate them to eliminate by licking their bottoms and ingesting their waste and sometimes in a large liter doing this may prove to be too enormous for her.

One Way to Help

If the dog has a large litter, you can help by getting a cotton ball, wet it with warm water, and gently pass it on the pup’s bottom after they nurse. This is a way you can mimic the mother’s tongue and help the puppies excrete.

Do not use anything other than a cotton ball and be very gentle. Never rub.

Questions to Ask

Is the puppy’s room temperature ideal? It should be around 85 degrees for their first few days and never less than 70°F. This means you will have to use a heat lamp, and possibly, a heating pad. If you have questions about general puppy care and wellness of your puppy you can ask DogExpert on the Subreddit platform https://www.reddit.com/r/AskDogExpert/

Are the puppies actively nursing?
Are they sleeping close to each other?
Is there a puppy staying away from the others and crying more? all these are questions you need to find answers to because they could mean the puppies are not thriving

What Causes Death

There are many medical conditions that can cause puppies to die. Puppy fading syndrome can cause puppies to die from when they are born up until they are 9 weeks old. According to Hilltop Veterinary Hospital, the syndrome might be caused by:

Puppies being too hot or too cold
Mother’s neglect of the puppies by refusing to lie next to them and nurse them
Physical defects of the puppy
Infections
If you notice any abnormal situation please take your dog and litter to your veterinarian.

Preventing Death

Puppies are very vulnerable as newborns. To keep them safe and healthy, your best bet would be to watch the litter closely for the first few weeks and look for puppies nursing and acting normally. You should also, watch the mother’s interactions and take note if there are any abnormal behaviors. Sleep near the litter for the first few days. This way if you hear any muffled cries, you can go to the rescue.

In general, you should always take the mother, along with her puppies, to see a vet 24 hours after giving birth to ensure there are no retained placentas and that the puppies are in good health.

Why Would a mother dog kill her puppies?

When it comes to finding dead puppies, there are some signs of mother intervention that cannot be mistaken. Disappeared or dead puppies with bite marks, missing heads, and other significant injuries may be assumed that the mother killed the pup. 

Accidental Killing

Dogs may at times accidentally kill their puppies by crushing them or smothering them. Not all have the instinct to nose the puppies to the center of the whelping box for safety.

Smothering, crushing, and laying down on the puppies can be prevented by installing railings that help prevent the dogs from accidentally lying on a puppy that may have slipped behind her.

Killing Sick Puppies

Other times, when puppies act sickly or when they have something wrong (which we as owners may not be able to tell), mothers may purposely kill them so they can focus on the healthier ones.

It may start with the mother pushing the puppy away from her. At times, the mother may even eat the puppy. This is not cruelty. It is natural selection and part of the dog’s evolutionary process. If one puppy is sick, it may attract unwanted predators.

Inexperienced or Unstable Mothers

The mother dog may have been bred too young — dogs should never be bred on their first heat — or she may simply not be a stable mother.

In these cases, the mother should be spayed and never be allowed to breed again. As the puppies grow, the mother dog may growl and snap at the puppies that require discipline, but in the first week, puppies are defenseless creatures that depend totally on their mom.

Normally, the mother will bond strongly with them during this time thanks to the “bonding hormone,” oxytocin. When that doesn’t happen, trouble arises.

Stress

Some dogs may kill their puppies if they feel stressed by not having a quiet secluded place for the litter to live. There may be too many people coming to see the litter or the litter may be too big for the dog to handle.

The dam’s stress levels may cause her to do the unthinkable. According to Nicholas Dodman in an article for Petplace, a Rottweiler mother killed her pups after being returned to her from a tail docking. She may have assumed the puppies had been damaged or contaminated in some way, and therefore, their destruction was a way of putting them ‘’out of their misery.”

Lack of Recognition

Some dogs, especially new mothers, might not recognize their offspring as their own. This is especially true for dogs who had a cesarean section. New puppies sound like some prey animals (e.g. rodents.) Some dogs with a rodent-killing heritage might mistake them for prey and might be compelled to eat them.

Problems With Nursing

There is a condition that makes it very painful for a mother to nurse her young (mastitis) The pain might be enough to for her to reject the litter.

Make sure you do your research before breeding your dog, have the mother and litter seen by the vet in the first 24 hrs, and monitor both the mother and the litter carefully for the first few weeks. This should help prevent problems with infanticide.

 

DogData Solutions

PedigreeChian BlockChian Explorer - PedigreeChian BlockChain Explorer runs on the blockchain technology and you can use it to capture your dog's records without the need of a third party. Blockchain technology ensure that records are secured, encapsulated, immutable and accurate. You can use the solution at no cost from any location.

Smart Contract - The Smart contract also runs on the blockchain technology and you can use to go into an agreement and also to enforce the terms and conditions of the agreement.  Your transactions and agreements are stored in blocks and records can not be altered. Furthermore, with the smart contract, you do not need a third party of an escrow agent anymore.

Utility Token - DogData Etherbone utility token can as a discount voucher,  medium of exchange for pet products and services. It has a global use and it can also be traded against other digital currencies. 

 

 

 

Dog Training Tools

A Clicker is a tool used to mark or pinpoint the desired behavior with a clicking noise.

Dog training has its own language and its own set of tools. When your trainer suggests that you get your dog a mat or a crate, or that you work with him on a long line, what is he talking about?

With these handy devices, your dog will be well-mannered in no time.

B

Back clip harness: Harness on which the leash attachment is located over the dog’s back. This type of harness is typically comfortable and easy for a dog to adjust to, but it offers less control over the dog’s movements and can exacerbate pulling.

C

Cavity toys: See food puzzles.

Clicker: Tool used to mark or pinpoint the desired behavior with a clicking noise. There are a variety of clickers, from the standard box clicker, which makes a sudden, sharp noise, to more muted versions (like a ballpoint pen) for dogs that are more sensitive to sound.

Crate, kennel: Box-like shelter for a dog. Crates come in a variety of designs, including hard plastic, wire and soft-sided. Some crates are designed to fold up for easy storage.

D

Dog pen: Dog containment area created with fencings, such as exercise or X-pens or baby gates, in a play pen-like style. Dog pens can be used to prevent destructive behavior or to facilitate potty training. A dog run is an example of an outdoor dog pen.

F

Food puzzle: Toy designed to hold food or chews. The dog removes the food by using his teeth, tongue, paws, and mouth to manipulate the toy. Food puzzles require the dog to work for his food, which provides needed mental and physical stimulation.

Front clip harness: This type of harness has a leash attachment at the center of a dog’s chest. This allows the pet owner to gently control the dog’s movements and can help hinder pulling.

G

Gate: Portable gate or fence that can be used as a barrier to keep a dog confined to a specific area or away from an off-limits space. These may be marketed as baby gates or dog gates.

H

Harness: Alternative to a collar. Like a collar, a harness has a hook for the dog’s leash, as well as a place to put his ID tags. Many trainers believe that a harness is gentler than a collar, especially for small dogs or brachycephalic dogs, who can have their airways more easily damaged by a collar.

Head halter: A walking tool. The head halter consists of two parts: a section that fits around the dog’s neck like a collar and an attached piece that fits over the dog’s nose and wraps around his muzzle. The leash attaches under the dog’s chin area.

Leash

A leash is a fixed length of material with a clip at one end, which attaches to a collar or harness, and a handle at the other end for a person to hold. A fixed-length leash is one that does not expand or retract; commonly, a fixed-length leash is 4- to 6-feet long.

Lure: A stimulus that a dog will willingly follow. Treats are the most commonly used lure, but toys are another useful type of lure.

Long-lasting chews: These are chews that require extensive effort on the dog’s part to eat; they take a long time to consume. Dental chews, such as some of those with C.E.T. enzymes to help break down excess plaque, can fall into this category.

Longline: Leash available in a variety of lengths ranging from 8-feet long to upwards of 40-feet long. A longline allows the dog the freedom of being off-leash while preventing him from running away and can be used for training or play.

Mat: Similar in appearance to a cushion or blanket, a dog mat is a designated place to rest. Mat training teaches the dog to go to a place when he is asked, for example, the dog can be taught to go to his mat, rather than begging at the table during a meal. A mat is portable and can offer a dog a familiar place to rest in unfamiliar surroundings, such as the vet’s office or a friend’s home.

Retractable Leash: Leash with a handheld release that allows it to extend and retract with the movement of a dog. The leash can also be locked at the desired length. Though these are commonly used by pet owners, many pet professionals caution against their use, as they can be hazardous for both the pet owner and the dog.

Target stick: A long wand that can expand or retract as needed, with a ball on one end that the dog is trained to touch with a body part, commonly his mouth or nose. Some target sticks have a built-in clicker. A wooden spoon can be used in place of a target stick.

Tightening harness: Harness with a limited tightening feature, either on the back of the chest, where the leash clips on. The harness will tighten to a fixed degree if the dog pulls, and release when the leash is loose. This can offer the pet owner more control over pulling without causing a sharp pain to the dog, as choke or prong collars can do.

Training pouch, treat pouch: Pouch that holds treats and clips to a belt, pocket or waistband or has a fanny pack-style band that wraps around the waist. Larger training pouches can also hold other necessities, such as keys, a cellphone or waste bags.

Treat Stations: Areas around the home where treats are stored to make rewarding good behavior easier. Treat stations provide an alternative to carrying treats all the time. Concealing the treat containers keeps the dog on his best behavior, as he does not know when or where he might be rewarded.

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Home Made Feed preparation for Dogs

Dogs require good and balanced nutrition to thrive. Its helps them for good bone formation, brain development, skin, and fur, good immune, growth, etc The basic requirements are adequate water, fat, carbohydrates, proteins, mineral’s and vitamins, fats, etc. Feeding your dog an appropriate amount of a well-balanced diet is vital to its overall health and well-being. We have taken our time to make research on how to make a home meal diet that meets their nutritional requirements with expert advice from our nutritionist. Items. Millet, sorghum, rice, groundnut, soya beans, chicken flavor, honey, vegetables, oil ( olive oil, groundnut oil, palm oil), sugar, smoked fish. Optional items: Booster premix, sodium, phosphorus and iron (these 3 can be gotten from a feed mill) 1. Millet is high in fiber and protein and rich in B vitamins, (especially niacin, B6 and folic acid), phosphorus, manganese (a trace mineral that acts as an antioxidant), Millet also contains calcium, iron, and zinc. The protein content of millet varies from 5 to 20 percent, with an average of 10 to 12 percent. 2. Sorghum: it has high-complex carbohydrate, and also an excellent source of fiber (primarily insoluble fiber), vitamins B3, B1, and B2, iron, and potassium. 3. Groundnut: It is rich in antioxidants It is a high source of protein, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, zinc, calcium, sodium, etc. And other vitamins 4. Soya beans are an alternative cheap source of protein. Fish( could be crayfish, dried fish, etc) Fish Fish is filled with omega-3 fatty acids and vitamins such as D and B2 (riboflavin). Fish is rich in calcium and phosphorus and a great source of minerals, such as iron, zinc, iodine, magnesium, and potassium. 5. Maize contains Calories, Water, Protein, Carbs, Sugar, Fiber, Fat, Omega-3. 6 Rice contains Sodium, Potassium, Carbohydrate, Dietary fiber, Sugar, Protein, Vitamin C, Calcium, Vitamin D, Vitamin B-6 Magnesium. Preparation: Roast the soya beans and groundnuts to remove the shaft. Then grind together with the other items. Grind the corn and the soya beans first cos they are the hardest Put some cups of water on the fire, and pour some proportion of the items into it and start stirring like ur making pap. For puppies don't make it thick. Let it be watery. But for adolescent and adults, u can make it thick. Add some spoon of milk to it. Add a little palm oil, olive oil and maybe honey. Add a little salt and vegetable. U can get moringa to leave grind it and add. If you have a carrot or other forms of vegetables u can add to. With most dogs, u might introduce the food to them gradually just as you should do when introducing any other new meal. First, two days add 25% of new meal to old meal. Third and fourth day add 50% of new meal to 50% of old meal. 5th and 6th day add 75% of new meal to old meal and then after that you give 100% new meal. On a general note if your dog does not have the appetite to eat you might need to give them multivitamin appetizers to make them hungry. B complex for dogs works fine. Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Teaching your Dog to search or find it and Teaching your Dog to Hug

Training a dog requires time and patience but the benefits outweigh your effort. In the article, we shall be talking about the “Find it command” and the “Hug” command.

“Find it” it is a fun game and command to teach your dog that taps into his natural inclination to sniff.

Most dogs are naturally good at following their noses. They can often track everything from a dead mouse in the compound to a sandwich you left unattended to. This ability to nose out interesting smells can be channeled into a constructive skill with some simple training.

“Find it” can be helpful in a variety of situations. A quick game of “find it” can help nervous or timid canines to relax around new people or in unfamiliar situations, like at the vet’s office. “Find it” can be a way to help your dog channel excess energy or calm himself when greeting visitors. And “find it” can provide important mental stimulation by encouraging your dog to work for his meals and treats, which mimics the hunting his feral ancestors would have done.

“Find it” is a simple and fun game to teach your dog. Here’s how to get him sniffing.

Teach your dog to play “find it” by encouraging his natural talent for sniffing things out. A verbal or physical signal of the start of the game can help your dog know when it’s time to put his nose to the ground and go searching for something interesting.

To start, give the signal or cue “find it!” and immediately toss a desirable treat or favorite toy. Start easy, by tossing the treat or toy in a flat, open area. If your dog doesn’t understand what you’re asking, help him out by pointing at the item or walking toward it to draw his attention to it.

When your dog finds the item, reward him with praise and repeat the process. Give the “find it” cue and toss another treat or toy (or reuse the same toy if your dog returns it to you after he finds it).

Once your dog catches on and begins to associate the “find it” cue with retrieving the tossed item, start to increase the difficulty and make the task more challenging. Rather than one treat, toss several. Or rather than tossing a toy, ask your dog to stay while you hide the toy. You can also toss treats or a toy where your dog cannot see it, like behind a piece of furniture, and let him hunt for it.

“Find it” can be utilized to turn your dog’s mealtimes into a form of enrichment and mental stimulation. Scatter his kibble on the kitchen floor or across an outdoor patio or use a food puzzle to serve your dog’s meal. Both of these options require him to work for his food, which is good mental and physical exercise.

“Find it” can also turn playtime into hide-or-seek: Ask your dog to unearth his toy before engaging in a game of fetch or structured tug. “Find it” can also be a useful way to encourage structured greetings or calm interactions with people: Toss a toy and have your dog find it and bring it to your guests.

Teach your dog to hug

A hug can make you and your dog both feel happy and loved.

It can be hard to resist giving a dog yours or someone’s else a hug. If your dog enjoys being physically close to you, a hug can make you both feel happy and loved.

But not all dots loves to hug. For some dogs, a physical embrace may be perceived as an invasion of personal space or even a physical threat, especially when the hug is instigated by a person without the dog’s consent. This can result in a dog who is stressed or scared and can lead to a growl or even a bite.

Training your dog to hug on cue can give him a predictable way to interact with people, which can help him feel less anxious.

There are two types of hugs you can teach your dog to give. The first involves the dog standing up on his hind legs and resting his front paws on your shoulders, mimicking the chest-to-chest hug shared between two people. This option is good for quick greetings and works best with calm dogs who already know how to keep all four paws on the floor.

The second option involves teaching your dog to rest his head (and potentially his entire body) against you in a full doggy embrace. This is a nice option for dogs who like to be close to people and enjoy snuggling.

You can teach your dog whichever version is best for his and your hugging personality. Some dogs will prefer one type of hug over another, while others will enjoy both options.

The standing hug

If your dog is already the type who greets you by placing his paws on you, training a standing hug is as simple as teaching him to associate this natural behavior with a cue. Big dogs can be taught to place their paws on your shoulders while you stand up, but with smaller dogs, you will need to kneel or sit to enable them to reach up and hug you.

One caution, though: If your dog tends to greet people by jumping on them, you will need to deal with that behavior before you teach your dog to hug on command and you may want to skip the hugging altogether.

For spontaneous canine huggers, simply add a verbal cue, like “hug,” to a naturally occurring hug (for example, when you walk in the door at the end of the day). Say the cue as he begins to reach up to hug you, and then reward him with a treat or praise. Alternatively, pat your legs or shoulders to invite your dog to place his paws up; as he does so, say the cue “hug.” Pair the cue with a reward of praise or a treat to help him associate the word with the reward.

With enough repetitions, your dog will begin to associate the cue (“hug”) with the action of hugging you. The next step is to eliminate spontaneous hugs. Once he’s familiar with the “hug” cue, limit rewards strictly to times when your dog hugs in response to the command. If he gives you an unsolicited embrace, stand still or turn away and ignore him. Eventually, he will learn that he is only rewarded with praise or a treat or a return hug when you give the cue first.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

How To Know When Your Dog is in Pain.

Sometimes our dogs can be in pain but they cant express it to us and am sure none of us can stand to see our beloved pets in pains. Even when our dogs aren’t eaten it affects us emotionally.

Sometimes it can be very difficult to know whether or not ur dog is in pain. But other times its obvious.

There are signs u can look for that might indicate your dog is experiencing pain.

Dogs in pain are more likely to bite so be careful. They could loss appetite as well. Breathing heavy, heart rate, and even appearance can all change when ur dog is experiencing pain.

If you have a good idea of your dog’s “normal” which includes his normal attitude, energy level, gait, appetite, thirst, sleep patterns, and other physical and behavioral patterns then it would help you know when his probably in pains or sick.

When evaluating your dog for potential pain, please take great care to not get yourself (or anyone helping u) bitten. Don’t allow family members and friends go close to him during such times. Even if ur dog would never normally bite anyone, the mere fact that ur evaluating your dog for pain indicates that this may not be a normal time.

Dogs in pain are more likely to bite. This is true even with their owners and other people they know. And it happens more when a person touches or moves the painful area. So once u observe the area of pains avoid touching such spots.

Breathing Changes:
Dogs experiencing pain may have a faster and more shallow breathing pattern than normal. They may also pant.

Heart and Pulse Changes:
Dogs in pain will often have an increased heart/pulse rate. The rate often noticeably speeds up when the painful area is touched or moved.
U can learn how to measure your dogs heart rate at home. Contact a technician to teach u.

Posture Changes:
Dogs who are in pain may assume a very rigid stance, while others may assume the “prayer position” with their front legs on the ground, their butt up in the air, and a stretch throughout their abdomen. Some dogs in pain will lie around more, while others may experience difficulty laying down.

It all depends on the type, location, and severity of the pain.

Eye Changes:
The eyes can be great indicators of pain in dogs. They change both for eye pain itself and for pain elsewhere in the body. Often pain elsewhere in the body will result in larger (dilated) pupils, while pain in the eye(s) can result in either larger or smaller (constricted) pupils.

If their eyes are in pain, the affected eye(s) may also appear bloodshot.

Food and Water Changes:
Dogs in pain often eat and drink less than normal. When they do eat and drink, if the cause of their pain is their teeth or some other part of the mouth, they may drop food and/or water from their mouth.

Energy Level Changes:
Most dogs in pain will have a general decrease in their activity level. This often shows as a dog who sleeps more. It may also manifest as a dog who simply runs and/or jumps less than normal.

Mobility Changes:
Dogs in pain often move around less. However, depending on what hurts, they may still move around the same amount, but do so differently (i.e. with a limp, or more slowly when going up or down the stairs, etc.)

Pooing Changes:
Dogs who have back pain, for any reason, may have difficulty with the posture needed to defecate. So they may struggle to do that.

Body Contour Changes:
If u observe swellings, be they on your dog’s legs, body, or face, could be an indication of a painful condition, such as infection, inflammation or others.

It’s important to speak with or see your vet any time ur dog is in pain, or if u think they may be.

For dogs suffering from arthritis fish oil which has anti inflammatory properties can help.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Why Dogs chew themselves

Its okey for dogs to occasionally chew on their body such as feet, ears, rails and the rest. They do that to groom themselves and also to alleviate irritating areas of their body. This behavior is typical when humans scratch their bodies.
However if you notice that that your dog constantly chew on his body then it could be a sign of problem. Watch closely to observe if the chewed area becomes inflamed, red, furless or even injured. There are lots of factors that may cause your dog to chew on themselves constantly and if you don’t tackle the issue it would definitely result in other complication. The factors are reasons why your dog may excessively chew on themselves.
Dry Skin – Dry skin can be caused as a result of too frequent bathing. When you bath dogs too frequently it can cause the natural oils on their skin to dry off. So avoid bathing your dogs too frequently. Once in 2 weeks is fine or when they become smelly or dirty. Dry skin can also be caused as a result of dehydration, malnutrition (Lack of fatty acids), Cold weather, or hot and dry weather. When your dog’s skin becomes dry they would start it would start irritating them. Your dog may begin to chew on himself as a way to relieve itching dry skin.
Ticks, fleas and other parasites – parasitic infestation has the potential to cause your dog dry skin. You should do all you can to keep your pets free of ticks, fleas, worms and other dangerous parasite. Use tick and flea products on them, keep their environments neat and deworm them regularly.
Allergies – There are lots of factors that can cause allergies in dog. Dogs can be allergic to food, dust, smoke and lots more. Allergies can make your dogs skin to be greasy. Pesticides and insecticides also has the potential to cause allergy in dog and in fact such items are poisonous to dogs. Therefore you should ensure your dogs do not come close to such items. Certain type of human product such as soap also has the potential to cause allergies in dogs. You should consider changes to the environment or diet if you experience allergic reaction in your dogs.
Skin infections – Just the way skin infection affect humans that how it also affects dogs. Your dog’s skin can become dry if infected with a skin disease. Nutritional imbalances, thyroid hormones and dirt’s can make your dogs have skin infection. For bacterial infection you can observe it by looking at your dog’s body carefully. If you discover tiny red bums on the skin of your dog then you should know it is a bacterial infection. Your dogs can also suffer from fungal infections, and in this case their skin can become oily and greasy.

Pain, Aches and Soreness
If your dog steps on a sharp object, of hit his body hard against some walls then they can feel pain which in return can cause them to chew on that area. Thorns, sharp pieces of glass and other objects that are stuck in their body can also cause irritation and make them chew on themselves. Another source of pains in dogs Is arthritis and dogs react to it. Some may start chewing on the affected part excessively.
Psychological reasons – Just like humans dogs develop Psychological problems. Dogs require constant companionship, stimulation and attention in other to be mentally balanced. When they becomes lonely and bored the can develop unwanted behaviors such as constant chewing of themselves. You must find ways to keep your dog’s mentally stable always. Give them attention, socialize them and give them toys to play with in order to overcome Psychological issues

Final notes.
To identify the reasons for constant chewing is pretty easy to identify in dogs. Endeavour to always keep a close eye on them and try to resolve chewing issues before it escalates. If you can’t determine the cause of chewing then have a Vet examine your dog and give them medication or care to resolve it. A stitch in time saves 9 so always play the active role of a responsible dog owner and keep your dogs in the best possible physical and mental conditions

Blockchain in Dog Data

This is a brief demonstration on how Blockchain Technology will be implemented in DogData
platform and all records created in Blockchain with unique Hash key generation for each
record so that the records cannot be tampered. Also the records will be displayed with
Graphical User Interface (GUI) in both website and Mobile App. The Blocks will be generated
once the record is created either through website or through mobile app. For getting the
information to store in the Blockchain, we will be using REST API. Rest API is a front end
technology that is implemented to display the records in the mobile app (Dog Registration,
Vaccination Record...etc that is created in the backend). It will just display the skeleton of the
records, so we will be working on the UI part to make it user friendly.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Breed Standards Lhasa Apso vs 2019 

The lhasa apso dogs were local to Tibet in China with very long cold seasons and very short hot season. They were found inside monasteries with Lamas serving as a burglary alarm for any intruder that escaped the watch of the external guide dogs the Tibetan mastiff.  The monasteries were usually placed on sloppy hills very high above sea level, with low oxygen concentration and extreme cold.

If the lhasa apso needed to survive carrying out their duties as burglary alarm, they needed to evolve the long coat to stay warm during the cold times in Tibet, but shed during the short warm times. They also needed to evolve a deep and lengthy chest with extra pair of ribs to accommodate greater volume of lung tissues to be able to breath in more air. They also needed to be lengthy in stature and closer to the ground, this would ensure their center of gravity was stable on a steep slope. Although the lhasa apso are known to shed slowly and continuously like humans; having extreme weather in Tibet where they originate from, they had to evolve a lengthy hair. Same with all the animals found in Tibet China, they usually come with long coats, and the humans there usually wear very hairy coat to keep themselves warm.

In 1933, the very first lhasa apso arrived in the USA gifted to C Suydam Cutting and it was added as a breed in 1935 into the AKC. Since then, the typical appearance of the lhasa apso brought into the USA has been established as its standard conformation.

Nowadays lhasas apso are found in different areas of the world having different climates, different cultures, different altitudes and different terrain. It has become no longer necessary for them to have very lengthy double coated hair to protect against extreme cold. Places close to the equator such as the tropics have higher temperature which would not be suited for a full length double coated dog like the lhasa apso. It is apparent that this particular conformation that is one of the standards is definitely not ideal for a lhasa apso, as it can cause overheating in such a dog.

Nowadays people who keep lhasa apso do not keep them to be watch dogs so it should no longer be a requirement for lhasa apso to be sturdy. A lot of people who acquire the lhasa apso do not live in high altitude with low oxygen concentration in the atmosphere, therefore a deep chest with greater lung tissue volume isn't required anymore as the oxygen concentration at sea level is sufficient enough for a normal chest. The implication of having a deeper and lengthy chest is the risk of hyperventilation which can cause respiratory alkalosis. Respiratory alkalosis occurs when CO2 is breathe out too fast, causing an imbalance in the acid base homeostasis of the body. It's noteworthy that not everyone live in a sloppy terrain, therefore a lower point of gravity isn't required for a dog living in an area with lower slopes.

Most people who get a lhasa apso do so for companionship now. They need a dog they can place on their laps and relax with. They are hardly ever looking for a burglary alarm to notify them of any intruder. This points clearly shows that sturdiness isn't necessarily needed in a lhasa apso, as our modern society tends to be in the laid back spectrum of physical activity.

Having enlisted the above points, I hope I have been able to convince you of how the current standard conformation of lhasa apso is not necessarily ideal for the modern society.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

House Training your Dogs and Submissive Urination

The most important house training rule is to avoid accidents!

To house train a dog we are relying on the fact that dogs are fairly particular about where they "go" and build strong habits. It is very important to prevent accidents, because every time he relieves himself in the house, he is building a preference for this area.

Every time your dog potties inside, blame YOURSELF (but please be forgiving)! Until your dog has learned where to go potty, he should be under constant surveillance (with his leash tied to your belt if possible or on your lap), in his crate, or tethered on a comfy mat (tether should be used only under supervision).

The crate should be just big enough for him to stand up, turn around and lay down in. If your dog is having accidents in the crate, make sure it isn't too big and remove absorbent bedding.

When you are inside and he is out of her crate, keep him tethered to your waist and watch him constantly for sniffing or circling. Take him out immediately when you see this behavior.

Set a timer to go off every hour (this time can be increased as you progress) so that you don't forget to take him out before nature calls. If he doesn't relieve himself when you take him out and it's been a few hours, take him back in for 15 minutes (under your closest supervision or crated) and then try bringing him back out again. If he does "go", wait until he is completely finished before praising, feeding a treat and having a little play time together.

Stick to a strict schedule:

You should take your dog or puppy out many times during the day, especially after eating, playing or sleeping. Feed 2-3 times per day and leave the food down for about 15 minutes per feeding. Your dog can generally "hold it" for its age in months + 1 hr, but no longer than about 8 hours as an adult. The more often you bring your dog outside in the beginning the better because you will minimize the chances for mistakes and give your dog more opportunities for you to reward him for doing what you want. Water can remain down until about 8:00 at night.

Be consistent and keep it simple:

Until he is reliably house trained, bring him to the same spot each time, and leave a bit of his waste there. Use this spot only as a potty area, and not for play. Bring him there on leash and say something like "hurry up" when you see him getting ready. As he goes, say nothing so as not to distract him, but when he finishes praise or click, give him a tasty treat and spend 5 minutes playing outside away from the potty area. If he doesn't go, return to the house, put him in his crate and wait 15 minutes before trying again.

"But, what if he goes in the house?

Hit yourself on the head with a rolled up newspaper! If you see your dog relieving itself in the wrong spot, bring him quickly outside and praise him for finishing there. If you find a mess, clean it very well (without him watching you) using an appropriate cleaner. Another helpful tool once your dog is 90% trained is a dog diaper or male dog wrap. I know this sounds a bit odd, but it can be a really helpful way to prevent messy accidents especially when out visiting with your dog. The dog diaper or male wrap will prevent your dog from soiling the area (and making it more attractive to future accidents) and also is somewhat unpleasant for the dog so it can help to disco.urage accidents. Of course, this is not in itself a solution, but it can be a help.

Training a dog to overcome submissive Urination

The common advice regarding submissive wetting is to ignore your dog by looking away or not approaching him and to hope that he or she grows out of it. There are some other tips which mostly involve managing the problem such as making sure they have pottied recently and to make a point to say hello to your dog on an easy to clean surface. Male wrap (for male dogs) or dog diapers can help to contain the urine and can be especially useful if you are having many guests over.

The traditional advice or ignore, manage and hope usually does work fine. It's true that most dogs do grow out of submissive urination by about one year of age, but, some would not. So, for those adult dogs and if you prefer not to have to wait months and months for your puppy to get over the submissive peeing, read on!

Keep some treats by the door and when you come home feed your dog treats for sitting politely. Once he is able to do that fairly calmly and without peeing, before feeding a treat, you should lean over him just a tiny bit before feeding the treat. The next step after he is able to accomplish that without an accident is to lean and bend towards him before feeding the treat. Continue to progress like that in small steps and over several days until you can bend and pet your dog and even talk in an excited voice while he sits calmly and happily waits for a treat.

If your dog does start to urinate because you have pushed on a little faster than your dog can manage, simply turn away from him. Do not scold as it will only make the problem worse as he tries harder to submit to you in future greetings. Just chalk it up to experience and resolve to go slower next time. If your dog begins to urinate even as you approach, you can start by tossing treats to him from a distance or try standing sideways.

I bet you'll find that this solution is surprisingly easy and effective.

To perfect your dog's dry greetings, you will need to practice feeding him treats for sitting calmly in some different situations such as for greeting different people and in other locations.

This technique works because it gets the dog's mind off of "greeting" and onto something else like sitting for a treat.

Happy training to you and your dog!

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Feeding Your Dog During Pregnancy

It very important to make sure your pregnant bitch is getting everything she needs. Eaten right would make sure both babies and mum remain healthy. It would also help her recover after whelping.

Pregnant mothers needs extra boost especially if she's carrying large litter. That is one of the reason why you need to take her for a scan during pregnancy so you can have an estimate of the number of expected litter. In other to meet up her protein and energy demands its best if you feed her Puppy feed.

Feeding her high quality puppy feed would help her during and after pregnancy greatly. Good milk formation, healthy puppies.

Puppy food is richer in key nutrients and provides more energy than adult-formula food. It’s easily digestible also and easier to chew giving her less stress. These are all important things to think about when feeding pregnant bitches.

If you can't afford feeding puppy formulas from start of pregnancy then start around week 6. It will help her to stay strong, and also passes nutrients to her puppies through her milk.

Your dog should be introduced to her new food in stages any way. 

Giving her time to adjust would allow her tummy time to adjust. Start to introduce the puppy food into her usual formula, a little bit at a time, over the course of about a week, until the formulas have been completely swapped over. A simple thing to do is to add 25% new meal to 75 old meal for two days, then 50% new meal to 50% old meal another two days. 75% new meal to 25% old meal for another two days and then 100% new meal. This would help her to adjust smoothly and also help her against upset stomach.

Make sure she has easy access to plenty of fresh, clean drinking water so she can stay hydrated, especially if she’s on a dry-food formula during pregnancy.

It’s best to feed your pregnant bitch little and often, especially in the later stages of pregnancy, as a tummy full of puppies will mean she won’t have much room for food.

When feeding pregnant dogs, give them their usual portion sizes for the first few weeks of pregnancy. During these early stages, your bitch may go off her food or experience a little nausea and vomiting, similar to our humans having morning sickness

Start to increase her food intake, bit by bit, from around week five of her pregnancy. Gradually increase the portion size a little more each week, so that by week nine her meal size is about a third more than normal. By this time, mum’s weight should have increased by about 25%, or more if she is expecting a large litter.

Use controlled, measured portions to stop her overeating and becoming obese, as this can cause problems during pregnancy and labour.

Overweight in dogs can cause difficulties during labour such as stress which might in turn make her abandon her puppies after whelping.

It is important not to supplement her feed with calcium and bones during pregnancy. If you must supplement with any other vitamins it has to be prescribed by your vet.

Managing nutrition and the bitch’s bodyweight before, during and after pregnancy is critical to the health of her and her puppies. Malnutrition due to inadequate nutrient intake can lead to abortions or stillbirths. Excessive feeding can lead to obesity increasing the risk of dystocia and prolonged labour as i said earlier.

Importance of feeding during lactation:

Successful lactation requires good nutrition before breeding and throughout pregnancy. During lactation, energy requirements increase and are directly proportional to milk production, which in turn is directly related to the number of feeding puppies.

The food fed to the bitch during lactation should be nutrient dense and highly digestible. After whelping, the bitch’s energy requirements steadily increase and peaks between three to five weeks. This peak is two to four times higher than the bitch’s normal energy requirements. The energy requirements return to maintenance levels at about eight weeks after whelping, corresponding with the timing of weaning.

The requirement for protein increases more than the requirement for energy in the lactating bitch. Therefore the food selected needs to be high in digestible protein.

During pregnancy do not give calcium supplement like i said earlier but during lactation you should. Calcium requirements increase to two to five times normal during peak lactation.

In summary.

Feed your pregnant and nursing bitch a food that is highly digestible and is high in nutrients e.g Puppy feed.

Do not increase her food No food until 42 days of pregnancy.

After week six of gestation food increase by approximately 10% a week is necessary.

During the late stage of pregnancy you should geed her 25% -50% more food

Avoid overfeeding gestating bitches. Excessive weight gain can be detrimental to the bitch and/or the puppies.

Provide several small meals per day during the latter stage of pregnancy, and during lactation. This is particularly important for bitches with large litters.

Always ensure clean, fresh water is available.

Lactating bitches have significantly increased energy and nutrient requirem

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Grooming The Eye Region of A Dog 

The goal is to keep your pup's facial hair trimmed back out of his eyes and to be able to do so without either of you becoming stressed out. It is an important task that can protect the health of his eyes.

As you know, the eye region of a dog or human is very delicate. There are many dog breeds with hair that seems to be constantly growing into their eyes. There are several very good reasons you shouldn’t let this facial hair become too long. This hair grows from above and below, which can hinder their eyesight, and rub their eyes and cause irritation and damage.

Depending on your dog, this may also cause excessive tearing and staining to occur. Thankfully, we DogData have developed this article that can enable you practice and with a little patience, you can learn to keep your dogs facial hair trimmed back out of his eyes.

Chances are good that your pup is not going to be delighted to have a pair of scissors and your hands right up in his eyes.

Most dogs don't like having anything close to their eyes. Just like humans, we flinch too when someone sticks something close to our eyes. The best way to get him used to this is to start very slowly, introducing him to the scissors before you try to groom around his eyes with them.

Method one is The Brush and Trim Method

Start by gently brushing the hair around your pup's eyes upwards and outwards. This will make a big difference when it comes to trimming his facial hair in a straight line. It will also help to remove any dirt or tangles that might be in his hair. Take your time and be gentle, as anything else will only make him face shy and make it harder for you to trim this hair back.

After that you introduce scissors. Show your pup the scissors and give him a moment to get used them being around his face. Try gently laying them on his snout just below his eyes and letting them rest there for a few seconds with your hand on top of his head near his eyes. Giving him time to relax and get used to their presence will make it much easier when the time comes to trimming this hair.

Trim a neat straight line starting on one side of his face going over the top of his nose and ending in at the other side. Take a break and give your pup a treat. Grooming him in stages like this at the start will help your pup get used to being groomed and allow him to be calmer.

When he relaxes after his treat, he will let you know he is ready for you to trim the bottom hair out of the way. If at any time you are not happy with the line you cut, give your pup a moment and trim it up.

Be sure to give him lots of praise and treats the whole time and in time he will let you groom around his eyes without fussing.

The Walk First Method

In this method you go for a walk first

Start by taking your dog for a walk. Not only does this give him time to take care of business, it will tire him out a bit and help to calm him down. At the same time, this will make it less likely for him to wiggle around when you are trying to groom around his eyes. In fact, try and make it a very long walk or a rigorous excerise, the more tired your pup is, the more relaxed he is likely to be.

When you return from the walk, With one hand, cover your pup's eyes from below the fringe you need to cut. Not only will this help to keep him calmed down (what he can't see won't hurt him), it will also give you a nice straight line to trim along. Be sure you are using safety scissors (the ones with no points on the end) to cut the hair or you risk injuring your pup or maybe even stabbing yourself.

Using your fingers as a guide, fluff the hair up. This will help lift the hair to where it easier for you to safely cut. It also helps to give you a much straighter line when you make the cut. Be careful, take your time. As long as your pup's eyes are covered he should remain calm. If he starts to struggle, stop and take a break. Give him a treat, praise him and give him a few minutes to calm back down before continuing.

Cleaning up the eyebrows

Now it's time to clean up his eyebrows, as they can get in his eyes at the same time. Using a forefinger, hold the eye you are working on closed. Use the palm of the same hand to hold the other eye closed while you work. Carefully trim his eyebrows, by pulling them out gently. Do a little bit at a time and use your finger as a guideline.

Cruising along the bottom

If your pup has hair growing up from the bottom of the eyes, use one hand to cover his eyes while you trim this hair as well. This part shouldn’t take too long but, by now your pup is probably getting fidgety. So, finish up and give him treats and praise for a job well done. After the two of you have done this together a few times, he should be very comfortable when you groom around his eyes.

Caution & Considerations

Anytime you are using a pair of scissors around your dog's eyes, there is a high risk of injury if your pup decides to jerk his head.

If he won't hold still, you may have to use a slightly firmer grip. However, this might just be an indication you need to take more time getting him used to having scissors around his eyes.

Be sure that you use safety scissors for this job, never use scissors with pointed ends as they can seriously injure your pup.

Do have plenty of treats on hand, and a comb or brush to help brush out the hair around his face.

Take your time. Not only will this help to keep him calm, but it will also help make the finished job look much better.

If your dog tends to be wound up and easily excited, talk to your vet. He may recommend using a mild sedative to help calm him down. These medications will not harm your pup, but they will make it much easier for you to groom around his eyes.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Anxiety in Dogs

Dogs suffer from anxiety which leafs to several behavioral issues. Your dog can suddenly become aggressive, destructive. There are steps you can take to help your dog live without been anxious.

What Causes Dog Anxiety?

Fear,
Separation,
Aging, etc

Fear  anxiety can be caused by loud noises, strange people or animals, new or strange environments, specific situations like the vet’s office becouse the dog knows he would be injected. Car rides can also cause anxiety in dogs.

Dogs with separation anxiety are unable to find comfort when they are left alone or separated from their family members. This anxiety often manifests itself in undesirable behaviors, such as urinating and defecating in the house, destroying furniture and furnishings, and barking. When you lock or chain up a dog it can also cause anxiety.

Age-related anxiety affects older dogs and can be associated with cognitive dysfunction syndrome (CDS). In dogs with CDS, memory, learning, perception, and awareness start to decline, similar to the early stages of Alzheimer's disease in humans. This understandably leads to anxiety in senior dogs.

Symptoms of Anxiety

So how can you tell if your dog has anxiety? Look out for sudden
Aggression,
Urinating or defecating in the house,
Drooling,
Panting,
Destructive behavior,
Depression,
Excessive barking,
Pacing,
Restlessness,
Repetitive or compulsive behaviors

By far the most dangerous symptom of dog anxiety is aggression. This aggression can be targeted directly or indirectly, depending on the situation. Direct aggression occurs when a dog acts aggressively toward people or other animals.

Indirect aggression can be equally dangerous, and often happens when a person comes between the dog and the source of the dog’s aggression, such as another dog. Even if a dog is prevented from harming others, aggressive behaviors such as growling or barking can lead to dangerous situations for humans and dogs.

Urinating and defecating in the house is a common symptom of separation anxiety. Anxious dogs often work themselves up to the point that they pee or poop in the house, even if they are housebroken. This is frustrating for owners and can cause damage to property, not to mention the unpleasantness of the cleanup.

Destructive behavior is also common with separation anxiety. The damage is usually located around entry and exit points, like doorways and windows, but dogs in a state of heightened anxiety are also at risk of harming themselves.

Attempts to break out of dog crates or cage, windows, and even doors can result in painful injuries and expensive vet treatments.

Treating Dog Anxiety

The best way to treat anxiety is to know the cause and  talk with a vet. They can help you identify the type of anxiety your dog suffers from and the possible causes and triggers hats if you cant tell.

Vets can also rule out any other medical conditions that could be causing ur dog’s symptoms of anxiety.

Since anxiety is often caused by a variety of factors, the best way to treat it is usually through a combination of training, preventative strategies, and in some cases, medications.

You can train your dog to get used to the things that makes him anxious and also desensitize him. You should slowly introduce the dog to the source of anxiety, preferably in small doses and at a decreased intensity. Repeated exposure and rewarding positive behavior can go a long way toward managing anxiety.

Anxiety Medications for Dogs:

Some cases of anxiety are so severe that ur vet may recommend medications or natural therapies. antidepressants are occasionally prescribed for dogs with anxiety. anxiety-producing events like thunderstorms, fireworks, or car rides, your vet might can also provide some medication like an antidepressant to help your dog cope with the stress.

Preventing Dog Anxiety

It is hard to predict if a dog will develop anxiety, but there are ways to help a new dog or puppy avoid anxiety-related problems.

One of the best things you can do is learn to read dog body language. Knowing when your dog is uncomfortable or scared can help you avoid negative experiences or use them as a positive training moment.

Body language can also tell you when a dog is getting anxious, which is useful if your dog has a history of aggression-related anxiety.

Proper socialization can prevent the development of anxiety. Introducing your dog to new people, dogs, animals, places, sounds and experiences can help them avoid an exaggerated response down the road.

Obedience training is an essential tool for preventing and managing anxiety. It lays the foundation of a healthy relationship and establishes trust. A well-trained dog is easier to socialize than a dog without training.

Exercise and Nutrition

Regular exercise and stimulation are crucial for a dog’s development, physical, and mental well-being. A stimulated dog is less likely to pick up destructive behaviors, and good nutrition is equally important for your dog's health. Make sure u allow your dog play everyday.

If your dog has been diagnosed with anxiety, you can also try to avoid or prevent situations that trigger your dog’s anxiety. 

If the source of the anxiety cannot be avoided, preventative measures like leashes, body harnesses, and, in some cases, basket muzzles can prevent dangerous situations. Once you know your dog's triggers, you can prepare for these situations ahead of time.

Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Dog Atopic Dermatitis

Atopic dermatitis is known as environmental allergies in dogs and is a major cause of chronic itching.

It is caused by an allergic reaction or hypersensitivity to some substances in the environment.

Just the way some humans can be allergic to smoke and dust and suffer from asthma dogs as well can be allergic to substances including foods.

Dogs with atopic dermatitis are usually itchy, with their face or their feet is always irritated

Sometimes even their skin can be reddened. Sometimes some part of their skin can be moist, or damaged due to excessive scratching or biting.

The ears may also be inflamed, and recurrent ear infections and wounds are quite common in dogs with dermatitis.

Other signs may include runny eyes or nose. It is important to seek vet care when u observe this with your dogs

Why does dermatitis develop?

Its caused by a combination of factors. Both genetics and environmental contributes

The condition is caused by an inappropriate immune reaction to the allergens, rather than by the allergens themselves just like in humans. Some persons can be exposed to smoke and dust but for others it might trigger asthma attack.

Many allergens are airborne and found nearly everywhere. Some are present year-round (such as housedust, dust mites, and some molds) while others are found at high levels only at some times during the year

Dermatitis in dogs is caused primarily by exposure to these allergens through the skin, but breathing them in can also result in signs.

The diagnosis is based on your observations of your dog and on your vets physical examination.  parasites and food can also cause this.

Blood allergy testing and other form of test is used to determine the substances your dogs could be allergic to. Blood testing attempts to measure antibody levels that your dog has formed against particular allergens.

How is atopic dermatitis treated?

Atopic dermatitis can be treated in many different ways. Limiting your dogs exposure to his allergens is ideal, but not usually practical as it may mean relocating to a different climate.  Other treatments are usually necessary. These include:

Immunotherapy:
A series of injections made from allergens that your dog is sensitive to can be given to induce “tolerance” to these substances. When these substances are then encountered in the environment, your dog should be much less sensitive to them.

Anti-inflammatory medications are usually helpful to reduce itching in your dog. Since each dog is very much an individual, some dogs need a trial with different drugs to find one that works best. Fatty acid supplements may also be helpful for mildly affected dogs or in conjunction with other treatments.

Topical therapy:
Medicated shampoos and conditioners can bring relief to many dogs. Bathing removes the allergens that are adhering to the surface of the skin, and the medicated ingredients also help to reduce itching and control secondary infections. Using lukewarm water for these medicated baths also helps cool the skin to further reduce itching. And also destroys ticks and fleas that maybe causing these allergies on your dog.

Antibacterial and antifungal medications:
Because dogs with atopic dermatitis are prone to recurrent bacterial and yeast infections of the skin and ears, your vet may need to address these infections in addition to treating the atopic dermatitis.

Medications used in such treatments might include antibiotics and or antifungals drugs. Your may also use topical therapy with antibacterial and antifungal shampoos, which can also help resolve and prevent these bacterial and yeast infections.

It is also very important for any dog with atopic dermatitis to be on a year-round, comprehensive flea control program.

Atopic dogs tend to be more sensitive to the bites of fleas, so even occasional flea bites should be prevented. Keep your environment and your dogs always major.

 

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Brucellosis In Dogs

There are many risk associated with mating of dogs and as a responsible breeder you shoulder not skip testing.

Let me talk about one of the risk  Brucellosis.

This is a dangerous Disease

Brucellosis is a contagious disease caused by the bacterium Brucella canis. It is a major cause of infertility in dogs. It can also be transmitted from dogs to humans.

In dogs, one of the sign of brucellosis is abortion during pregnancy. Other signs include stillbirths, inability to conceive. Sometimes infected dogs may not show any symptoms.

symptoms in humans vary. They range from infertility or serious cardiac or neurological problems. Etc

In dogs, the bacteria tend to attack the reproductive organs but can also migrate to the eyes, spinal column, liver, spleen, and lymph nodes.

The main mode of transmission of brucellosis is by direct contact with infected body fluids, such as semen, vaginal secretions, and urine.

Brucellosis affects female and male dogs in specific ways:

Females: Symptom in the female dog is infertility, with 75 percent of cases resulting in late-term abortion (45–55 days of gestation). And then inability to conceive.

Males: In the early phase of infection, the testes will be enlarged and painful. As the infection progresses, the testes become firm and shrunken. Infected males will become sterile due to testicular damage causing anti-sperm antibody formation.
Infected males may also develop prostatitis (inflammation of the prostate gland), with symptoms of difficulty urinating and defecating.

Non-reproductive symptoms in both sexes can include lethargy, weight loss, and exercise intolerance.

This is a disease is zoonotic disease.(its a dieses capable of spreading from animals to humans)

Before you pay for stud service make sure his tested at least annually, and bitches must be tested prior to each breeding.

Most human cases of brucellosis are caused by consuming unpasteurized dairy products or undercooked meat, it is possible for humans to get this disease from dogs also. People who have had direct contact with an aborted litter can be infected.

If you love your dogs and do not want your efforts to be wasted please act responsibly.

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Overweight and Obesity in dogs

As a responsible dog owner you should get a weighing scale at home and make sure to check the weight of ur dog regularly. You should endeavour to know the standard weight of the breed you have so u can tell when it’s overweight and obese

Owners often incorrectly believe their overweight dogs are at a healthy weight.

The formula for reducing weight in dogs is is to  decrease in the calories consumed and an increase in activity.

Obesity is wen dogs who are at least 30% heavier than what their normal weight should be.
Excess weight on dogs worsen their arthritis and slow them down. Have you seen a baby outrun a full grown dog? 😁. It an have  significant financial and medical implications in the event of an emergency or illness as well.

These are some of the health issues that overweight could cause in dogs.

Pancreatitis: Meaning inflammation of the pancreas. this disease often results in decreased energy and appetite, with concurrent vomiting and diarrhea. While pancreatitis can be fairly mild, it can also be much more severe and can be fatal (due to the triggering of a body-wide inflammatory cascade set off by the pancreatic inflammation). We have talked about this in previous articles. Giving your dogs too much fat can also cause pancreatitis.

Heat Stroke: Bcos of both the insulating properties of their excess fat and the additional strain such excess weight puts on their joints, overweight and obese dogs are at increased risk of developing this debilitating, expensive, and (often) fatal emergency condition.

Diabetes:  This condition typically require life-long management and frequent monitoring at your vet, but it also carries with it the additional risks of a severe metabolic emergency condition called diabetic ketoacidosis, recurrent urinary tract infections etc.

Others: Excessive weight and obesity also predisposes a dog to recurrent skin and urinary tract infections, worsens the pain associated with arthritis and other orthopedic conditions, and increases the likelihood that a dog with a pre-existing respiratory or heart condition will suffer an emergency related to their condition.

How can you tell if your dog is at his ideal body weight?

You can use a combination of your dogs weight and individual body condition score (BCS) to determine if your dog is overweight, underweight, or  right.You should look primarily at the waist, ribs, and any fat deposits on the back or near the base of the tail.

When you view your dogs waist from the back his abdomen should tuck up as it approaches the back legs. When viewed from above, there should be a clear delineation between the back half and the front.  The waist and the abdomen should not be on same level.

You should be able to feel the ribs easily, without having to press through too thick a layer of fat. If there is excessive fat cover over the ribs, your dog is overweight.

Your dogs back should not be perfectly flat, and there shouldn't be a large fat pad along their sides or near the base of their tail. 

Weight loss in dogs is typically far easier than losing weight ourselves.  This is bcos we control what they eat. I would give you some tips to help you achieve weight loss in your dogs.

You have to reduce your dogs calorie intake and increase his  activity level (and his caloric burn).

Treats are typically the single biggest source of excess calories that most overweight dogs consume on a daily basis. You should reduce it and probably reduce the number of times you feed.

Don't feed your pet table scraps

Decrease the quantity of food you are feeding your dog or, if necessary, change the type of food you are feeding them if they contain too much calories. Feeding a higher protein and lower carbohydrate diet can help with achieving weight loss.

Increase the number of calories your dog burns each day. Increase your dogs level of daily exercise - start slow and gradually increase.

You can take them for longer or more frequent walks, or you can throw a ball for them more frequently for them to chase.  

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How to become a Dog show Judge

In order to become a dog Judge you have to learn first rudiments.

Who is a dog judge and what's the career like?

A dog judge is also known as a dog show judge and refers to one that is qualified to access and evaluate dogs at shows or a conformation show. These shows can have various judges especially when its a big show but in smaller shows there can just be a single judge.

A judge must be vast and the judgment must not be subjective preference rather it has to be done based on breed standards which unfortunately were created more than a 100 years ago and clearly obsolete or outdated.

These judges have to be extremely familiar with a particular breed standard or a number of breed standards. You must be able to properly analyse the standard of the dog to ascertain his or her qualities. Sometimes judges can put their hands on the dogs to feel their bones and other structures looking for faults.

Dogs deserve better than this outdated breed standard. Time have changed  environment and climate which all affects dogs is changing so why would the standard remain after more than a 100 years? Take for example the American Kennel Club (AKC) values arbitrary physical traits over health and well-being and that is why the AKC recognise the slant back gsd (Show line) than the straight back (Working line).

Take a look at the dachshunds again. They have a very long spine and short legs that makes them susceptible to extreme pains

What about the Great Danes that are bred for long necks and large heads and often develop wobbler syndrome and sometimes end up paralysed.

Cavalier King Charles spaniels is another breed who suffer from syringomyelia. Sometimes they scream in agony because their brains are too large for their unnaturally flattened skulls.

Finally what about the English bulldogs, who are bred to have flat faces. They labour to fetch objects, they find it difficult breathing, they even suffer to whelp and end up in C section 90% of the time. These dogs and others such as pugs, French bulldogs, lhasa Apso suffer what is known as brachycephalic airway syndrome

To ensure that these breed standard traits remain in a dog’s bloodline, breeders make mothers to mate with sons and daughters with fathers (in breeding). The consequences have been dire. Inbreeding increases the likelihood that recessive genes will be passed down to puppies, resulting in a host of serious congenital defects including epilepsy, hypothyroidism and elbow dysplasia, a disease that can cause lameness and arthritis. Don't you think these breed standards should be changed? In another article i would talk about this in-depth.

To become a judge you have to get licensed. You  can get it in two ways which is either through a kennel club or a particular breed association. As a judge you are expected to study.

You could apply to be a single breed judge or multiple breed judge. When you are eventually granted to judge multiple breed then you are known as a group judge.

There is also another category of judge known as an All rounder. This is a judge granted license to judge all recognised breeds.

Let me give you a general overview of what it takes to be a judge.

1. You must apply for  eligibility requirement. By age you must be at least 20 and above with most organisations.

2. Most organisation would require you to be a member of a kennel club or other organisations for some time.

3. Some organisation would require you to have lived in that countries for a particular number of years

4. Some organisation would usually require that you have a minimum number of years as a breeder (between 5 and 10 years) and it must be documented

5. You must have experience with pedigree and pure breed dogs, your experience must be in handling, breeding etc

6. As an applicant you must have a mentor that's already a judge with most organizations

7. An applicant must have a sound background in the breed or breeds for which the applicant is

applying, and documented experience in the sport, (breeding, showing, club membership, official positions, etc.).

8. As a potential judge you must be physically and mentally fit. You must have Ring Stewarding.

9. An applicant must pass a written and oral examination

The license to be a judge specifies the different breeds over which the judge is qualified to officiate or judge and like i said earlier you can be licensed as a single breed judge or multiple breed judge.

Usually Judges are most commonly licensed specifically to the registry with which they are affiliated to but some registries can choose to recognize licensed judges from other renowned registries and organizations.

Sometimes when judges are skilled enough they can be called upon by organisations of other countries to judge.

 

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British Bull Dog and their Breed Standard requirements

Talking about breed standards it is important to note that these standards have been created hundreds of years ago and Clubs like the American Kennel Club and United Kennel club do claim to preserve the breed standards of bulldog but these standards are old and outdated.

The purpose of breed standards a according to them is to
1. Give and educate breeders on a specific set of guidelines to adopt while breeding to enable them maintain quality

2. To enable judges during dog shows trace faults

3. To enable breeders avoid detrimental traits in the health and welfare of the dog.

Before we take a look at the standards lets look at a brief history.

The British bulldog was bred for bull-baiting which was officially banned in England the year 1835. After the cruel sports was banned the bulldog started to evolve and became shorter and thicker. These dogs have lots of wrinkles, muzzle and they are of the Mastiff origin. Originally these dog were first breed to make easy the work of butchers. These dogs pinned down bulls while the butcher would slaughter them. They had a lot of weight and energy to carry out these tasks. After that they started using them for bull baiting sports which was cruel. Sometimes later they started using these dogs for fighting competition with other animals including dogs and their fellow Bulldogs. Right now these cruel sports are outlawed and they are used as companions because of their loving, calm and obedient temperament. They are also used in shows.

These dogs have a long association with British culture and they're them as a national icon. They symbolise determination.

In the US they are the fourth most popular dog  breed. The Labrador Retriever is number one. They are hefty and muscular with a very wrinkled face and their nose are pushed in which is an obvious fault.
The AkC and Ukc  oversee breeding records of these dogs as earlier mentioned.

They live for about 8-12 years.

The males weigh 50–55 lb (23–25 kg) while the females weigh 40–50 lb (18–23 kg)

They come in Brindle, solid white, red, fawn or yellow colours and their litter size  ranges from 3-7 years.

What are their physical Traits?

These dogs are medium sized dogs with a very thick body and short coat. Their body is thick and heavy. They are lager around the shoulders than the hind regions. This is one standard that makes most males unable to mount the females during breeding and they end up doing Artificial Insemination. These attributes also make them unable to whelp and end up in C Section.
When you view them from above they have a pear shape.

Their heads is very large and not proportionate to their body. This is also a factor that make them unable to whelp naturally because the head cannot fit into the birth canal of the bitch. They are powerful, athletic and stable in nature.
 
The physical characteristics is a little bit different for the females when compared to the males. Judges take note of that during shows.

Behavioral Characteristics

These dogs are kind, calm, confident, courageous and resolute.

Breed standard of the head

These dogs have a very massive head that is not proportionate to their body.
The head is broad and squared. The head appears high and moderately short from the occiput to the point of the nose. The forehead is flat, never rounded or domed; and never too prominent nor overhanging the face. Thus flat head makes these dogs have breathing issue. Among all breeds the British bulldog have the highest number of death while in flight

They have a well-defined temple (frontal bones) are broad, square and high, causing a deep furrow that extends from the stop to the middle of the skull. The stop is a deep, wide indentation between the eyes. They have well-rounded cheeks that protrude sideways and outward beyond the eyes.

Breed standard of the Skull

The skull is large in circumference, and appears high from the corner of the lower jaw to the apex of the skull.

The muzzle

They have a short face and  is measured from the front of the cheekbone to the tip of the nose. The muzzle is turned slightly upward and is very deep from the corner of the eye to the corner of the mouth. Tbia short fave makes them have breathing issues just like Pugs, Lhasa Apso etc

They have a very broad jaw that's also squared.

A serious fault they have in the face is the wry mouth and short face.

Breed standard of the Teeth.

Their teeth's are large strong and white as you would expect. They have a serious fault in their teeth which needs to be eliminated. Their teeth and tongues are showing even when their mouth is closed.

Breed standard of the eyes

They have a very dark eyes which are round and moderate in size.

When they look forward directly directly, the lids cover the white of the eyeball.
When viewed from the front, the eyes are situated low down in the skull well away from the ears. They are set in the front of the head and are wide apart but with their outer corners within the outline of the cheek, when viewed from the front. The eyes and the stop are set in the same straight line. Their is a visible haw white part of the eyes that shows and the excessive amount of loosed skin around the eyes needs to be eliminated as it can cause infection

Breed standard of the nose.

They have a large nose that's broad and black. Its tip is set back deeply between the eyes. The wide, large nostrils are open. Nose roll does not protrude over the nostrils, constricting breathing. These nose structure is a serious fault that needs to be eliminated. It prevents them from breathing properly.

Breed standard of the ears.

The front inner edge of each ear joins the outline of the skull at the top back corner of the skull, placing them wide apart and well away from the eyes.

Breed standard of the neck

They have a short thick neck that is deep, strong, and well-arched. The skin is moderately loose, thick and wrinkled, forming a dewlap on each side from the lower jaw to the chest.

Breed standard of the forequarters

The shoulders are very broad and muscular. They are widespread providing stability and great power.

Breed standard of the body

The body should be moderately short and well knit, with stout limbs, well-muscled, and in hard condition, with no tendency toward obesity. The brisket and body are very capacious, and the chest is very deep and well let down between the front legs. Forechest is prominent. The body is well ribbed up behind the forelegs, and the ribs are well rounded. The back is short and strong, wide behind the shoulders and comparatively narrower at the loin. The topline is a distinguishing characteristic of this breed.

There is a slight fall off behind the shoulders to the beginning of the back, which is the lowest part of the entire topline. It then rises to the loin, which is higher than the shoulders. The croup then curves downward to the set on of the tail, creating the arch that is distinctive to the breed. The belly is tucked up. When viewed from above, the English Bulldog’s outline should resemble a pear shape.

Breed standard of the tail

The short tail is set low, and has a thick root, a decided downward carriage and a fine tip. It may be straight or "screwed," but never curved or curly. A straight tail is cylindrical and is tapered uniformly. A screw tail has well-defined bends or kinks that may be abrupt or even knotty, but no portion of the tail may be elevated above the base or root. Absent, inverted or extremely tight tails should be heavily penalized.

Bulldogs have very small nasal cavities which make them have great difficulty keeping their bodies cool or regulating their body temperature.

They are sensitive to heat and cannot strive in temperate regions.

They need a lot of shade and water, and must be kept out of standing heat or direct sunlight.

Their houses needs to be air conditioned and well ventilated.

The breed standard of these dogs makes them obviously deformed and its appealing that the clubs in charge of these dogs have not done anything to change some of the outdated standard or requirements

Bulldogs are brachycephalic and all of them suffer of this situation. Its health problem caused by the abnormally short face which is unfortunately required of the breed.

Most times they can't even run around without gasping for breath. Many struggle to breathe in hot or humid weather and needs to be kept in air conditioned houses

English Bulldogs are also deformed orthopedically. Their abnormal build is a structural defect called chondrodysplasia, which stunts their leg growth and lengthens their back, which predisposes them to bone and joint problems. And like i said earlier this physical defects makes the males unable to mount the female and they end up in Artificial insemination.

The English Bulldog has the highest incidence of hip dysplasia (72%) of all breeds. Elbow dysplasia is nearly as bad, with 35% dysplastic. Luxating patella (loose knees) occurs at a 4% rate. And intervertebral disk disease.

Bulldogs are prone to chronic allergies that cause itchy skin and scratching that can lead to skin infections (hot spots). The folds and wrinkles in their skin trap dirt and moisture, leading to bacterial and yeast infections. As an owner you have to regularly clean the folds so they wont contact infections.

Hereditary heart diseases is common with these dogs, multiple eye diseases, urinary diseases, thyroid disease, tumors and cancers.

Unfortunately, health testing doesn't change the underlying abnormal structure of the breed, which is what causes so many of the health problems in bulldogs.

These health problems can be prevented if these outdated breed standards can be changed.

Do the English Bulldogs and other breeds deserve these health challenges as a result of these outdated breed standard that was created over a hundred years ago? The answer is No

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Training your Puppy on taking treats gently, stop Nipping and biting.

Some puppies do not know how to take treats gently and maybe bite while taking items from your hands. The danger in working on this is if your dog doesn't get the treat right away, she may get more frustrated and grab harder for it the next time.

If you use the technique  described, to avoid getting your dog frustrated you will want to start with feeding him the treat for all but the most rough grabs (say one in 5) and then gradually start getting pickier as he improves.

This will go faster if you feed him kibble by hand (no tricks required) using the following technique:

Get his food bowl with kibble in it. Hold out a piece of kibble in a way that you can keep it if he bites down hard. If he mouths hard say "ouch" and put the kibble back in the bowl and put the bowl up for a minute or two. Repeat Repeat Repeat. Make sure you are not doing the ouch routine for more than 1 in 5 times of offering the kibble. Begin to get more and more sensitive (making sure that e gets the treat 4 out of 5 times still). Once he is doing great for this, try working on it in other contexts.

While you are working on this with his food bowl, I suggest that for training and other times you feed treats, deliver the treat in a way that will just avoid the possibility of him mouthing you hard (toss it perhaps) until you are getting progress with his meal.

Biting and Nipping

You Want to teach your puppy to stop biting you? Puppies nip to play, to get attention and because they are teething. The good news is that almost puppies grow out of nipping naturally. It is very important to avoid getting frustrated and resorting to punishments / corrections which could damage your relationship down the road.

It is also important to teach your puppy how delicate human skin is, so let him experiment a bit and to give him feedback (say "yipe!" and remove your attention) when your puppy bites too hard. If you get more and more sensitive to nips he will soon find that humans are very sensitive and respond accordingly with her teeth.

Puppy nipping is a very easy to stop because we KNOW what the pup wants - to play and chew! So, give him lots of available chew toys and then whenever he nips, walk away from him and ignore him (if he follows nipping at your heels you need to use a tie back, time out or gate). And when he's gentle stay and play. Don't forget: This too will pass!

PREVENT

Always have a toy in your hand to play with your puppy so he can make a correct choice (unless you are doing the practice in #2).Exercise your puppy to get rid of excess energy (1 hour per day).Make sure your puppy is getting enough rest (12 hours per day).Have lots of great chew toys around to get him through teething (frozen wet rags, frozen raw marrow bones).

Don't leave kids and dogs unattended. Teach kids not to run and scream from nipping puppies but to quietly walk away or stop moving. Use a tie-back (only under supervision), gate or time-out area more frequently as a management tool if the above is not working. Sometimes bitter spray on clothing can help ease nipping at clothing and shoes.

TEACH

Tie your puppy back or put him in a room with a gate that you can quickly climb over or open. Begin playing with him. Praise him for being gentle, but when he nips say "yipe" (like a puppy would) and quickly walk away. Wait 1 minute. Return and give him another try.

Practice in 2-3 minute sessions with each family member taking a turn.The tie-back method also works well for other attention getting behaviors such as jumping up, barking and humping.

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How To Teach Your Dog to look and to Turn.  

In this article we shall talking about how to teach your dog to look and to turn.

"Look" is a useful command for helping your dog acclimate to a new situation or environment.

Is your dog easily distracted? Does he spend your entire walk lunging at squirrels and barking at people? Is he unable to to pass a brightly colored umbrella or a playing child without wanting to investigate?

If your dog’s curiosity is slowing down your walks, there’s a solution. Training your dog to “look” on command can help keep him focused on where he’s going without missing any of the excitement that’s happening around him.

Training your dog to look in the direction of something novel, interesting or possibly even slightly unnerving may sound nonsensical. Why draw your dog’s attention to something that may excite or even upset him? When you teach your dog to “look,” you also train him to return his attention to you. This can help to make novel situations more predictable and give your dog a way to focus and avoid overreacting to something that might be scary or stressful — or just super exciting — for him.

Look Over There!

Hold an object your dog will be interested in — like a chew toy or a ball — behind your back, where your dog cannot see it. A toy with a squeaker or rattle can be helpful for catching your dog’s attention. You can also wiggle or wave the toy gently to catch his eye.

Ask your dog to look at you; once he is making eye contact, pull the hidden item out and hold it out to your side, away from where your dog is looking. Immediately mark and reward any glance or movement your dog makes in the direction of the object.

When you reward him, give the treat in such a way that your dog has to turn back toward you (and away from the exciting toy) to get his reward. To do this, hold the treat directly in front of your legs, at the level of the dog’s nose. This helps to reinforce the idea of looking at something and then shifting attention back to you, which is exactly what you’re trying to teach him.


Next, add a verbal cue “look” to the behavior. Say the word just as your dog starts to turn his head in the direction of the item. You can also watch your dog’s body language and note when he’s getting ready to turn toward the object. Eventually, you want to be able to use the “look” cue to point out interesting things before your dog sees them for himself.

Teach your dog to turn around

To teach your dog how to turn on command, start by holding a lure like a treat or a toy near his nose.

It's worthwhile to teach him some practical tricks, like how to turn on command. "Turn" can be useful in a variety of situations everything from changing direction on a walk to steering clear of a dangerous or problematic situation.

Once your dog can heel and has been taught to consistently walk on either your right or left side, you can introduce “turn.”

Teach your dog to turn

To encourage your dog to turn, use a favorite treat or toy as a lure. Hold the lure down low near your dog’s nose on the side the dog’s walking on. If your dog is tall enough, you can hold the lure in your hand. For smaller dogs, a spreadable soft treat on the end of a long serving spoon will enable you to walk upright and still hold the lure near your dog’s nose.

Introduce the idea of the turn by giving a verbal cue “turn” and immediately move the lure in the direction you want the dog to go. Simultaneously, move your own body into the turn to keep the dog in a consistent location next to your side. This teaches your dog to follow your lead and turn in the same direction as you do.

During initial training, treat your dog for each small increment of the turn. As your dog starts to understand what you are asking him to do, increase the distance between treats, eventually rewarding him only when he has made the full turn.

Keep in mind that a left turn, a right turn and a 180-degree turn will need to be practiced separately, as the logistics of each will vary. For instance, if you are turning left with a dog who heels on the left, use the lure to guide your dog to pivot in place as you move around him to make the turn. If you are turning right with a dog who heels left, you will need to reverse this process: While you pivot in place, use the lure to lead your dog through the turn.

Fade the lure, add distractions

As your dog begins to master the turn, work on fading the lure. Give the signal  “turn” and reward any sign of the dog moving with you. Once your dog responds to the command and turns, reward him with a treat from your pocket or a treat pouch. The goal is for your dog to synchronize his movement to yours when he hears the verbal cue.

Start by training in a low-distraction area, like your living room. As your dog begins to get the hang of the turn, move to more distraction-filled areas like your yard or the sidewalk in front of your home. Eventually you can start to practice the “turn” command on walks through the neighborhood. Continue to praise your dog and to reinforce occasionally with treats this helps teach your dog to respond reliably to the cue, because he never knows when he may get a treat.

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Benefits of playing with your dog

Physical exercise is good for your dogs health, it keeps his appetite up, helps promote healthy hearth, joints, mental stability etc

We all know that physical exercise is important for our dogs, but we often overlook the importance of mental exercise. Interactive games like tug or fetch might seem like a simple way to keep your dog busy, but they also provide a lot of mental stimulation for your dog.

Since games rely on some basic rules such as “you need to bring the frisbee back if you want to keep playing” they give your dog a chance to make their own decisions and help them build focus. Adding in a few quick games to your dogs routine is a way to ensure your dog gets a nice mental workout each day.

It’s Good Physical Exercise For You & Your Dog

Dogs require regular exercise, and using play is one of the funnest ways to make sure your dog has a chance to release all that pent up energy. And since playing with your dog requires you to get involved it means both of you will be getting in more physical activity.

And when it comes to playing with your dog for physical exercise don’t worry; I’m not suggesting a 3 hour marathon game of tug of war. Just a couple of extra 5 – 10 minute sessions of play can make a huge difference. Games like frisbee or playing with a flirt pole are physically demanding, so if you add those into your regular exercise routine (which includes the daily walk) you can make sure your dog is getting plenty of exercise each day.

Play is a Fun Way to Relieve Stress

Playing with your dog is fun, and as far as stress reliever’s go it’s a really simple way to improve both you and your dog’s overall mood. Spending time with your dog can have a calming effect, and some studies have found that it can help alleviate symptoms of anxiety and depression. Adding in a couple of quick 5 minute play sessions with your dog each day can have a big effect on both you and your dog’s overall mood.

Playing With Your Dog Strengthens Your Bond

One of the greatest things about playing with your dog is how much it strengthens your bond. Spending quality time with your dog is one of the best ways to strengthen that bond, and when it comes to dogs play time is one of their favorite ways to pass the time. You’re not just providing them with fun when you engage them in play; you’re giving them a routine and reinforcing the idea that you are the bringer of all things fun and that goes a long way when it comes to speeding up the bonding process.

Play Can Decrease Problem Behaviors in Dogs

Dogs who engage in regular play are less likely to develop problem behaviors such as excessive barking and chewing. The reason being is that dogs get bored, and when your dog gets bored chances are they’ll find their own ways to entertain themselves, and that boredom is what leads to things like chewed up shoes.

When you regularly play with your dog you’re keeping them busy and engaged, reducing the chance that they’ll go off on their own to find their own entertainment.

It Can Improve Your Social Life

And last but not least playing with your dog can improve your social life. Whether it’s going to the park to play a game of fetch or taking your dog to the neighborhood playground, chances are you and your dog will meet some new people along the way.

Your dog will benefit from brushing up on their social skills, and so will you. Being a pet owner was the third most common way that people said they met people in their neighborhoods, and that pet owners were 60% more likely to get to know people in their neighborhood that they didn’t know before.

What Are Your Dog’s Favorite Games?

What games does your dog enjoy most? Do you carve out time each day for a couple of quick play sessions? Does your dog seem more relaxed after play? You should be able to figure out what your dog love most and always make him happy and stimulated.

 

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Clicker Training

If you are an ardent reader of dog's training methods, you’ve Mabee heard of the clicker method in dogs training. 

The clicker method is the association of positive feeling with the sound of a clicker. 

It makes use of classical conditioning , Pavlov’s method associating tasty treats with the sound of a clicker.

 

Importantly there's a right way to let your dog associate the clicker with something positive ;

 

1)

Go to sit or stand by your dog.
 

2)

Make a click sound either with a clicker or with your mouth or with your fingers

 

3)

Immediately give your dog a tasty treat every time you make the specific clicker sound(you must be very consistent and specific with the sound, so pick a sound and stick to it.)
 

4)

Do this several times everyday for 7 days, until you are sure you dog gets excited and salivate everytime you make the clicker sound, because she would be anticipating a tasty treat.
 

5)

You have to repeat this clicker sounds at unexpected times, situation and places, so that your dog understands that the clicker sound means the same positive thing anytime anywhere and anyhow.

 

 

What's the importance of clicker sound training ?

 

• You can instantly reward your dog for good behavior anytime they do something you want them to do. Or anytime they do as they are instructed. It's not all the time you will have a treat handy anytime your dog does something good.
  
  •

You can reward your dog from a distance, where giving treats isn't feasible. Example for working dogs, that do agility training. You cannot give your dog a treat for every hurdle they jump while running when you signal for a jump 🤷🏾‍♂... But you can instantly click reward them for every jump they get right 😉👍🏾 without having to stop the agility training to reward with a treat.

 

Note: It's important that you keep reinforcing the classical conditioning of the clicker, so that the dog keeps associating the click with something positive, anytime you are free with your dog. You do this by making the clicker sound and giving treats several times during the day. That way, the clicker will retain it's positive meaning to the dog.
 

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