Sep 16, 2019 · 2 min read

Care for your Dogs teeth

Are you unable to hug your dog because he has a bad breath? Does your dog also droll while eaten his kibble? Then it could mean your dog has a dental disease. Dental disease rarely occur and when it does it happens mostly to dogs above 3 years.

Dental diseases, including include halitosis (bad breath) and gingivitis (gum disease) and they are caused by tartar accumulation. All dogs can develop dental tartar, but small breed dogs are particularly predisposed. Be sure to inspect your dogs teeth and gums on a regular basis just as you do with his or her skin and haircoat.

Here’s the key to getting a good look. don’t try to pry your dogs jaws open lest u would engage in a wrestling match. Rather do it with the mouth remaining closed, simply pull those flabby lips up, down, and then back (as if he is smiling) to get a good view of the gums and teeth. Look for tartar accumulation (brown colored material that’s adhered to the teeth) redness or swelling of the gums, and broken or loose teeth.

If your dog does develop significant tartar and gingivitis, he’ll need a thorough dental cleaning. Should such significant abnormalities be found, your vet will discuss antibiotic therapy and the pros and cons of removing the affected teeth versus a root canal procedure. The best way to prevent tartar buildup is to brush your dog's teeth at least twice a month.
What else to do aside from brushing? There are some dental chews, additives you can add to your dog's water. They are meant for the health of teeth and gums. There is also some dry food specially formulated that can help prevent tartar buildup like Purina. However, nothing beats regular brushing. Part of ur dog's annual physical examination performed by your vet should include careful inspection of the teeth and gums. Early identification and treatment of dental disease go a long way in preventing serious consequences.

Home Made Feed preparation for Dogs

Dogs require good and balanced nutrition to thrive. Its helps them for good bone formation, brain development, skin, and fur, good immune, growth, etc The basic requirements are adequate water, fat, carbohydrates, proteins, mineral’s and vitamins, fats, etc. Feeding your dog an appropriate amount of a well-balanced diet is vital to its overall health and well-being. We have taken our time to make research on how to make a home meal diet that meets their nutritional requirements with expert advice from our nutritionist. Items. Millet, sorghum, rice, groundnut, soya beans, chicken flavor, honey, vegetables, oil ( olive oil, groundnut oil, palm oil), sugar, smoked fish. Optional items: Booster premix, sodium, phosphorus and iron (these 3 can be gotten from a feed mill) 1. Millet is high in fiber and protein and rich in B vitamins, (especially niacin, B6 and folic acid), phosphorus, manganese (a trace mineral that acts as an antioxidant), Millet also contains calcium, iron, and zinc. The protein content of millet varies from 5 to 20 percent, with an average of 10 to 12 percent. 2. Sorghum: it has high-complex carbohydrate, and also an excellent source of fiber (primarily insoluble fiber), vitamins B3, B1, and B2, iron, and potassium. 3. Groundnut: It is rich in antioxidants It is a high source of protein, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, zinc, calcium, sodium, etc. And other vitamins 4. Soya beans are an alternative cheap source of protein. Fish( could be crayfish, dried fish, etc) Fish Fish is filled with omega-3 fatty acids and vitamins such as D and B2 (riboflavin). Fish is rich in calcium and phosphorus and a great source of minerals, such as iron, zinc, iodine, magnesium, and potassium. 5. Maize contains Calories, Water, Protein, Carbs, Sugar, Fiber, Fat, Omega-3. 6 Rice contains Sodium, Potassium, Carbohydrate, Dietary fiber, Sugar, Protein, Vitamin C, Calcium, Vitamin D, Vitamin B-6 Magnesium. Preparation: Roast the soya beans and groundnuts to remove the shaft. Then grind together with the other items. Grind the corn and the soya beans first cos they are the hardest Put some cups of water on the fire, and pour some proportion of the items into it and start stirring like ur making pap. For puppies don't make it thick. Let it be watery. But for adolescent and adults, u can make it thick. Add some spoon of milk to it. Add a little palm oil, olive oil and maybe honey. Add a little salt and vegetable. U can get moringa to leave grind it and add. If you have a carrot or other forms of vegetables u can add to. With most dogs, u might introduce the food to them gradually just as you should do when introducing any other new meal. First, two days add 25% of new meal to old meal. Third and fourth day add 50% of new meal to 50% of old meal. 5th and 6th day add 75% of new meal to old meal and then after that you give 100% new meal. On a general note if your dog does not have the appetite to eat you might need to give them multivitamin appetizers to make them hungry. B complex for dogs works fine. Copyright © 2018–2019 DogTree Operating Company, OU. All Rights Reserved.

Dog Training Tools

A Clicker is a tool used to mark or pinpoint the desired behavior with a clicking noise.

Dog training has its own language and its own set of tools. When your trainer suggests that you get your dog a mat or a crate, or that you work with him on a long line, what is he talking about?

With these handy devices, your dog will be well-mannered in no time.

Back clip harness: Harness on which the leash attachment is located over the dog’s back. This type of harness is typically comfortable and easy for a dog to adjust to, but it offers less control over the dog’s movements and can exacerbate pulling.

Cavity toys: See food puzzles.

Clicker: Tool used to mark or pinpoint the desired behavior with a clicking noise. There are a variety of clickers, from the standard box clicker, which makes a sudden, sharp noise, to more muted versions (like a ballpoint pen) for dogs that are more sensitive to sound.

Crate, kennel: Box-like shelter for a dog. Crates come in a variety of designs, including hard plastic, wire and soft-sided. Some crates are designed to fold up for easy storage.

Dog pen: Dog containment area created with fencings, such as exercise or X-pens or baby gates, in a play pen-like style. Dog pens can be used to prevent destructive behavior or to facilitate potty training. A dog run is an example of an outdoor dog pen.

Food puzzle: Toy designed to hold food or chews. The dog removes the food by using his teeth, tongue, paws, and mouth to manipulate the toy. Food puzzles require the dog to work for his food, which provides needed mental and physical stimulation.

Front clip harness: This type of harness has a leash attachment at the center of a dog’s chest. This allows the pet owner to gently control the dog’s movements and can help hinder pulling.

Gate: Portable gate or fence that can be used as a barrier to keep a dog confined to a specific area or away from an off-limits space. These may be marketed as baby gates or dog gates.

Harness: Alternative to a collar. Like a collar, a harness has a hook for the dog’s leash, as well as a place to put his ID tags. Many trainers believe that a harness is gentler than a collar, especially for small dogs or brachycephalic dogs, who can have their airways more easily damaged by a collar.

Head halter: A walking tool. The head halter consists of two parts: a section that fits around the dog’s neck like a collar and an attached piece that fits over the dog’s nose and wraps around his muzzle. The leash attaches under the dog’s chin area.

Leash

A leash is a fixed length of material with a clip at one end, which attaches to a collar or harness, and a handle at the other end for a person to hold. A fixed-length leash is one that does not expand or retract; commonly, a fixed-length leash is 4- to 6-feet long.

Lure: A stimulus that a dog will willingly follow. Treats are the most commonly used lure, but toys are another useful type of lure.

Long-lasting chews: These are chews that require extensive effort on the dog’s part to eat; they take a long time to consume. Dental chews, such as some of those with C.E.T. enzymes to help break down excess plaque, can fall into this category.

Longline: Leash available in a variety of lengths ranging from 8-feet long to upwards of 40-feet long. A longline allows the dog the freedom of being off-leash while preventing him from running away and can be used for training or play.

Mat: Similar in appearance to a cushion or blanket, a dog mat is a designated place to rest. Mat training teaches the dog to go to a place when he is asked, for example, the dog can be taught to go to his mat, rather than begging at the table during a meal. A mat is portable and can offer a dog a familiar place to rest in unfamiliar surroundings, such as the vet’s office or a friend’s home.

Retractable Leash: Leash with a handheld release that allows it to extend and retract with the movement of a dog. The leash can also be locked at the desired length. Though these are commonly used by pet owners, many pet professionals caution against their use, as they can be hazardous for both the pet owner and the dog.

Target stick: A long wand that can expand or retract as needed, with a ball on one end that the dog is trained to touch with a body part, commonly his mouth or nose. Some target sticks have a built-in clicker. A wooden spoon can be used in place of a target stick.

Tightening harness: Harness with a limited tightening feature, either on the back of the chest, where the leash clips on. The harness will tighten to a fixed degree if the dog pulls, and release when the leash is loose. This can offer the pet owner more control over pulling without causing a sharp pain to the dog, as choke or prong collars can do.

Training pouch, treat pouch: Pouch that holds treats and clips to a belt, pocket or waistband or has a fanny pack-style band that wraps around the waist. Larger training pouches can also hold other necessities, such as keys, a cellphone or waste bags.

Treat Stations: Areas around the home where treats are stored to make rewarding good behavior easier. Treat stations provide an alternative to carrying treats all the time. Concealing the treat containers keeps the dog on his best behavior, as he does not know when or where he might be rewarded.

Teaching your Dog to search or find it and Teaching your Dog to Hug

Training a dog requires time and patience but the benefits outweigh your effort. In the article, we shall be talking about the “Find it command” and the “Hug” command.

“Find it” it is a fun game and command to teach your dog that taps into his natural inclination to sniff.

Most dogs are naturally good at following their noses. They can often track everything from a dead mouse in the compound to a sandwich you left unattended to. This ability to nose out interesting smells can be channeled into a constructive skill with some simple training.

“Find it” can be helpful in a variety of situations. A quick game of “find it” can help nervous or timid canines to relax around new people or in unfamiliar situations, like at the vet’s office. “Find it” can be a way to help your dog channel excess energy or calm himself when greeting visitors. And “find it” can provide important mental stimulation by encouraging your dog to work for his meals and treats, which mimics the hunting his feral ancestors would have done.

“Find it” is a simple and fun game to teach your dog. Here’s how to get him sniffing.

Teach your dog to play “find it” by encouraging his natural talent for sniffing things out. A verbal or physical signal of the start of the game can help your dog know when it’s time to put his nose to the ground and go searching for something interesting.

To start, give the signal or cue “find it!” and immediately toss a desirable treat or favorite toy. Start easy, by tossing the treat or toy in a flat, open area. If your dog doesn’t understand what you’re asking, help him out by pointing at the item or walking toward it to draw his attention to it.

When your dog finds the item, reward him with praise and repeat the process. Give the “find it” cue and toss another treat or toy (or reuse the same toy if your dog returns it to you after he finds it).

Once your dog catches on and begins to associate the “find it” cue with retrieving the tossed item, start to increase the difficulty and make the task more challenging. Rather than one treat, toss several. Or rather than tossing a toy, ask your dog to stay while you hide the toy. You can also toss treats or a toy where your dog cannot see it, like behind a piece of furniture, and let him hunt for it.

“Find it” can be utilized to turn your dog’s mealtimes into a form of enrichment and mental stimulation. Scatter his kibble on the kitchen floor or across an outdoor patio or use a food puzzle to serve your dog’s meal. Both of these options require him to work for his food, which is good mental and physical exercise.

“Find it” can also turn playtime into hide-or-seek: Ask your dog to unearth his toy before engaging in a game of fetch or structured tug. “Find it” can also be a useful way to encourage structured greetings or calm interactions with people: Toss a toy and have your dog find it and bring it to your guests.

Teach your dog to hug

A hug can make you and your dog both feel happy and loved.

It can be hard to resist giving a dog yours or someone’s else a hug. If your dog enjoys being physically close to you, a hug can make you both feel happy and loved.

But not all dots loves to hug. For some dogs, a physical embrace may be perceived as an invasion of personal space or even a physical threat, especially when the hug is instigated by a person without the dog’s consent. This can result in a dog who is stressed or scared and can lead to a growl or even a bite.

Training your dog to hug on cue can give him a predictable way to interact with people, which can help him feel less anxious.

There are two types of hugs you can teach your dog to give. The first involves the dog standing up on his hind legs and resting his front paws on your shoulders, mimicking the chest-to-chest hug shared between two people. This option is good for quick greetings and works best with calm dogs who already know how to keep all four paws on the floor.

The second option involves teaching your dog to rest his head (and potentially his entire body) against you in a full doggy embrace. This is a nice option for dogs who like to be close to people and enjoy snuggling.

You can teach your dog whichever version is best for his and your hugging personality. Some dogs will prefer one type of hug over another, while others will enjoy both options.

The standing hug

If your dog is already the type who greets you by placing his paws on you, training a standing hug is as simple as teaching him to associate this natural behavior with a cue. Big dogs can be taught to place their paws on your shoulders while you stand up, but with smaller dogs, you will need to kneel or sit to enable them to reach up and hug you.

One caution, though: If your dog tends to greet people by jumping on them, you will need to deal with that behavior before you teach your dog to hug on command and you may want to skip the hugging altogether.

For spontaneous canine huggers, simply add a verbal cue, like “hug,” to a naturally occurring hug (for example, when you walk in the door at the end of the day). Say the cue as he begins to reach up to hug you, and then reward him with a treat or praise. Alternatively, pat your legs or shoulders to invite your dog to place his paws up; as he does so, say the cue “hug.” Pair the cue with a reward of praise or a treat to help him associate the word with the reward.

With enough repetitions, your dog will begin to associate the cue (“hug”) with the action of hugging you. The next step is to eliminate spontaneous hugs. Once he’s familiar with the “hug” cue, limit rewards strictly to times when your dog hugs in response to the command. If he gives you an unsolicited embrace, stand still or turn away and ignore him. Eventually, he will learn that he is only rewarded with praise or a treat or a return hug when you give the cue first.

Blockchain in Dog Data

This is a brief demonstration on how Blockchain Technology will be implemented in DogData
platform and all records created in Blockchain with unique Hash key generation for each
record so that the records cannot be tampered. Also the records will be displayed with
Graphical User Interface (GUI) in both website and Mobile App. The Blocks will be generated
once the record is created either through website or through mobile app. For getting the
information to store in the Blockchain, we will be using REST API. Rest API is a front end
technology that is implemented to display the records in the mobile app (Dog Registration,
Vaccination Record...etc that is created in the backend). It will just display the skeleton of the
records, so we will be working on the UI part to make it user friendly.

Breed Standards Lhasa Apso vs 2019

The lhasa apso dogs were local to Tibet in China with very long cold seasons and very short hot season. They were found inside monasteries with Lamas serving as a burglary alarm for any intruder that escaped the watch of the external guide dogs the Tibetan mastiff. The monasteries were usually placed on sloppy hills very high above sea level, with low oxygen concentration and extreme cold.

If the lhasa apso needed to survive carrying out their duties as burglary alarm, they needed to evolve the long coat to stay warm during the cold times in Tibet, but shed during the short warm times. They also needed to evolve a deep and lengthy chest with extra pair of ribs to accommodate greater volume of lung tissues to be able to breath in more air. They also needed to be lengthy in stature and closer to the ground, this would ensure their center of gravity was stable on a steep slope. Although the lhasa apso are known to shed slowly and continuously like humans; having extreme weather in Tibet where they originate from, they had to evolve a lengthy hair. Same with all the animals found in Tibet China, they usually come with long coats, and the humans there usually wear very hairy coat to keep themselves warm.

In 1933, the very first lhasa apso arrived in the USA gifted to C Suydam Cutting and it was added as a breed in 1935 into the AKC. Since then, the typical appearance of the lhasa apso brought into the USA has been established as its standard conformation.

Nowadays lhasas apso are found in different areas of the world having different climates, different cultures, different altitudes and different terrain. It has become no longer necessary for them to have very lengthy double coated hair to protect against extreme cold. Places close to the equator such as the tropics have higher temperature which would not be suited for a full length double coated dog like the lhasa apso. It is apparent that this particular conformation that is one of the standards is definitely not ideal for a lhasa apso, as it can cause overheating in such a dog.

Nowadays people who keep lhasa apso do not keep them to be watch dogs so it should no longer be a requirement for lhasa apso to be sturdy. A lot of people who acquire the lhasa apso do not live in high altitude with low oxygen concentration in the atmosphere, therefore a deep chest with greater lung tissue volume isn't required anymore as the oxygen concentration at sea level is sufficient enough for a normal chest. The implication of having a deeper and lengthy chest is the risk of hyperventilation which can cause respiratory alkalosis. Respiratory alkalosis occurs when CO2 is breathe out too fast, causing an imbalance in the acid base homeostasis of the body. It's noteworthy that not everyone live in a sloppy terrain, therefore a lower point of gravity isn't required for a dog living in an area with lower slopes.

Most people who get a lhasa apso do so for companionship now. They need a dog they can place on their laps and relax with. They are hardly ever looking for a burglary alarm to notify them of any intruder. This points clearly shows that sturdiness isn't necessarily needed in a lhasa apso, as our modern society tends to be in the laid back spectrum of physical activity.

Having enlisted the above points, I hope I have been able to convince you of how the current standard conformation of lhasa apso is not necessarily ideal for the modern society.

House Training your Dogs and Submissive Urination

The most important house training rule is to avoid accidents!

To house train a dog we are relying on the fact that dogs are fairly particular about where they "go" and build strong habits. It is very important to prevent accidents, because every time he relieves himself in the house, he is building a preference for this area.

Every time your dog potties inside, blame YOURSELF (but please be forgiving)! Until your dog has learned where to go potty, he should be under constant surveillance (with his leash tied to your belt if possible or on your lap), in his crate, or tethered on a comfy mat (tether should be used only under supervision).

The crate should be just big enough for him to stand up, turn around and lay down in. If your dog is having accidents in the crate, make sure it isn't too big and remove absorbent bedding.

When you are inside and he is out of her crate, keep him tethered to your waist and watch him constantly for sniffing or circling. Take him out immediately when you see this behavior.

Set a timer to go off every hour (this time can be increased as you progress) so that you don't forget to take him out before nature calls. If he doesn't relieve himself when you take him out and it's been a few hours, take him back in for 15 minutes (under your closest supervision or crated) and then try bringing him back out again. If he does "go", wait until he is completely finished before praising, feeding a treat and having a little play time together.

Stick to a strict schedule:

You should take your dog or puppy out many times during the day, especially after eating, playing or sleeping. Feed 2-3 times per day and leave the food down for about 15 minutes per feeding. Your dog can generally "hold it" for its age in months + 1 hr, but no longer than about 8 hours as an adult. The more often you bring your dog outside in the beginning the better because you will minimize the chances for mistakes and give your dog more opportunities for you to reward him for doing what you want. Water can remain down until about 8:00 at night.

Be consistent and keep it simple:

Until he is reliably house trained, bring him to the same spot each time, and leave a bit of his waste there. Use this spot only as a potty area, and not for play. Bring him there on leash and say something like "hurry up" when you see him getting ready. As he goes, say nothing so as not to distract him, but when he finishes praise or click, give him a tasty treat and spend 5 minutes playing outside away from the potty area. If he doesn't go, return to the house, put him in his crate and wait 15 minutes before trying again.

"But, what if he goes in the house?

Hit yourself on the head with a rolled up newspaper! If you see your dog relieving itself in the wrong spot, bring him quickly outside and praise him for finishing there. If you find a mess, clean it very well (without him watching you) using an appropriate cleaner. Another helpful tool once your dog is 90% trained is a dog diaper or male dog wrap. I know this sounds a bit odd, but it can be a really helpful way to prevent messy accidents especially when out visiting with your dog. The dog diaper or male wrap will prevent your dog from soiling the area (and making it more attractive to future accidents) and also is somewhat unpleasant for the dog so it can help to disco.urage accidents. Of course, this is not in itself a solution, but it can be a help.

Training a dog to overcome submissive Urination

The common advice regarding submissive wetting is to ignore your dog by looking away or not approaching him and to hope that he or she grows out of it. There are some other tips which mostly involve managing the problem such as making sure they have pottied recently and to make a point to say hello to your dog on an easy to clean surface. Male wrap (for male dogs) or dog diapers can help to contain the urine and can be especially useful if you are having many guests over.

The traditional advice or ignore, manage and hope usually does work fine. It's true that most dogs do grow out of submissive urination by about one year of age, but, some would not. So, for those adult dogs and if you prefer not to have to wait months and months for your puppy to get over the submissive peeing, read on!

Keep some treats by the door and when you come home feed your dog treats for sitting politely. Once he is able to do that fairly calmly and without peeing, before feeding a treat, you should lean over him just a tiny bit before feeding the treat. The next step after he is able to accomplish that without an accident is to lean and bend towards him before feeding the treat. Continue to progress like that in small steps and over several days until you can bend and pet your dog and even talk in an excited voice while he sits calmly and happily waits for a treat.

If your dog does start to urinate because you have pushed on a little faster than your dog can manage, simply turn away from him. Do not scold as it will only make the problem worse as he tries harder to submit to you in future greetings. Just chalk it up to experience and resolve to go slower next time. If your dog begins to urinate even as you approach, you can start by tossing treats to him from a distance or try standing sideways.

I bet you'll find that this solution is surprisingly easy and effective.

To perfect your dog's dry greetings, you will need to practice feeding him treats for sitting calmly in some different situations such as for greeting different people and in other locations.

This technique works because it gets the dog's mind off of "greeting" and onto something else like sitting for a treat.

Happy training to you and your dog!

Feeding Your Dog During Pregnancy

It very important to make sure your pregnant bitch is getting everything she needs. Eaten right would make sure both babies and mum remain healthy. It would also help her recover after whelping.

Pregnant mothers needs extra boost especially if she's carrying large litter. That is one of the reason why you need to take her for a scan during pregnancy so you can have an estimate of the number of expected litter. In other to meet up her protein and energy demands its best if you feed her Puppy feed.

Feeding her high quality puppy feed would help her during and after pregnancy greatly. Good milk formation, healthy puppies.

Puppy food is richer in key nutrients and provides more energy than adult-formula food. It’s easily digestible also and easier to chew giving her less stress. These are all important things to think about when feeding pregnant bitches.

If you can't afford feeding puppy formulas from start of pregnancy then start around week 6. It will help her to stay strong, and also passes nutrients to her puppies through her milk.

Your dog should be introduced to her new food in stages any way.

Giving her time to adjust would allow her tummy time to adjust. Start to introduce the puppy food into her usual formula, a little bit at a time, over the course of about a week, until the formulas have been completely swapped over. A simple thing to do is to add 25% new meal to 75 old meal for two days, then 50% new meal to 50% old meal another two days. 75% new meal to 25% old meal for another two days and then 100% new meal. This would help her to adjust smoothly and also help her against upset stomach.

Make sure she has easy access to plenty of fresh, clean drinking water so she can stay hydrated, especially if she’s on a dry-food formula during pregnancy.

It’s best to feed your pregnant bitch little and often, especially in the later stages of pregnancy, as a tummy full of puppies will mean she won’t have much room for food.

When feeding pregnant dogs, give them their usual portion sizes for the first few weeks of pregnancy. During these early stages, your bitch may go off her food or experience a little nausea and vomiting, similar to our humans having morning sickness

Start to increase her food intake, bit by bit, from around week five of her pregnancy. Gradually increase the portion size a little more each week, so that by week nine her meal size is about a third more than normal. By this time, mum’s weight should have increased by about 25%, or more if she is expecting a large litter.

Use controlled, measured portions to stop her overeating and becoming obese, as this can cause problems during pregnancy and labour.

Overweight in dogs can cause difficulties during labour such as stress which might in turn make her abandon her puppies after whelping.

It is important not to supplement her feed with calcium and bones during pregnancy. If you must supplement with any other vitamins it has to be prescribed by your vet.

Managing nutrition and the bitch’s bodyweight before, during and after pregnancy is critical to the health of her and her puppies. Malnutrition due to inadequate nutrient intake can lead to abortions or stillbirths. Excessive feeding can lead to obesity increasing the risk of dystocia and prolonged labour as i said earlier.

Importance of feeding during lactation:

Successful lactation requires good nutrition before breeding and throughout pregnancy. During lactation, energy requirements increase and are directly proportional to milk production, which in turn is directly related to the number of feeding puppies.

The food fed to the bitch during lactation should be nutrient dense and highly digestible. After whelping, the bitch’s energy requirements steadily increase and peaks between three to five weeks. This peak is two to four times higher than the bitch’s normal energy requirements. The energy requirements return to maintenance levels at about eight weeks after whelping, corresponding with the timing of weaning.

The requirement for protein increases more than the requirement for energy in the lactating bitch. Therefore the food selected needs to be high in digestible protein.

During pregnancy do not give calcium supplement like i said earlier but during lactation you should. Calcium requirements increase to two to five times normal during peak lactation.

In summary.

Feed your pregnant and nursing bitch a food that is highly digestible and is high in nutrients e.g Puppy feed.

Do not increase her food No food until 42 days of pregnancy.

After week six of gestation food increase by approximately 10% a week is necessary.

During the late stage of pregnancy you should geed her 25% -50% more food

Avoid overfeeding gestating bitches. Excessive weight gain can be detrimental to the bitch and/or the puppies.

Provide several small meals per day during the latter stage of pregnancy, and during lactation. This is particularly important for bitches with large litters.

Always ensure clean, fresh water is available.

Lactating bitches have significantly increased energy and nutrient requirem

Brucellosis In Dogs

There are many risk associated with mating of dogs and as a responsible breeder you shoulder not skip testing.

Let me talk about one of the risk Brucellosis.

This is a dangerous Disease

Brucellosis is a contagious disease caused by the bacterium Brucella canis. It is a major cause of infertility in dogs. It can also be transmitted from dogs to humans.

In dogs, one of the sign of brucellosis is abortion during pregnancy. Other signs include stillbirths, inability to conceive. Sometimes infected dogs may not show any symptoms.

symptoms in humans vary. They range from infertility or serious cardiac or neurological problems. Etc

In dogs, the bacteria tend to attack the reproductive organs but can also migrate to the eyes, spinal column, liver, spleen, and lymph nodes.

The main mode of transmission of brucellosis is by direct contact with infected body fluids, such as semen, vaginal secretions, and urine.

Brucellosis affects female and male dogs in specific ways:

Females: Symptom in the female dog is infertility, with 75 percent of cases resulting in late-term abortion (45–55 days of gestation). And then inability to conceive.

Males: In the early phase of infection, the testes will be enlarged and painful. As the infection progresses, the testes become firm and shrunken. Infected males will become sterile due to testicular damage causing anti-sperm antibody formation.
Infected males may also develop prostatitis (inflammation of the prostate gland), with symptoms of difficulty urinating and defecating.

Non-reproductive symptoms in both sexes can include lethargy, weight loss, and exercise intolerance.

This is a disease is zoonotic disease.(its a dieses capable of spreading from animals to humans)

Before you pay for stud service make sure his tested at least annually, and bitches must be tested prior to each breeding.

Most human cases of brucellosis are caused by consuming unpasteurized dairy products or undercooked meat, it is possible for humans to get this disease from dogs also. People who have had direct contact with an aborted litter can be infected.

If you love your dogs and do not want your efforts to be wasted please act responsibly.

Overweight and Obesity In dogs

Overweight and obesity in dogs.

As a responsible dog owner, you should get a weighing scale at home and make sure to check the weight of ur dog regularly. You should endeavor to know the standard weight of the breed you have so u can tell when it’s overweight and obese

Owners often incorrectly believe their overweight dogs are at a healthy weight.

The formula for reducing weight in dogs is is to decrease the calories consumed and increase inactivity.

Obesity is wen dogs who are at least 30% heavier than what their normal weight should be.
Excess weight on dogs worsen their arthritis and slow them down. Have you seen a baby outrun a full-grown dog? It can have significant financial and medical implications in the event of an emergency or illness as well.

These are some of the health issues that overweight could cause in dogs.

Pancreatitis: Meaning inflammation of the pancreas. this disease often results in decreased energy and appetite, with concurrent vomiting and diarrhea. While pancreatitis can be fairly mild, it can also be much more severe and can be fatal (due to the triggering of a body-wide inflammatory cascade set off by the pancreatic inflammation). We have talked about this in previous articles. Giving your dogs too much fat can also cause pancreatitis.

Heat Stroke: Bcos of both the insulating properties of their excess fat and the additional strain such excess weight puts on their joints, overweight and obese dogs are at increased risk of developing this debilitating, expensive, and (often) fatal emergency condition.

Diabetes: This condition typically requires life-long management and frequent monitoring at your vet, but it also carries with it the additional risks of a severe metabolic emergency condition called diabetic ketoacidosis, recurrent urinary tract infections, etc.

Others: Excessive weight and obesity also predisposes a dog to recurrent skin and urinary tract infections, worsens the pain associated with arthritis and other orthopedic conditions, and increases the likelihood that a dog with a pre-existing respiratory or heart condition will suffer an emergency related to their condition.

How can you tell if your dog is at his ideal body weight?

You can use a combination of your dogs' weight and individual body condition score (BCS) to determine if your dog is overweight, underweight, or right. You should look primarily at the waist, ribs, and any fat deposits on the back or near the base of the tail.

When you view your dog's waist from the back his abdomen should tuck up as it approaches the back legs. When viewed from above, there should be a clear delineation between the back half and the front. The waist and the abdomen should not be on the same level.

You should be able to feel the ribs easily, without having to press through too thick a layer of fat. If there is an excessive fat cover over the ribs, your dog is overweight.

Your dog's back should not be perfectly flat, and there shouldn't be a large fat pad along their sides or near the base of their tail.

Weight loss in dogs is typically far easier than losing weight ourselves. This is bcos we control what they eat. I would give you some tips to help you achieve weight loss in your dogs.

You have to reduce your dogs' calorie intake and increase his activity level (and his caloric burn).

Treats are typically the single biggest source of excess calories that most overweight dogs consume on a daily basis. You should reduce it and probably reduce the number of times you feed.

Don't feed your pet table scraps

Decrease the quantity of food you are feeding your dog or, if necessary, change the type of food you are feeding them if they contain too many calories. Feeding a higher protein and lower carbohydrate diet can help with achieving weight loss.

Increase the number of calories your dog burns each day. Increase your dog's level of daily exercise - start slow and gradually increase.

You can take them for longer or more frequent walks, or you can throw a ball for them more frequently for them to chase.

How To Know When Your Dog is in Pain?

Sometimes our dogs can be in pain but they cant express it to us and am sure none of us can stand to see our beloved pets in pains. Even when our dogs aren’t eaten it affects us emotionally.

Sometimes it can be very difficult to know whether or not ur dog is in pain. But other times its obvious.

There are signs u can look for that might indicate your dog is experiencing pain.

Dogs in pain are more likely to bite so be careful. They could loss appetite as well. Breathing heavy, heart rate, and even appearance can all change when ur dog is experiencing pain.

If you have a good idea of your dog’s “normal” which includes his normal attitude, energy level, gait, appetite, thirst, sleep patterns, and other physical and behavioral patterns then it would help you know when his probably in pains or sick.

When evaluating your dog for potential pain, please take great care to not get yourself (or anyone helping u) bitten. Don’t allow family members and friends go close to him during such times. Even if ur dog would never normally bite anyone, the mere fact that ur evaluating your dog for pain indicates that this may not be a normal time.

Dogs in pain are more likely to bite. This is true even with their owners and other people they know. And it happens more when a person touches or moves the painful area. So once u observe the area of pains avoid touching such spots.

Breathing Changes:
Dogs experiencing pain may have a faster and more shallow breathing pattern than normal. They may also pant.

Heart and Pulse Changes:
Dogs in pain will often have an increased heart/pulse rate. The rate often noticeably speeds up when the painful area is touched or moved.
U can learn how to measure your dogs heart rate at home. Contact a technician to teach u.

Posture Changes:
Dogs who are in pain may assume a very rigid stance, while others may assume the “prayer position” with their front legs on the ground, their butt up in the air, and a stretch throughout their abdomen. Some dogs in pain will lie around more, while others may experience difficulty laying down.

It all depends on the type, location, and severity of the pain.

Eye Changes:
The eyes can be great indicators of pain in dogs. They change both for eye pain itself and for pain elsewhere in the body. Often pain elsewhere in the body will result in larger (dilated) pupils, while pain in the eye(s) can result in either larger or smaller (constricted) pupils.

If their eyes are in pain, the affected eye(s) may also appear bloodshot.

Food and Water Changes:
Dogs in pain often eat and drink less than normal. When they do eat and drink, if the cause of their pain is their teeth or some other part of the mouth, they may drop food and/or water from their mouth.

Energy Level Changes:
Most dogs in pain will have a general decrease in their activity level. This often shows as a dog who sleeps more. It may also manifest as a dog who simply runs and/or jumps less than normal.

Mobility Changes:
Dogs in pain often move around less. However, depending on what hurts, they may still move around the same amount, but do so differently (i.e. with a limp, or more slowly when going up or down the stairs, etc.)

Pooing Changes:
Dogs who have back pain, for any reason, may have difficulty with the posture needed to defecate. So they may struggle to do that.

Body Contour Changes:
If u observe swellings, be they on your dog’s legs, body, or face, could be an indication of a painful condition, such as infection, inflammation or others.

It’s important to speak with or see your vet any time ur dog is in pain, or if u think they may be.

For dogs suffering from arthritis fish oil which has anti inflammatory properties can help.

How To Know When Your Dog is in Pain.